James_03

Sorry forgot to mention that. Standard rb26 cams Apexi PFC

Hey guys, I am after some guesstimates on the following. When should I see boost with the following setup: rb30dett low CR 8:1 Standard rb26 head & plennum Garrett 2860-10 twin turbos HKS Dumps 3.5" with hi-flow cat 70mm GTR FMIC At the moment there coming on at 4500rpm. I am trying to establish if I have a problem elsewhere, or if it's the low CR and -10's that are just making it a "oink oink". I know it's not an ideal setup, but that's just how it's ended up unfortunately. My reasoning is that with the rb30, it should still be coming on way earlier than that despite the low CR. Cheers.

Take some time? Are you kidding? Take a look at how many new items are advertised in the trading section on a daily basis. That would be literally a full time job for like 5 admins, not even remotely practical. You just need to check the sellers activity on the forums, previous items sold etc etc. Blinding EFT 2k into a lurkers account is just asking for it.

Sweet thanks MrKotter. Yeah got them all in today no probs, just had to think about it for 10 sec.

I am using this pic I found, I guessed that the sticker on each arm indicates the "A" normally found on your stockers which go to axle side away from body: This is what I have: So have I got it right? I just doesn't seem right because you would want the allen bolts facing down for easy adjustment meaning I have it installed wrong.

cmon guys anyone?

Hey guys, Firstly this is my first time doing any suspension work, so as such I am n00b. I picked up a set of Noltec adj upper camber arms for my r32. The question I have is: The 4 allen bolts on top of the arm, should they face down, or towards the top of the car? They have no markings on them and I am having trouble finding the side that is normally marked "A" on your stockers, and also which side is left/right. Cheers.

Done.

Yeah thats the outer, thanks for that mate. Ill quote them that on monday. Cheers.

Ok cool fair enough. I am chasing both the outer ball joints yes as the boots are split. I think possibly he has given me info on r32 gts-t, as they look more like a non-serviceable LCA to me. I rang nissan today and they said they were not seperate. Ill ring another dealer monday and specify the part number this time. Thanks guys. Cheers.

Hey guys, I searched on this topic but couldn't find anything confirmed. I am chasing both left/right lower ball joints for an r32 gtr skyline. Lots of here say around that n13 pulsar lower ball joints will work off the NS forums, but I would like to confirm. Nissan obviously only sell the entire arm due to it being non-serviceable. I know r33 LCA's will bolt on albeit with a few changes, but I don't like the idea of bolting up second hand arms. Here is a diagram:

rb25 turbo is a waste of time imho, replacing one time bomb with another. I would be chasing something with a steel wheel minimum, or just get the stocker hi flowed. New tuner while your at it.

It really needs to have a pressure gauge hooked up to the rail and the pressure verified whilst cranking, can you confirm this has been done? Just to make sure it's not something still FP related by some small chance. If pressure is OK, then I would be leaning more towards an electrical issue, if it's running stock ECU put it into diags and check for fault codes whilst cranking. When it does start that 1/20 times, does it run rough? Give us more info in regards to that.

Like somewhere on the dump?

Did you close your eyes when it came to reading this part? Yes it's broken, but even I can still take away from that what is intended. Then you had the nerve to say you wouldn't pay it and ask for help at the same time. No sympathy here, wear it.

Also make sure you have the machined flat surface underneath the water pump for the idler re-location. This doesn't seem to have anything to do with year, as I got a late VL block once with oil/water feeds but no flat surface. It's just shitfull having to make up a spacer for it.

Yeah true. I was actually thinking of doing that, they have already started on the crank so can't get out of that now. What I might do is take the block/crank elsewhere again once I get it back. Thanks all.

Yeah it was the mains that were bad. The motor has done next to no k's at all, so I think it was simply linished then chucked back in out of spec, *sigh*. Any recommendations on bearings? It had King's in it, thinking of going ACL racing this time. Ill take the block/rods back in and request that they check it regardless. Cheers.

Hey guys, Recently I pulled the bottom end off my rb30dett only to find the bearing shells looking like shit. Basically they were polished on certain parts of the bearing. I wasn't too sure if this was normal or not (suspected not) so I took the crank out and took it to a local engine rebuilder for an opinion. Basically the guy went thru and measured all the journals etc, and then told me it was just out of minimum standard tolerance. They told me I could "probably get away with it", but I opted to not "probably get away with it" and have it done right. Ok so they then recommend having the crank ground then a linish, and told me to get 10/10 bearings? whatever the fck that means. I assume 0.25 o/size but can anyone confirm? Now my other question, I asked them if they needed the block/rods brought in as well and they said no? So are they skipping something here? I want it done right this time so please let me know if they should be checking anyting on the block/rods before I re-fit the crank with o/size bearings. Cheers.

Hey guys, Chasing left/right front drive shafts to suit an r32 gtr. Have cash and and pick-up anywhere in Brisbane. PM me as I check regularly. Cheers.

Hey guys, Those of you with rb30dett's, how have you done the twin drain for both turbo's? I currently merge both drains into one on myn using brass fittings, then use the existing rb30et drain already in the block. Now I have the motor back out for something else and have the oppurtunity to do a twin drain by drilling into the block and making another one. So is it worth while going to a twin drain system like the standard 26 block? Reason being is I just have nfi if the current drain system is working OK or not, it could be backing up the pipes at high rpm for all I know. I am also concerned about effecting the strength of the block if I drill into the wall at certain locations. Any suggestions welcome. Cheers.

Maybe wait until you get home and actually check your mail next time. Before creating a piss and moan thread.

Ok cool thanks for that.

Anyone?

bump. Also have polished Cusco strut brace for r32 gtr. $80. Everything still for sale.