James_03

Cam gears dialed in correctly? If I had to stab in the dark, I would maybe say something timing related. I was out one tooth on intake before a run once, totally different power outcome. Just a suggestion, everything else looks OK mod wise. I woulnd't think the auto would pose any issues.

Compared to the rr581's? Um.. hell yes.

If you looking for a bosch in-tank solution, then go the 023. The 023 is pretty much the big brother of the 040 when looking at the in-tank only range. Quite a few people are still running the 044 in-tank but without issues. The 023 comes with an open base and in-built filter, which I find makes installing easier. Of course the 700bhp of the 044 is probably going to be overkill for most, but to me having the extra rail pressure there is not such a bad thing on a turbo car. But as others have mentioned if your still set on the walbro, then make sure you get the high pressure GSS340, and do the re-wire for direct with a relay trigger.

I have always re-located it above the water pump as per the DET guide. I don't think there is a right/wrong way of doing it, as long as you can still get the correct tension on the belt, all is good. Re-locating does make releasing/tensioning the belt a lot easier but. Saves having to remove the lower cover each time. I have a mate who located his differently to me, and had to cut part of his lower cover away. Just don't go getting all creative like he did, serves no purpose. Just read the rb30det guide it's all in there. Belt part number for tensioner above the water pump is Dayco 94407. 152 teeth. Here is a link to a rb30det belt which I assume requires no re-location, I have nfi if you need to use 2x lower tensioners or not but; http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 It's all too easy now for the new rb30 twin cam kids on the block lol, you even get your belt off the shelf.

Had a few requests for injector pics. So here is what injectors look like.

Bump. Will do the Nismo injectors for $350. Still over $1000 new from Nengun, check for yourself. Injectors have easily done under 1000ks.

Bosch pumps are not noisy at all when installed correctly, and the performance between the two is not the same. You only really need to put them side by side to see why, but here are some facts all the same: Below figures are with 13.5v pump supply. Bosch 044 pump is 330 litres per hour and supports 730 bhp at 73.5 PSI (0 580 254 044) Walbro 255 "high pressure" is 56 gallons/211 litres per hour at 70 PSI (GSS340) Speaks for itself. An 044 intank fitting I find is just as easy as the walbro, I have done both.

In-tank 023 FTW.

Hey guys, Have some random stuff for sale: 1. Nismo 550CC top feed GTR injectors (Pink top, done less than 500k's) 2. Used CP rb30et forged pistons (87mm) 3. Garrett 2860-10 twin turbos suit rebuild (Were running when removed but would recommend rebuild) Prices just for the sake of it, but PM me any offers: 1. $400 2. $200? 3. $400 Post or PM for further info. Location is Brisbane S/Side.r Cheers.

Ok Ill check again tonight when I get home and re-measure it.

When I measured my wiseco's last night, I measured the top of the piston above the top compression ring. This came out at exactly 2.5 thou under 87mm, so with a 87mm bore it would have the correct piston to bore clearance. Same with the old CP's. The top of the piston came out like 3 thou under 87mm. So they have put 2.8 thou over on the bore as you say, but more than likely 3 because I only had vernier calipers to measure with and there was a very slight carbon lip on the top of the bore. Plus the pistons were already 3 thou under 87 which obviously gives you in the area of 6 thou clearance. Above the top compression ring was polished, which someone else mentioned as a tell tale sign. I think that is what happend, I work in I.T. for a living so feel free anyone with more knowledge to chime in, but I think that's everyone's general line of thought.

Hey guys, I think your right, piston to bore clearance. Pistons were all around the right way, according to the mark. Pistons that it had were CP. Measured it all up tonight, I think they have added the piston to bore clearance to the actual hone itself. Bores were showing a fairly consistant 87.07 across the board. Plus whatever CP recommend on top of that again which is like 3-3.5 thou I read. I think that is what has happend anyway. Skirts are all showing signs of wear yes. Sound plausible?

