James_03

Yeh I have a full set of 26 head bolt washers that I will run. I'll try just dual washers first with another HG, see how things go from there.

It's currently running 25psi and making 620awhp. I would love to just keep it at that, but with the head staying on, lel. Maybe my issue has been the washers all along. Has anyone successfully re-drilled for 26 studs with the block still in the car? I read somewhere that the counter bore is done first, then drill out the main thread to 10.5 and tap. That's all fine, but doing it all square is my main concern.

OK should I re-drill and go 26 studs? Or should I just try the dual washers instead? Thoughts?

OK cool thanks sky30. Why did you end up running dual washers?, did notice it was going to be close, or did you have some bottom out on you? Cheers.

Yep that's what I'm thinking the next step is.

Yeh I thought it was spark so swapped out the plugs/ignitor/packs, made no difference. Then took it for a run yesterday, was breaking down under boost really bad. Let it cool down then took the cap off, started it without the cap and it was just bubbles everywhere.Yes water level was also dropping. So the only solution is to pull it all down and remove the motor? Surely there is a way I can check things like a distorted block in the car with the head removed?

Hey Guys, Old thread here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446963-head-stud-torque-pushing-coolant-600hp/#entry7367800 Basically my 26/30 is still lifting the head, and it's just driving me absolutely crazy. Some background info: 26/30 engine with CP 9:1 pistons. Was originally running a standard nissan 26 HG, and rb25 ARP studs the non ARP 2000 type. Was running 98/Toluene and made about 500awhp. Went to get it dyno tuned again, and started to get pretty bad knock on the dyno which was attributed to the high comp, switched to E85 on the dyno, and ended up making 620awhp running very well. It did however start to lift the head on the very last pull. Despite this got it back, and it ran well for quite some time with no issues. Went to a track day a few months down the track, and after the day had ended noticed it was pushing coolant (a lot more), but still ran well despite this. Fast forward and the issue became worse, to the point where it would start to break down at WOT which it had never done previously. Pull the head off and went a tomei 1.2mm HG with ARP 2000 head studs, ran fine again for a while and issue returned. Now the head had been faced previously, and upon installing the tomei HG I did not have the head faced, the face looked very good still, and had previously been running the old composite gasket, I just cleaned the face and removed any old gasket prior to installing. When this issue returned I put it down to not having the head faced, which was a oversight on my part. So pulled the head off again, and took it in to be checked, had the clearances re-done whilst it was in, pressured tested as well and had it faced. Re-installed again using the old tomei HG using copper coat, cleaned all the coating off the tomei HG using gakset stripper prior to installation. Re-torque head studs to 105ft/lb, used the ARP lube on head stud thread (both ends) and under the nuts themselves. Issue has returned again as of yesterday, it was bubbling up through the rad just on idle, will drive fine off boost but any boost and it breaks down pretty bad, so it's HG again. I almost at my wits end. Now it cold comps with a standard HG at around 200psi. So should I be using a greater clamp pressure then 105ft/lb? Should I re-drill the block for 26 studs instead? Could the block possibly be warped, and is it possible for this to occur? ARP have a part number specifically for the 26 and 25/30 conversions now, does anyone know what the difference is between this and 25 studs? Also someone recommended running dual washers, to stop them bottoming out on the studs, can anyone verify that they have also needed to do this? When I torqued the head, I went back to 0 again and none of the nuts had bottomed out, so I didn't end up doing that. Also I hadn't heard of anyone else having to do this out there. Any thoughts, comments whatever, throw them at me.

That's interesting XKLABA as when I took the 4301's out some of them had bottomed out. How did you know to do that mate? Did you have some bottom out on you?

It all started when I went to e85, and probably increased cylinder pressures along with it. Was fine at 500awhp when it had the 98/toluene tune. Has never been overheated either and had the head skimmed when I fitted the gasket.

Yeh true that Kiwi. Maybe I need to start with investigating that first. The HG was brand new, so I am leaning towards an issue with head/block not being true.

Hey guys, Thought I would bump this thread as I seem to be in trouble again. Ended up taking the head off as it started to push coolant yet again. I chucked the 202-4301's in the corner, and went the 202-4309 studs. Replaced with a tomei 1.2mm metal HG. Everything was fine for a while, went to a track day last weekend, got home, and the coolant reservoir had puked a little bit. I noticed as well that it appeared to be breaking down right at the top of limiter (7500). This could also be spark related, but I would bet that it's coolant causing the issue. So question is, where too from here? I was thinking about re-tapping for L19's. I would like to go back for a re-tune for 30psi, but it's just not possible until I sort out this shit. Has anyone had any similar experiences and how did you resolve? How have people re-tapped the block in car? I imagine a drill guide is used like this possibly: http://www.carbatec.com.au/portable-drill-guide_c21832 I would really love to hear what boost people are running with what studs. It may be possible that I have another issue like warped head/block instead, and I am barking up the wrong tree by going larger studs. Cheers.

