James_03

Hey guys, Have some stuff here for sale. I have created this thread with everything in here so I am not starting a new one every second day. Items: 1. Twin Nismo RR581 turbos, rebuilt by *insert big company name* 3 months ago. Something has gone wrong with them but as they now have considerable shaft play. Still working OK, but I have decided not to run them any longer. Could try taking them back to *insert big company name* to see what they can do. I don't believe the car was responsible for the failure as they were only running 14 psi with all new water/oil lines. $400 for both. 2. 2x r32 gtr brake master cylinders. $50 each. 3. r32 gtr booster $50. 4. r32 gtr power steering rack complete. Pulled from low ks front cut. $100 5. r33 gts-t power steering rack from 98 model. $100 6. Gun metal grey gts-t bonnet good condition. $100 7. r32 gtr boot lid with wing, gun metal grey but needs paint on wing. $100 8. r32 gtr bonnet with crease. $50 9. rb25det bare block. $50 10. Bosch 044 pump 2 weeks old. $100 11. r32 gts-t gun metal grey boot lid with wing and LED brake light $100 12. r32 gtr new fibre glass side skirts $50 13. 18" Impul wheels with tyres suit gts-t $800 Any more info regarding the above please contact me. Cheers.

Yes you would then run to each injector, that's if you intend on running all new wiring to them. There is no remaining common power because you just used it for the resistors... The wiring will remain but it will no longer have a 12v on it. When I did it I just cut the 12v above each injector and wired the resistor for each inline. Saves having to run new wiring, but it does mean your butchering your loom, which personally I didn't have a problem with at the time cos it was a shitter r31. Either way.

The ECU pulses a ground trigger to the coils in order to fire them. You have 3 terminals on the coils usually, 12+, Negative, Trigger. The coils don't ground out via the ECU, as that would kill it. Instead the negative trigger from the ECU is responsible for opening the ground to that particular coil. So to put it simply, the ECU is just flicking an on/off switch inside the coils, then the coil grounds out via the common ground that they are all using. What are the condition of the other coils? Are they showing any signs of heat damage or is it just 3/4? One thing you could do to test, is remove the CAS and get someone to spin it around with IGN on. Remove the plugs from all the coils packs, put the multimeter on say CYL 2 and measure the current output from number 2 when it fires. Then do the same for plug number 4, check what the current output is when it fires and compare. Keep all the results from that test, then plug the stock ECU back in and do the same thing again. Also check the trigger wire output between cyl 2 and 4 then compare for both ECU's. This should tell you if the trigger on the microtech has too much current, and also if the issue lies between just the 3 and 4 driver on the microtech. The problem should show on the muti between the good/bad coils, if there is one. I think what you *MAY* have ran into, is an incompatibility between the 16 and the integrated ignitors with the S2 coils. Post up on the Microtech EFI forums too, there's a couple of guys on there that are quite good.

What I have seen some people do is run the X6 ignitor box combined with S2 coils. That will give you melted coils. I noticed you have a S2, so you should be running the inbuilt ignitor's on the S2 splitfires. How has it been wired? did you get it with a plug & play conversion loom, or has it been wired into the stock loom? Let me know what that model number is off the coils, and if your running a plug & play loom. Dwell cycle of 2.5 shouldn't kill them, there just being belted with excessive current I believe.

Yeah see what you get after diags. Just be careful what you use to clean the AFM with. Most people use a carby cleaner spray which is what I recommend. I have heard of ppl using all sorts of shit, lemon juice etc lol.

Early 32's are more prone to dry solder joints then 34's. Put the ECU into diagnostic mode and check for an AFM error code. Should flash the code back if it's bad. That's if your still using factory management. You can check the resistance values between the pins to give you an idea if it's bad. Could simply be a dirty AFM wire. But yes I would say it fell back into limp mode when you removed the AFM hence it was able to start.

Both are 2 outlet removed from vehicles with ABS. I will try and get another pic up tomorrow, batteries in camera are gone and it's too cold to drive to the servo.

Have for sale 2x r32 gtr BM50 brake master cylinders for sale. No leaks both working fine before removal. After $100 each.

Standard turbos? If so just leave it at factory boost. Then look at doing turbo/s and management. You have some of the supporting mods already there. Standard GTR turbos are shitter time bombs, if you don't want some wheel in your cat then leave it. If there aftermarket turbos like N1 etc, then it will run up OK on the standard ECU but I would recommend a dyno to check AFR's anyway.

As I mentioned previously, the rb20det silvertop loom will go straight onto a r32 rb25 head only. It will run a r33 head as well, but the injector plugs will need to be changed, and it will also have no VVT solenoid plug. Nor will a chipped rb20 ECU have the ability to run VCT. So if your not going to run VCT, and your able to change the injector plugs then it should be fine. You will not have to wire in any resistor, both are high imp injectors. Each injector will have a common 12+ wire on it which goes back to your IGN relay. The ECU then pulses ground signals to each injector in order to fire it. Each injector on the negative side will have a different coloured wire indicating the cylinder number on the ECU pinout.

rb20 silvertop loom will work for r32 rb25 non VVT head, providing you use standard injectors etc etc. Intake side sensor wise on both is the same, just your 25 intake ports are bigger on the head itself. You have said rb25de s1 but, which still came in the R33 with VVT, this will not work. The head must be a 25 non VVT from an r32, which I am guessing you have to dodge the vvt shit with the 30 bottom end.

