James_03

If it's going to ping because of fuel it won't be because you filled it up with v-power, normally v-power is fine. The only possibility for fuel to be the cause is that the fuel was bad to begin with. Seeing has your running a stock ECU, put it into diags and check for any fault codes using the check engine light in the dash. If no fault codes show up I would probably dump the fuel and try again with new stuff. Dump it out into a good can but and keep it just incase it's not fuel related so you can re-use it. Definately sounds like it's detonating under load/boost which may be caused by low octane bad fuel. Yes detonating is bad, and will eventually kill the motor if you continue to drive it like that.

Removing the loom is easy. Take the passenger side kick panel off, disconnect the ECU and take out the ECCS/Ignition relays. Then you can feed the loom back out through the firewall and into the gaurd, then pull it through into the engine bay and remove. Silvertop loom is just the opposite, connect it all up to the engine then feed the ECU connector and relays into the gaurd first, then into the car. The wiring is straight forward, check out the guide on r31 forums or PM me as I have done a couple before.

It's vent to atmo, you can look at it from any angle you like it won't change.

It's a dual chamber apexi vent to atmosphere. Your better off finding another stock unit if you wish to return it back to plumb back and sell the apexi.

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm

Very nice. Always quicker dropping the sub frame out. Nismo plate on the firewall had me thinking you might have scored cams/turbos. The part number shows up as Nismo twin plate clutch which was probably fitted at factory. That's a shite load of work in that time hey, well done.

Doesn't look like he wants to sell these. Too bad, could have sold them 3 days ago champ. If only you didn't ignore people PM's.

I have sent you 3 PM's. Can you please get back to me.

Yeah should be the same. Try the 25 ignitor on the 26 loom, if it plugs in then your all good. I just remember having trouble at some stage with a 25 ignitor plugging in. The 20 you have should be no problem.

Ignitor should be fine. The LT12 has 6 ignition drivers meaning you don't have to wire the ignitor up using wasted spark like early microtechs. Use the ignitor with the loom you are using, ie GTR ignitor with the 26 loom, 25 ignitior on the 25 loom. Both wire in the same way. Only reason I say that is I think 20/26 ignitors have a different plug to 25 S1. 20/25 S1/26 coils are all the same.

Are you using the 26 loom on it as well? Im confused now. You don't need to use the 26 loom on it hey, just wire the microtech into th 25 loom. If using the 26 loom you will need to change the physical connections for injectors and knock. You will also need to by-pass the drop down resistor plug. Cheers.

I don't think you will have any issues. The CAS wires in the same way as does the knock sensors. I am actually running a S2 rb25 CAS on my gtr now. The ECU sends ground pulses to each injector to fire them regardless of low/high impedence. The drop down resistor in the GTR takes care of that, you don't need to change injector plugs on the rb25 you just wire it in the same with your 12v common back to ign relay, then each injectors ground to the corrosponding pinout on the ECU plug. The tune will probably be out slightly because of the 25/26 difference. It will probably still run OK as the injectors are still matched but I would be getting a re-tune asap to suit your application. You can get all the wiring diagrams off the mircoleb efi website.

You don't need to put oil anywhere on the compression hose. You actually inject a small amount of oil down the spark plug hole directly into the bore and test. I usually turn it over by hand a couple of times as well before doing the first test, allows the oil to move into the rings. The idea is that the oil temporarily fills any minor gaps in bad rings raising the compression, telling you that the rings are bad. If the rings are good there should be no change in results with oil/no oil.

full to the brim with ceramic goodness. run*.

Just remember if you replace the intank fuel hoses use Flouroelastomer outer hose. Regular efi will go to shit. I am running an 044 intank in my 32 gtr, been great so far. You may also find these fittings usefull it's what I used: Here It allows you to come out at 90 from the pump outlet so you don't foul against the side of the tank. Has a pick-up as well. I looked everywhere for those fittings even Enzed couldn't do it, thread pitch on the 044's is not the norm which makes it hard.