Thanks for all the help guys. Yeah it did burn oil ever so slightly, according to a mate following me once under load it was evident. It ran a 100% atmo catch can too so this probably explains the burning oil. Has a brand new head so I knew it was not stem seals that was causing the issue. I think your right in that the bores are out. I don't know how it was done last time unfortunately, I just took it to a local mob with the pistons and they bored it out to 87mm and assembled it with the pistons I supplied. I ran a bottle brush through no6 this afternoon very quickly and it took the marks right off and it looked brand new again. Obviously I still have a major problem but. Waiting on a mate to bring some equipment around so we can measure the bores properly. So where too from here? Another block?

Hey guys, Pulled my rb30/26 down over the last 2 weeks and today finally got to taking the pistons out. Basically I have 87mm rb30et pistons in there now, and I have new higher CR pistons to go back in which will yield 9.5:1 I had the bottom end built by an engine builder back in the day. I pulled them out to find this, marks were on every cyliner and on both inlet/exhaust side of the bore: Now I have two questions: 1. Is this caused by incorrect piston to bore clearance? If not what is likely to have caused it? 2. Can I give the bores a lite hone and re-fit my new 87mm pistons and be OK? The bores are 87mm at the moment, and the new pistons are too, hence the issue. Some people have told me a lite bottle brush hone to get the marks out won't hurt, others have told me to ditch the block all together and hone out another 30 block to suite my new 87mm pistons. Issue with that is I spent many a hours modifying this block for the 4wd adapter plate Anyways what be SAU's opinion.

I had my last run done by Mark he's a very good tuner. Just ask him for input as others have suggested. My first point of call would be to drop the exhaust and take it for another run. Will the 040 be OK acting as a lift for the twin 044's? I would check that out too.

The 044 will outflow the nismo. So yes, it will support the same power.

Ok, I was under the impression they were 22mm pin for rb30. In that case I have no issue then.

Hey guys, For those of you running 25/26 pistons, how did you get around the 21mm gudgeon pin on the 22mm rb30 rods? I have heard that you can get the rb30 rod's re-bushed to suit the 21mm pin. I want to run rb25det forged pistons in my next rb30dett build, but don't know what to do about this. Cheers.

Hey thanks for that David. Yeah I didn't think there would be a code, only for the .020 over. I have a set on order with CP now since last week. Thanks again.

Cool thanks mate. If anyone has a product code, feel free to sling it my way.

Hey guys, Anyone running these pistons: rb30/26 9:1 .40 oversize I can only find them in .20 by CP? Cheers.

Ok thanks guys. Yeah I am going to strip it down again and change the pistons over. I just got it back together again with the -10's too after some crank work lol. I am going to sell the -10's and put -5's on too. When I built the block which was a while back now, they didn't have rb30det specific pistons, I must have used homo rb30et slugs. Lesson learnt anyway. Cheers.

Yeah it pulled up 125psi/cylinder, which is around there. Made shit power on the dyno, tuner did his best with it but. Top end is reasonable, but the 30 doesn't like being up there like the 26 which makes for a real shitter of a motor. I pretty much lost the one thing that didn't make it such a p1g, which was the smaller housings of the nismos I had before. I just don't know if I have the strength to pull it all down again just to change the pistons over. It's a massive fkn job. It's running a tomei MLS HG too which just seals the deal as far as low CR is concerned. Any other ways of upping the CR without doing slugs guys? Or just bite the bullet and strip it down again? Open to suggestions. Ill probably still go the -5's as you said Ash regardless of what happens with CR.

Hey guys, I will be changing the turbo's and chucking some cams in. Even if the cams help a little I will be happy. CR is actually 7:1 So what cam's would you guys go for? You reckon nothing over 260's so I was thinking a set of tomei poncams type B. Also should I go the -5, or the -7 2860's? Cheers.

Yeah haven't played with gears yet, that's probably our very next point of call but. I think I really made a bad choice by going the -10's. The whole reason I did the 30 was for response, it had N1's on before and started to ramp at like 2000 which was a dream to drive. Ah well, might have to get some half decent cam's for it now.