James_03

bump.

Item: r32 gtr & r33 gts-t steering racks Age: 1993 on the gtr rack, 1996 on the gts-t rack Condition: Both very good Price: $250 for gtr, $200 for gts-t To Fit: r32 gtr and r33 gts-t Location: Brisbane Contact: PM Comments: Both racks where removed in working condition, boots are good on both and no leaks at all. Left rack r33, right 32.

I don't believe it will mate. I actually tried fitting it my r32 gtr, it physically fits but the hi pressure outlets on the rack have a different orientation.

Item: 1. r32 gtr fuel pump 2. r32 gtr master cylinder with booster 3. 2x r33 gts-t S2 pink label afm's 4. R33 gts-t steering rack with tie rods 5. r32 gtr ABS unit 6. rb25 block w/crank Age: Various Condition: 1. Very Good removed from r32 gtr half cut with 50k 2. Very Good removed from r32 gtr half cut with 50k 3. Very Good look almost new no oil film or anything 4. Very Good removed from half cut with 70k boots excellent no leaks 5. Very Good removed from r32 gtr half cut with 50k 6. Very Good standard bores welsh plugs excellent looks almost new Price: 1. $80 2. $100 3. $100 each (Wreckers all ask $175+) 4. $200 5. $80 6. $200 To Fit: R32 gtr and R33 gtst Location: Brisbane Southside Contact: Pm Comments: Ask away if you want to know anymore

SOLD!

I loled at the engrish. Yes I have internally gated turbos. Yes the setup works well. Yes is sounds just like any other atmo screamer, but if I had the choice of turbo to begin with I would go ext gate only because this setup as mentioned is not the conventional way of doing it. It does still work but, and there are no adverse effects from the setup that I have noticed yet, the fact that the plate is a couple of mm off sealing still doesn't stop 90% off the exhaust gasses from flowing correctly. Im not trying to defend the setup just because its my own, if it was shit then I would simply tell you. Somebody before me had them too so they must have worked for him to a certain degree as well, and there are still people making them.

Well there you go, proved wrong again by the people that have never done it. Say no more.

yes true, a very small amount but. My own setup sounds perfectly normal at idle and everywhere else.

I am running hacked up HKS dumps on my twin rr581 low mounts. As long as they have welded in a seperate plate between the turbo wheel outlet and the wastegate inside the dumps it will sound fine at idle, its when ppl don't do this that it will sound bad. I didn't really do myn for sound, I was actually looking for just a good set of HKS dumps without the screamer, just happend to get these off JPS for a damn good price second hand. They sound sweet but, just like any other screamer I have heard, and they are a definately an improvement as far as exhaust restriction is concerned. Try hit up importmonster and they like, they are readily available through yahoo japan second hand.

Yeah I use one of the $20 options that was recommended on here, that guy that was making them. Holds 20psi everyday flawlessly so I don't see a need for anything else, I don't need real time flashy bar graphs or any bs like that. So I would recommend one of those, search for $20 boost controller should come up with the thread. Otherwise if your a poser a HKS EVC *runs*

Im in Browns Plains. Condition wise there good, no visible damage.

Item: gtr blitz sus filters/adapters/afm's Age: Unknown Condition: Good Price: $200 ono To Fit: r32/33/34 gtr Location: Brisbane Contact: James via PM Comments: As per title gtr blitz sus filters/adapters/afm's. Removed today as I have finally got around to putting my twin rb25's on, working fine prior to removal.

ok cool thanks man.

Does anyone know what the S2 1997 r33 gts-t run in terms of bms? Would it be an upgrade to a base model r32gtr?

Yeah I am going to use an R33 series 1.5 rack, see how I go.

Found this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...3+steering+rack So all good.

Also are the R33 gts-t tie rod ends the same as r32 gtr? Need an answer quick anyone know please! I only have an r32gtr service manual.

Hey all, What other skylines did the pr26se rack come in that is compatible with an r32gtr? I was told R33 rack's are interchangeable, is this true? What about just regular 32 gts-t racks pr26se too? My rack is bent slightly causing tram tracking in the steering. Cheers.

Could you please respond to my PM I sent yesterday Andrew.

Spend the money on an aftermarket ECU and just do it right. This sounds like a budget build but there's still thing's you need to cough for no matter what. Nistune maybe a smart economical invesment. http://www.nistune.com/ Also if you do indeed have r33 turbo injectors it will not run on the current ecu, as already mentioned.

This is the first I have read about it, but if that's true I need to go put another litre in mine. But how would that effect his oil pressure? or is the extra oil just for impurities from a recent build?

Item: Coil Packs Age: 1994-5 Condition: Second Hand but all good no cracks at all Price: $20 each To Fit: (What car) 20/25/26 (No integrated ignitor so not for R33 S2) Location: Brisbane, Browns Plains/Regents Park Contact: PM me Comments: Have a couple of spare coil packs, all in working cond. Much cheaper than Nissan's price.

What about going straight into the standard boost solenoid vac line seeing has it wont be used anymore? Provided you haven't already used that for something else.

yeah your mistake was re-assembling it with factory bearings after having previous issues, I would say the crank was still bad when you re-assembled it. As mentioned by someone else already factory bearings will be OK as long as the crank has not sustained any damage, and I would say the clearances are out on whatever number it lost. Pull it down again and take it to a machine shop/engine builder. Get them to check the crank/block/cradle and fit aftermarket bearings to suit the crank, depending on if they can polish it out or whatever. I myself would probably source another crank but and still take it to a machine shop to be checked.

If you have a multimeter check the output on the coil pack plugs to see if you getting 12V with ign on and constant earth, then crank it and see if your getting a firing signal earth from the ignitor. I would agree that the ignitor is probably damage after that but. I don't think it has anything to do with the silicon you have used, just a coil pack gone bad. If you don't have a multimeter just rig up a 12v test light will do the same job.