Actually you did get a reply "Jason". Plus the pics you requested via email. Then you low balled with a rediculous offer, so feel free not to buy them. Yes they are still for sale at the moment.

Plenty of interest but no takers, will seperate for the right price.

Hey guys, As per title I have an Apexi bov kit for sale to suit 32/33/34? GTR skylines. Comes with 2x Dual Chamber Apexi Bov's, adapter pipe, and stock cast mounting. Remove stock, bolt on new nothing else needed. Bov's in good condition working fine prior to removal. Can be adjusted hard/soft. New price EACH here: https://www.modyourcar.com.au/apexi-twin-ch...-universal-p451 Located in Brisbane, chasing $250 ono. Cheers.

Yes they are all high impedance Hitachi injectors. Mazda changed the injector plugs to an oval style plug for the S5 rx-7. The S4 rx7 injectors should be a straight drop in. Be aware that the NA and Turbo injectors are similar in colouring. N/A is 460cc turbo is 550cc. N/A part number: 195500-2020 (Purple/Red top) Turbo part number: 195500-2010 (Red top) If you end up getting S5 550's then you can get the oval style plugs of most toyota camry's, I got a set of a V6 2001 model camry that looked almost new. Be aware but that the spray pattern is like a garden hose, and for this reason I would not recommend them. Been there done that. Personally I would be to go for Sard's or Nismo even if it does take a little longer to save for them.

Hey guys, I have a rb30dett and recently last week went back to factory GTR re-circulation setup using standard gtr bov's. The car is running great at the moment, but what seems to happen at around 15psi is the bov's sound like they vent on/off constantly very quickly. If you back off the throttle a bit it goes away, but starts up when you jump back on and keep it at around 15psi. I searched before and noticed a couple of posts relating to "shuffle". Is this what you would classify as shuffle? I don't think it is but want to check. I was going to install new vac lines to the bov's as I thought that the lines may be leaking at higher boost levels causing the on/off venting to happen. At the moment there just running the factory gtr vac lines which are in good condition. Any thoughts guys?

Sounds good, will be interesting to see how far the walbro gets you. My one fell flat on its face at 260rwkw, then had to go 044. Good power but, probably right on par with the mods.

From your description sounds like the porcelain has broken apart. This has happend to me a couple of times before, on my own car and others. They were probably incorrectly torque down during previous installation. What I have done in the past is get a vacume cleaner in there, a good hi-powered one and remove as much loose porcelain as you can from the cylinder head valley. Check to see if there are any bits you can gently remove from the plug, large pieces. Then vac it again and start to gently take the plug out. I usually get someone to hold the vac around the base of the plug whilst I remove it. I have done a few in the past all went ok, just have to take your time with it.

See either two things are still happening here: 1. You have not plumbed it back to the actuator correctly and removed the controller 2. The actuator is bad and/or the wastegate flap If you dropped back onto a working actuator correctly then you should now only be running 8psi. It shoulnd't be anywhere near 1bar. Remove the actuator and insure the wastegate flap can move freely all the way down and up again, re-install the actuator. My suggestion would be to "Obtain" the service manual for it, and take a good look at the vac diagrams. I still don't think you have the lines right. Edit: You said in a previous post that you replaced the actuator, where did you get the new actuator from? You are aware that different actuators can hold different levels of boost yes? Chances are it's a 1bar actuator you have replaced it with.

Seriously, drop it back onto the actuator. I had a feeling it would still do it. I know everyone always jumps straight to controller in these scenarios, but it's a shitty brand and it has all the symptoms.

You have a stock ECU, so your not going to be able to change the factory map unless you get it chipped OR go aftermarket. But before you actually go down the path of doing this, the solution maybe relatively simple. You still haven't checked the basics, which people have told you to do. If you don't know how to test the actuator then take it somewhere that does. I had creep on my GTR for quite some time, went straight back onto stock actuators again which ran fine = bad controller. I am not saying that it is definately the controller or actuators, maybe still something to do with the tune. But you really need to eliminate the actuator & controller as first point of call then move from there. Check all vac lines are in good cond too.