James_03

Hey guys, After opinions on two things. When using metal intake/exhaust gaskets is there anything special to do other than insuring the faces are good? Would there be any benefit to applying something like hylomar to the the intake surface before installing to get a better seal? and.. When replacing the rear main seal into the housing, how have people done this in the past? I am probably going to make up a drift to do it on a mates lathe. But if it can be installed without going to this effort then please let me know what you normally do. Cheers.

The belts probably just skipped, check your idler/tensioner is still spinning freely. Then check belt tension is within spec. I would get the bottom end on TDC then start all over again. I have never seen a busted key, even on rb30's with 600,000ks. If the front bolt is within torque spec then it simply should not happen.

As much as it pained me to read that short paragraph.. Ok so your either missing spark or fuel, the fact that your 2-5 plugs are still wet sort of tells you it's probably missing spark still, despite you saying it was checked. How exactly did you go about checking spark? Have you verified fuel pressure still? Rip the feed line off the rail and check it primes with ign. I was going to recommend putting the ECU into diags to check for fault codes, but looking at the mods it's probably not running stock management anymore. As often as it's said for it to die completely like that I would be leaning towards a faulty CAS at this stage, thats pending your answer on how spark was verified.

Yeah my guess would be that the IAC valve is coming in when you turn the A/C on at idle, and I would bet that the lower half of those air pipes feeding it are filled with oil. When you look at how then IAC is located on the 33 manifold, it would be very easy for it to catch residue oil. +2 for remove inlet and clean.

bump.

bump.

Sorry to de-rail again. Pretty sure there a cast iron block dude. I have an EF as my daily and it's cast, I also have a BA block in the shed and it's also cast iron. http://www.fordspec.com.au/specifications/ba.php Look under Block Metal in the table. They have been doing cast iron blocks right from the get go. 260rwkw on 14psi. Running hell rich but needs a re-tune badly.

It's funny cos it's true. Saw a boosted EA at a local dyno one day getting it's first run. Threw a rod at like 7psi lol. But to get on topic, I have the -10's currently on my rb30dett and there sweet. Another vote for -10's.

Yeah that's fine man. PM me to organise.

Hmm fair enough. Im running 20psi on a set of gt-rs turbo's using stock gtr intake piping, never had an issue. I thought that was the idea of the wire inside the piping, so it holds it's shape for this very reason. Don't think I would go to the trouble but just for the bling bling.

Excuse my ignorance but what is the main purpose/gain from this mod exactly?

Hey guys have some random stuff for sale no longer using. 1. 2x r33 gtr o2 sensors both in good condition. Had responsive readings via PFC before removing ie not lazy. $50 2. GTR drop down resistor with cut wires. Suit GTR injectors in your rb20 etc. Working fine. $50 3. Gunmetal grey r32 gts-t bootlid with wing and factory LED good cond $70 4. r32 gtr bootlid with wing needs paint. Also gunmetal. $70 5. Yet another r32 gtr bootlid gunmetal with no wing but has painted fillers same colour. Ghey nismo sticker to suit. One corner is damaged. $Offers? 6. Logitech G25 wheel with pedals. Used once then packed away so pretty much still brand new. There selling for $300 new, so $200. Location Brisbane 4118. Cheers.

My 044 went this way too, exact same symtoms. Started also getting fluctuating pressure. Ripped it out and went a 023, still never figured out why it died. Was a genuine 044 too, strainer was clean, good wiring etc. There just getting so hit/miss now it's not funny.

Buy a shagged rb25det, (ringlands gone etc) then purchase forged pistons at desired CR. Get it bored OS, crank work done etc and you have a cheap rb25det with the CR you want. That would probably end up costing the same as a rb25de/rb20crank purchase as you will need to have machine work done on that too more than likely so that it all works properly. my 2c.

I lol-d ^^ Would have taken major guts to quit your I.T. job and start this. Props to you man.

Save an extra $1500, purchase 26 front cut. That would be me anyway.

Yeah just run the app in compatibility mode as mentioned. Failing that we run a very old school app here at work with serial output using Windows 7. We just use the Virtual XP enviroment for Windows 7. Can be a little tricky getting your ports back to the physical machine but. See here anyway: http://www.microsoft.com/windows/virtual-pc/ Try compatibility first but, much easier.

According to one of his old threads he is in Melbourne. But is unlikely that's his real name. Good luck finding him anyway, PM one of the mods if you haven't already.

We egged on our cab driver one night to drag off a teg coming out of the city and he won hands down. New teg type-s but not type r, nfi what the difference is. Anyway it lost badly to a BA falcon on gas with 500,000ks. Poor guy, caby lolled in his face. My guestimate is you should win fairly easy.

Injectors are gummed up I bet. Has the motor been sitting for a while? Because if it is the injecors are probably just gummed up. Take the CAS out, keep it plugged in and get a mate to turn it over same direction as cranking with IGN on. Then grab a screw driver and hold it against one of the injectors bodies and put your ear on the end of the screw driver. Should be able to hear it pulsing throught the screw driver when turning the CAS over. If nothing then check your 12v constant on the injectors, out of the 2 wires on each plug/injector one will be the same colour on each, this is your 12v. With the IGN relay on, you should be getting 12v on this wire for each injecor before cranking. If your voltage is OK, remove the rail and tap each injecor body lightly with a screw driver until they start pulsing. I usually leave the rail plugged in when doing this, as you can hear them come in. If your missing 12v from the injectors, then there is a large plug near the AFM side with 6 or so spade terminals on it, one of the spade terminals gives the injectors 12v, I think it's a light grey colour. Get a multimeter and go through each spade terminal until you find it.

bumps. someone buy these damn wheels from me lol. every chump on boost keeps wanting to swap me for a freaken pit bike.

I like this idea.

bump.

Skirts are on hold atm for someone. There just OEM gtr copies but. Cheers.

Whoops forgot about that. Location is Brisbane, 4118.