Anything guys?

Hey guys, As per title, I am looking to buy a gtr gearbox that has an aftermarket gearset installed. Can be OS, route6, etc. As long as it will hold more power over stock. PM me. Cheers.

OK cool, thanks for all the info mate. I think it's probably wise to just save and go the OS88. I can't justify the cost to build a PPG or OS gearset based box that might or might not take the power, which is what I seem to be reading everywhere, especially with some 1/4 mile work chucked into the equation. Probably have to get used to the taste of canned baked beans for a while lol. Cheers.

Yeh I hear ya man, the OS88 does actually make sense if you consider the cost like you said to go through a few OS gearset rebuilds. I just love how OS pull that magical 800hp number for the gearsets, not that they have probably refunded a single person that has broken one under that figure lol. I have just been lunching 3rd in standard boxes so far (also track work), which is bad, but doesn't hurt nearly as much as what an OS gearset would financially. I seem to find that its also heat related, as I had 2 boxes let go right at the end of a session just as it was about to end. Both running redline fluid too. I might just have to park it up for a while, and save like crazy for the OS. I like the fact that the OS88 runs helical gears too. Did you consider the hollinger box at the time Piggaz?

Yeh that's what I was thinking too Piggaz, I think I should be looking at something else esp with the additional torque from the 30. Just weird because I have read reports over on the gtr uk forums of people running some pretty crazy power through them, ie 900hp, and doing 1/4 mile work too with no issues. By biggest gripe with the OS gearset is that is uses standard nissan synchros still, which I am led to believe are pretty average. If you don't mind me asking, did it break on the strip or street at that power level?

Hey guys, Have a r32 gtr with a 26/30 engine running e85. Currently running 620awhp on 25psi, going back for a retune for 30psi and hopefully 700awhp. Now I need to do something with the transmission, looking at doing the following: OS giken 5spd gear set Billet OS centre plate OS input shaft. Triple plate HKS clutch Associated 09/97 r33 gtr gearbox synchros and misc parts Now I would like to do some quarter mile work, not every single week, but I would like to go on occasion. I would like to hear from people with similar power that have done 1/4 mile work with this gearset? Or for that matter, people that have this gearset with xyz power? What exactly is it capable of? I know street it should be fine, but we all know the strip is where it all turns to tears. Cheers.

Just thought I would report back guys. Re-torqued the head to 142nm, just used lucas assy lub under the nut surface and on stud thread, installed a koyo 53mm rad with shroud. Now running fine again, pushed it hard on the weekend and didn't see anything over 70C, coolant levels in the reservoir tank still perfect after topping it up. Still on 26 pound. Might have got lucky. Anyway cheers for all the help.

The genuine bosch 044's will do e85 no worries, there's people that have been running them for years on E.

Thanks for the help guys. It was also running a 52mm ebay radiator that the end tanks were all warped on when I took it out, when we felt the front after a few power runs it was barely warm, so could have also contributed. I have replaced it with a Z series 53mm koyo now, and re-torqued the head last night to 130nm. Failing that then I'll probably rip the head off again, re-drill for 26 studs and tomei MLS gasket. Hopefully I haven't burnt the seal ring as you state GTRNUR. When I checked them after first getting the cams out, they were all 80ft/lb still, and I remember taking my time when I did it and getting it spot on. So I think it is just a case of not enough clamping pressure overall. Has not had an issue with pushing coolant until this last tune on e85/26psi. Prior to that was running 20psi with toluene mix and never had a problem.

OK cool, I'll grab some loctite silver and re-torque with that.

I didn't have arp assy lube available at the time so used w30 oil instead with slightly higher torque specs.

Hey Guys, Quick run down, rb26/30 built engine running e85. Currently running rb25det ARP head studs (202-4301). Recently made 624hp@all 4 at 26psi, but then started pushing coolant on the dyno. Engine is running a factory nissan rb26 head gasket with rb25det ARP 202-4301 head studs. Now I am going to attempt to re-torque the head down before I pull it off again to go a MLS gasket. Currently the ARP rb25 (202-4301) recommended 108nm or 80ft/lbs of torque. The rb26dett ARP head bolts recommended 105ft/lbs. Realistically I should have re-drilled the block and gone 26 ARP head studs with a MLS gasket, but I did the wrong thing and shortcut it which I admit. What do people think of going 90ft/lbs on the 25 studs? Or should I just go to the recommended 80? I don't know if it's the gasket itself or just lifting the head, I also don't know if I can go a little more torque on the head studs then the recommended or if that's too dangerous to attempt. Any help would be great. Cheers.

Yep all valid points. Won't be going that route anymore, too questionable once you add up all the pros/cons.

Hey Guys, Anyone used one of these yet? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251573989655&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:AU:1123 Opinions? Good idea/bad idea? Cheers.