What Adriano has said is correct. I am almost certain that the injector o-ring seals that sit in the plennum are a different ID and size for all R33's. The R33 side feed injectors have a larger size seal, due to the fact that it seals off against the rail itself. Your rb30/20/26/early non VVT 25 in 32's are the same but. Spacing in between each injector is the same as I remember from when I did it. So you would probably need new seals for the plennum, then a way of mounting the rail as I believe that is different too. Problem then is that your top feed rail will not physically fit under a standard r33 intake as the top feed rail fouls the top half of the r33 plennum (been there done that). If your going one of the greddy style forward plennums then you would be OK. Injectors are pretty easy, R30 skylines have a drop down resistor which you can get hold of pretty cheap at most wreckers, basically a GTR alternative. Failing that you can obtain the resistors from jaycar and just wire them inline for each injector. Sometimes those drop in replacements but are just worth the time and mucking around you save, side feed sard's can be had cheap.

It's not going to be the turbo water lines. Now what temp are you getting on the cluster? Is it actually moving off half way and towards hot? You might still have a bad radiator. Just because you put water in the top and it comes out the bottom doesn't indicate it's good unfortunately, the core can be flowing poorly and water will still flow out OK. Have you been running coolant in it? I would remove the radiator and take it to a radiator place to be check and cleaned. Failing that you may need to look at a possible head gasket problem, of which the symtoms can be found on here by searching. Get the rad properly checked out first but, re-fit it then move on from there.

So do you intend on connecting them? AFM you won't get away with, the other 2 yes, but it's going to run like shit without VCT and o2. If you can sort out the wiring, then provided you stick to 8psi then I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work.

Shotgun brake master cylinder.

Thanks for that Gary, info I was after.

Yeah that's cool. I didn't think the change in 260's would be drastic enough to leave me with no idle but Makes sense but all the same. Ill just leave them at 0,0 and get another tune on it then. I searched yesterday and a couple of ppl had posted recommending +2 in -4 ex, so I thought it was worth asking.

Hey guys, Last weekend I removed my standard gtr camshafts and replaced them with a set of 260 poncams on my rb30dett. I have them at 0 inlet 0 exhaust at the moment. The power delivery is ok, but definately better with the standard gtr cams. I also cannot get it to idle anymore with it hunting back and forth 200rpm then eventually stalling, is it normal to loose the ability for it to idle? I know that a tune will more than likely need to take place now, but just curious to see if people have had better success with these cams by dialing them in using a different setting other than 0,0? How much is the tune dependant on taking advantage of the cams? I just want to know if there is anything I can do to improve response/idle without playing with the tune. Basically my worry is that I will have to cough for another dyno run just to get my stable idle back, and I just don't know if the gains are going to be worth it, especially if the whole tune will need to be done again. The tune I have now with the gtr cams is very good and somewhat refined now, it spat out 250rwkw on 14psi, and response was great.

Hey guys, The JJ 18 is not the offset. The offset is +35, rim size is 18x9. ^^ yes mate all 4 are the same specs. Tyres are Falken 18/35/ZR18. These would be a good fit for r32 gts-t and possible r33 gts-t. I will include good spacers with them but that bring them back down to around +20 ish for gtr. Get in quick but as they only have 2 days left on ebay. Cheers.

You would think after swapping 3 different turbos in that you could probably safely rule out the turbo. Unless all 3 that went back on all had issues. A tired motor can still show up a fairly consistant result if no major ringland/bore damage has occured. Then add to the fact that the compression ratio raised to 140 when he used oil, that in most cases = rings By all means try a catch can, I just don't think it even has half a chance of fixing a motor with bad rings. Add to the fact that your just avoiding the inevitable anyway. As for the rebuild, you need to know what power figure your going to chase before you start making your list of items to purchase.

Check that you have performed the comp test correctly, if it still comes up at 110psi then just start saving for a rebuild IMO. Do check the PCV valve as mentioned but, blow into the hose and insure air moves through OK in the direction shown by the arrow on the PCV itself. If it's OK just re-install it. Oil residue before the turbo is not so much an issue, just clean the intake pipe with de-greaser and put it back on. Most cars will have this after racking up a few ks. Excessive oil after the turbo but or in the intercooler can indicate turbo failure. I think it's unlikely in this case but if you have replaced the turbo with a good unit. Most journal turbos will show a small amount of shaft play, just remember if there's no oil in the cooler piping then 9 times out of 10 you can rule out turbo. I would skip the catch can all together, it's a bandaid fix that more than likely won't fix the issue anyway which is excessive blow by due to bad rings. Take the money you would have spent on a can, and put that towards rebuild money. Or just pickup another wrecker rb20 again, comp test it, then get back to limiter smashing.

I replaced myn a while ago with some good turbosmart vac line then cable tied it. Just make sure the replacement hose is the same ID. I would recommend silicone hose for replacement over rubber too. I also never T anything off the reg line as gary mentions.

Price drop. $1500 for wheels and $300 for cooler. Cheers.

Hey guys have the following things for sale: 1. 18" Impul rims 18x9 JJ 18. Removed from my r32 gtr as I have gone a different style. Originally got these off Steve aka Antimatter about 12 months back or there abouts. I was running spacers (good ones) which I will include with the rims upon request. They sat perfectly on my r32 gtr with the spacers, will probably be OK for other cars too check against your factory offset. Spacers alone cost $$ as they were good hub-centric style. They need a good polish/clean as I just hit them with water to get some of the brake dust off. They look quite good when they are all polished up. $1700 Pics: 2. Just Jap 120mm drag intercooler for GTR 32/33/34. This has sat in my room since I got it not used. GTR factory cooler ended up being fine for my needs. $400 Pics:

Yes the looms will be different, sensor types/locations vary. The major difference is between NICS and ECCS motors, but there are even differences between redtop ECCS and silvertop ECCS. Good luck PM me if you get stuck.