James_03

Thanks mate. Yeah they cost me 2k back when I bought them off another guy on here. You normally see the rips off by Starcorp. Ill try and find a pic of them on my gtr for everyone.

Hey guys, I have a set of 18" Impul rims for sale. They are 5x100PCD but I had them on my gtr with 5x114.3 conversion spacers, I will include the spacers with sale which are brand new. Rims are 10" all round and running Falken 255 ZR18 rubber on all 4. Tread is still good on all of them, probably 60% ish. They sat perfect on a r32 gtr with the spacers. Location is Brisbane. PM me for further info. Here is a pic of some 17" on another car, will have pics up shortly but they are exactly the same. Price is $700.

Im running a setrab 30 row just infront of the rad with earls oil filter/block adapter and pirtek lines I had made up. Bit of a random setup but does the job. One thing I learnt but, try to steer clear of cheaper kits that use a barb and hose clamp for the end oil line fittings, proper crimped lines are best.

Yeah I am running the oil/water ebay lines listed there on my rb30dett now, quality is actually decent for the price. Bending the stock lines up for a rb30dett and keeping the shape is painful, hence I went this way. Also as per ^^ removing the turbos now is so much easier. The extra length works on a rb30dett if you have one and are thinking about these.

Rattle gun wont break the bolt if that's what your asking. The engine should provide enough resistance for the impact of the gun to loosen the bolt.

How I have got them out in the past: - Easy out if inside the head still - Small pair of multigrips if enough of the stud still there - Weld on a small nut if you have access to a welder, just tac it on either side don't cut sick. I find that gently tapping the stud into the head helps prior to removal as well. Stops the thread picking up inside. Nissan must sell a few of these I reckon. I know I have bought 2x full sets over the years.

Thanks for that mate. Definately makes more sense to me now, Ill concede defeat with that lol.

Can someone please explain to me why he wouldn't see these marks on the head with det? I simply cannot understand why this would be so, sure everyone is saying it can't be because of the pitting on the head, but tell me why? From my understanding, there is STILL no evidence to say something has got into the intake system. Taken from wiki here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking Granted this is not severe detonation, but it's obvious from that statement that both the head and pistons can be effected. Other signs are there including potential contamination of the oil system which has also caused the bearing failure.

Just get a workshop to fit your existing collar. As long as they grub screw it as well, there is no issue. Your rb30 block will have restrictors, just not the right ones unless the workshop has fitted them. Seeing has your still not sure on which pump to run, I probably doubt they have fitted them. To tell if there fitted you measure the internal ID of the restrictor, stock is 2mm, 1.5 is what you want. Do a search for "oil control" or "restrictors". There is a guide to which restrictors to use for most configs and pumps. GTR valve springs I can't answer, someone else might be able to. I know the rb26 head uses solid lifters, where as your rb25 use hydraulic. So I would say in order to use 26 springs, you need to do a solid lifter conversion as well. Which by the time your done with labour, you could have bought a 26 head anyway. Just check out these guys: http://www.performancesprings.com.au/ They do an aftermarket spring for the rb25det. Back in the day myn cost about $400 fitted. Springs aren't an absolute requirement but, it's only really to avoid potential float, and then give you the ability to larger cams latter down the track.

What did you get done on the bottom end that cost $3000? You can run a collar that's not an issue. They use heat to put it on, as it's an interfierance fit, then they put grub screws in on opposite sides. It will never move like this. I have done both, collar and welded it, never had an issue with either. For oil pump any twin cam oil pump will suffice. Again depends on what your going to use it for, if it's going to see alot of track work then I would probably go a nitto pump. Otherwise just take the back of a second hand standard twin cam pump, verify it's OK, new front seal/outer gasket and away you go. Don't forget to grind down the lugs on the 30 block to clear the exhaust manifold, and also put your oil restrictor in. Rear blocked, front 1.5 if you go standard twin cam pump. For Brisbane I recommend Matthew at Southside Cylinder Heads. Very good guy. Just google it. I would probably just go a light port/polish. Could probably do springs if you want, seems to be hit/miss the people that experience valve float at the power your chasing.

Ill take that please. Cheers.

The AEM kit mentioned comes with with the gauge and Bosch wideband sensor included for $220. Everything you need.

