James_03

looks like a chinese t70 to me going by the style off the comp cover. id tag location is also a dead give away.

thow the hyper gear in the bin and get a decent turbo. there you go problem solved.

yeah the real killer is the floor pan as mentioned. gbox mounts differ as well, rear gtr diff also has provision for the attesa pumps on top. You also need the entire attesa controller/loom as well so the split control works which you won't have. Its a fair bit of work. If you have a front cut then you would just drop the entire sub frame out and swap it in which will work. But as already mentioned the floor pan makes running a gtr box difficult, can be persuaded but lol. I would do it personally, I love 4wd. Nothing quite like being 10 car lengths on them while there still back at the lights going sideways.

Yeah I didn't read that initial post right, so your still getting this on stock boost as well. Do you have the factory bov still? Because with nothing at all you will get compressor surge which will do this when changing gears, which is why you may see a quick spike in boost.

Once you have removed the veins from the rear assembly just put it back together and plug the rear outlet with a brass nut. That's what I have done on my own, I also removed all the hicas actuators and lines but so there were no free lines. But I think what he means is just bolt back on the orginal hicas line that was there, which I believe is the rear HICAS outlet as the rear part of the pump will no longer function anyway. Or just remove the lines altogether like I did and plug it.

Hey guys, As per title have the following for sale: 1. Cusco strut brace. Bought second hand but I can't use it due to the deck height of the rb30dett. Realised this 10mins after buying it. 2. R32 GTR fuel pump. Working fine was upgraded, made good power with it but. Price: 1. $70 2. $70 PM me with an offer if you want. Have a pic of strut brace but not pump, its just a standard gtr pump but. I am located in Brisbane 4118. Pick-up welcome but will also post. Cheers.

No they don't. What you have done is correct, you wind the boost tee in (clockwise) to increase boost and anti-clockwise to decrease and fall back onto the stock actuators. If your not getting spike on standard boost then it's not the gauge or its setup, I would be thinking more about the controller itself.

Most Bursons/Repco places will have it, if not they can order it in. There are a few companies making aftermarket replacement belts. I have all bosch belts on my own.

Yeah another vote for bad valve stem seal. I highly doubt the porting has caused this type of issue.

As per title I am after an r32 HICAS ECU the one that sits under the rear parcel shelf. Prefter Brisbane so I can pick-up. Please PM me if you have one for sale. Cheers.

Quote from MTQ from his boost cruising thread where he is also trying to sell them: Don't abuse me via PM next time. Look at the exhaust wheel, who do you think your kidding? Its ceramic all the way.

Walbro pump and turbo timer sold. Will try get pics of the master up if I get time. Also have: 1. r33 gts-t 1997 steering rack complete with tie rods $150 2. r32 gtr/gts-4 1993 steering rack with tie rods $150 Cheers.

Brisbane South, Regents Park.

Hey guys got some stuff for sale. 1. r32 gtr high torque starter motor $100 2. r32 gtr standard exhaust manifolds $50 3. standard gtr fuel pump $80 4. new walbro 255lph High Pressure pump w/kit (GSS-342) $150 5. HKS dumps modfied with both wastegates to atmo $400 6. rb25det block standard bores excellent cond $150 7. r32 gtr ABS unit $80 8. r32 gtr brake master cylinder $80 9. gun metal grey gts-t hood $100 10. standard gtr actuators $25 11. 1x r32 gtr afm $20 12. 2x r32 gtr rear drive shafts excellent cond $100 13. HKS turbo timer $25 Other stuff which I can't think of now will chuck it in later. Your welcome to PM me with offers on all the above.

yes it needs the o-ring in place to work correctly. Loosen both engine mount nuts and raise the front of the motor, then drop the sump. You should have enough room to loosen the pickup bolts off then lower the actual pick-up pipe, then put the o-ring in making sure it sits within the groove. I have done this before on an rb30 in an r31 without taking the motor out.

lol.

There HKS dump pipes mate just incase you wanted to put that. It's normal for them to not have HKS on them anywhere. Can tell by the flange thickness and shape, plus I have a pair.

yeah its still available like $10 postage. Also have a r33 gts-t rack here with boots v good condition $150.

bump.

Pics of HKS EVC:

Hey guys, Got some spare parts for sale. 1. r32 gtr steering rack complete with tie rods 2. HKS dump pipes modified wastegate to atmo 3. Standard r32 gtr exhaust manifolds (great to port match and swap over) 4. r32 gtr starter motor 5. HKS evc 2 boost controller complete with everything Prices: 1. $200 2. $400 3. $100 4. $100 5. $150 Cheers.

Turn your ign on and listen to the solenoid in the engine bay. If you can hear it making a on/off ticking noise then the solenoid is gone. I had a HKS EVC 2 do this.

bump.

yeah the rr581's are good for about 670ps. I have 2x rebuilt ones on my rb30dett. BNR32. For GT / Le Mans. T03(T04B-0.6A/R). I am happy with where they come on boost now, but I always intended to run them on a 30. I probably wouldn't like them on a 26 but. If you have the coin I would be getting the 2860's as mentioned, BB core newer tech etc.

bumps