James_03

No it won't damage it. Neither will is stop it from running, make sure your not 180 out on the crank if you have recently replaced the belt or something. Sounds more like a spark problem to me but.

^^ Yeah I agree, sounds more like something in the interior which is virating at that particular rpm. Get someone to move around the inside of the car while you hold it there, and try to isolate exactly where it's coming from.

No, you need to do what I did and run adapters. 33/34 are zirconia sensors, 32 is titania only. Some people think you can use zirc's for the 32 and get away with it, but there are differences. My mate made me adapters on a lathe, but I have seen them before on other dumps. Go to an exhaust shop and see what they can do.

I think you meant to go here: www.calaisturbo.com.au Honest mistake.

Hi flow the standard. Learn how to spell while your at it.

Go the 20 hey, god damn lol.

The 100mm drag just jap units don't fit without quite a bit of modification. None of the factory inlet/outlet pipes line up, the lower mounts don't line up, and you need to hack the rad support away. Go an ARC like Beer Baron mentioned if you need to upgrade at all.

A bore scope is an optical device that you put down the spark plug hole to inspect the bore with, sort of like a camera. There expensive and probably not something you buy for a one off excercise. You may be able to borrow one but. Lay off on the torque next time you put them in.

What is it running off then the internal or external wastegate? I am guessing the external gate, which is pretty useless if your running factory ECU still. The easy solution is simply run your vac line to the internal and leave the external disconnected. This will more than likely fix your boost cut issue as well. You should be running 7~10psi to be safe but can go to 14. Was it previously an auto? What gear are you sitting in that's pretty crucial info. For the cooling look at slimline thermo's, that's what a mate runs in his rb25/180. Just 2 of those without a shroud works fine.

Hi All, I have my HKS EVC 4 boost controller for sale from my GTR. It has boost scramble, overboost warning, auto learn etc. Comes with loom, controller and solenoid. I bought it direct from Japan, has basically sat in the car whilst it has been off the road. There $300+ on ebay. Asking $200 pickup welcome from Brisbane 4118. Cheers.

See you still pulled 100psi on cyl 5, so it won't be as easy as spotting half a ring missing. Yes they probably look fine, but pull the rings from no 5 piston and check them in bore 5, chances are it will be out of spec. I didn't read the entire thread but did you do a leak down as well when it was still together? Also consider a Bosch 023 instead of an 040 if your going intank. The 023 is pretty much an intank version of the 044.

OK cool cheers for that.

Hey guys, Done a bit of a search but most info seems to be related to MLS gaskets and hylomar. When replacing standard rb26dett head gasket, is it good practice to use hylomar or not really required? I am helping a mate on the weekend replace his, I personally think as long as both surfaces are true and clean, it's not required. I haven't actually ever done a standard HG, just ripped them off lol. Thoughts? Cheers.

Clear your inbox when you get a chance Roy

Do your comp test again and tell us what it gets per cylinder. Can't possibly have good comp with that much blow by, unless something like the vvt drain has been plumbed into the inlet or something.

Whats getting it on the dyno going to do? You should be running them at the factory boost level until you replace them, or as others have mentioned 1bar max. Just because others get away with 17-18 doesn't mean you will. It's all too tempting to wind them up without doing the hard work first, but you pay for it dearly in the end.

You mean oil... I wouldn't run it but that's me.

Yeah I am just about to drop in my new motor which is a 26/30 9:1 with -5's. I can't answer the question directly but. I won't have any idea on response until I get it out to Lakeside for a run. But as Ash has mentioned -5's would probably be your best bet, will net the power and response your chasing. That's why I chose them anyway, I am expecting them to be pretty strong at around 3000, maybe a bit earlier if I muck around with the cam gears. The cheap alternative is to find a track with more straights.

Basically the information regarding wire 49 and 18 is correct and relevant, because it's a VL but you will be looking at a slightly different body loom/wire colour scheme as you mention. From memory 49 is IGN and 18 earths out via the ECU to trigger the fuel pump relay. Find the existing VL fuel relay in the car, then look at the diagram on the top of the relay to find the trigger, the thin gauge wires are generally your trigger. Using the trigger wires, wire one side to pinout 49 and the other side to pinout 18. Then establish if the pump needs 12v or ground in order to run with the IGN on, then wire relay accordingly. The R31 pumps get 12v on IGN, then ground out via the relay, some pumps are the opposite depending on the vehicle in question. If you have done all of the above, go back with a multimeter and re-check what your getting on pin 49, that is usually the culprit. Make sure your ECU grounds are bolted down as well.

"Hi Flo" turbo's are not standard, and he was making a point about you not posting the specs on the motor, he wasn't really asking if you had nos. Let me guess standard ECU? Cmon yall know it will be..

Don't think that getting a second hand rb26 long nose crank is the best solution, because IMO it's not. Often times on a second hand crank you will see where the oil pump drive has rounded away on the edges of the flat even on the long nose. A collar with international shipping will be under $100AU easily, and then you know the drive is 100% OK after fitting.

Red top NICS then no, last of the red top ECCS series then yes.

Basically for a low static CR you want: 1. Head that can flow (ie porting, valves etc which generally = $$) 2. Turbo/s to support low CR (Lower the CR, more boost to make good power) If it's a standard head etc, it will just be a pig of a motor at 7:1. My personal pref would be to raise it, that means new slugs if you want to do it properly. You can't really go anymore off a 1mm HG, and shaving the head is a bit dodge, not too mention it still may not net the required CR. CP do pistons now to suit the combo with 26 head, that's what I would be doing.

bump.

I just can't see how a reputable workshop would do something like this. You say that it was someone there that "might not even work there" that cooled the plugs off, why was he even touching them in the first place? I personally wouldn't name the workshop if I were you, because chances are there is a different story to this. It's just somewhat un-clear as to who actually did this to the plugs, and then how it came about that you were fitting the plugs to the car and not them. If this was common practice for them, then this would have blown up in there face long before you came along, know what I mean?