I run an AEM wideband on my gtr. Had to weld a bung into the first pipe to do it for the bosch o2. http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideband-air...o-gauge-kit-745 They are reasonably priced, and the controller is integrated into the gauge itself which is good. The gauge also has a 5v output to come back into a laptop for readings. Still probably a bit wank factor-ish, but it can never harm to know that the AFR's are good when you have the foot down. Plus it gave me something to do on a boring weekend.

First of all you need to STOP running the car for starters, because you’re probably causing irreversible damage by continuing to run/drive it. Find the source of the issue, don't muck around when it comes to oil pressure problems. Then drop the sump and find out what's happening with the pick-up. If the sump had a dint before, and all you have done is installed the cooler, then is sounds like you haven't added additional oil to accommodate the cooler. I personally would be checking the pick-up anyway just to be safe. You can't just wack the cooler on, it will simply pump oil into the cooler/lines and the sump will end up with nothing in it, or very low, hence the ticking progression with throttle.

I still think it's det related. Your number 2 on the list below. We pulled a mates 25 head off that we knew had died due to det, and it was a very simlar picture. Taken from here: http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Eng...tion/Page_2.php

Hey guys, Have a brand new set of Wiseco rb25det pistons. Wiseco part no K578M87. Brand new in the box un-opened. They will not suit my application anymore as going in different direction. They are 87mm type, and just your standard piston replacement ie same comp ratio as standard. They include pistons, rings, pins. Cheapest I have found is $795US dollar, I will do them for $700AUS incl shipping to your door. Any reasonable offers but PM me. Location Brisbane S/side.

old thread. edit damn you thread diggers lol.

yeah +1 for detonation. would also explain why the bearing has gone on no5 too. You would think it would be across the board but and evident in all cylinders. I suppose if no5 injector had issues there's a possibility. What do the other cylinders looke like?

Unplug the AFM and let it go into limp, see if there is any difference with/without the AFM now. Then check AFM resistance with a multimeter, can't remember what it should be for a 33. possibly shorted the AFM some how? Also check what ECU error codes you are getting on the dash/ecu. I had one of those SAFC once upon a time, they make a great beer coaster.

I reckon that crank might have been out right from the start. Then over time the shells have all eaten contaminents resulting in this. My 2c. Feel for you mate, my rb30dett is sitting in pieces too atm.

rough k's on it?

You can use the 044 in-tank, plenty of people have done it including myself, you just re-use the sock off the old standard pump. The reason why I personally woulnd't use the standard pump as a lift, is because your building a fuel system that relies soley on the ability of a 20 year old standard part to continue working. By all means use the standard pump as a lift, I just think it's a whole lot of hassle for no real gain. My mate had the exact same setup in his s15, fuel smell in the cabin, running extra efi line, mounting the can, all to find out that he had major surge problems using the standard s15 pump as a lift. He then went a Nismo in-tank and has been happy ever since. Are you doing any track work? If no and it's a streeter, than just a good in-tank will be fine. Anyway that's my 2c.

I would personally pull the standard pump out, then just run the 044 in-tank. Then you use the standard pump wiring to trigger your relay. To trigger the relay, earth one side to the boot of the car, make sure it's a good ground. Then using a mulitmeter find the positive wire for the standard pump and use this as the relay trigger. Then Use 12 gauge wire and run it from the negative terminal of the 044 directly back to the battery, then run the postive from the 044 to the relay, then out of the relay via a 20 amp inline fuse back to the positive side of the battery. If you have a spare Nissan relay lying around just use that. Otherwise you can pick-up 12v relays from Dicksmith that will still work. If your not keen on running the 044 intank, then whatever you do, I wouldn't recommend the standard pump as a lift. Sell 044 and buy a 023, replace standard pump and re-wire with direct current. Relay's will often have a diagram on top to show how they are wired.

I don't think thread locker will be required, that will only make adjusting them in the future a pain in the arse. Just nip them up tight without over doing it. I have a tomei exhaust and a 1st gen HKS on intake, I went down the local engineering/bolt shop and replaced the HKS alan bolts as they looked incredibly china spec. The new alan's looked much better, only cost like 2-3 bucks. Tomei is good but.

vvt issue aside but, it's still missing too much power.