James_03

yeah I bought new OEM nissan rb25 studs and used them because im lazy. worked fine for me with decent power. Otherwise you will be able to drill/tapp the block as others have already stated.

Regents Park, Brisbane. Ebay dumps are now sold.

Item: Factory r32 gtr dumps and HKS style ebay dumps Age: Ebay dumps couple of months, Factory dumps 18 yrs Condition: Both good Price: Offers on both To Fit: r32 GTR Location: Brisbane Contact: PM Comments: Ok ebay HKS style dumps don't fit properly and will need to modified as I could not fit them myself. The angle appears to be wrong on the rear, some chump sold them to me second hand but still new so he obviously couldn't get them to fit either (but of course neglected to tell me that). There worth very little to me. The factory dumps are in good condition and were removed to install genuine HKS dumps with screamers so no longer required.

Yes its factory.

Your probably not going to be able to tell those things simply by looking at those pictures. I can tell you that it will be ceramic exhaust wheel, and I believe it will be BB core too. But someone else may be able to confirm as some of the early vg30's I think may have been 360 thrust.

dont get ebay dumps man

There 9.5 comp ratio. So you could get away with moderately low boost with a good tune but not ideal.

yeah I had this prob a little while back on one of my first builds, ended up making a custom washer about 1cm thick that fits over the stud and is ground away on an angle underneath to suit the block. Hardest part is getting the correct angle on the washer underneath so that when the tensioner torques down, it doesn't come off centre, had it done in a day of mucking around with the grinder tho.

Hi Guys, I recently purchased a HKS EVC 1, now when I put power up to the controller all the lights come on as per normal. What is worrying me but is the control valve makes a cycling buzzing noise. ie it will buzz then stop, buzz, stop, etc etc. I am suspect on the solenoid being bad, has anyone experienced this with there evc before? Does anyone hear this from there own when powering on? Cheers.

Item: rb26 ecu, 26 loom, rb25 block w/crank, 600x300x76 cooling pro fmic Age: Various Condition: Second hand/New Price: ECU $50, $100 loom, $150 rb25 block/crank, $100 fmic To Fit: Skidliner Location: Brisbane Contact: PM me or call 0409588830 Comments: Standard 26 ECU tested OK, 26 loom missing injector plugs, rb25 block low k's with crank very good cond, New 600x300x76 cooling pro fmic

Hey guys, Just after some feedback, I am currently building another rb26/30. My last motor I used an idler below the water pump and a tensioner in the new location. I used cobra30's orginal page before the rb30det guide was about, that motor is still running fine. I have since read that this exceeds the factory timing belt tension, so is it worth while going two tensioner's this time top and bottom as in the guide to bring it back to 20kgs? More importantly who is running the original idler/tensioner setup, and have they had any issues arise from this, ala cam gears coming off or the like? Cheers.

Ill take the greddy timing cover. btw clear your inbox mate can't pm you

you shouldn't need to drill and tap anything, there are holes in the rb30 block that suite. I just did what gtrben did worked fine.

Item: 1994 r32 gtr loom Age: duh Condition: second hand Price: $200 To Fit: Modified for r31 but will fit others. Location: Brisbane Contact: PM me Comments: Have for sale a rb26 loom modified for r31. The injector plugs have been cut off as it was running rx7 injectors at the time. Condition of the loom apart from the missing plugs is excellent.

I don't think the AFM is causing this and by the look of those return voltages you have it wired up correctly. I would hazard a guess and say that the poor afr's have since fouled the plugs up hence why it has difficulty starting. Change or clean up the existing plugs, then switch the ECU over into diags and see if it throws up any error codes re AFM or otherwise. Should start with some replacement plugs but.

I thought pics would make the whole process a bit easier for you.

Oil seal on turbo has gone, and in return has fouled plugs. Step 1, remove plugs and replace. Step 2, pull off turbo and replace/reco. Step 3, clean IC piping to prevent further fouling of the plugs. The end.

1. Either way, more options available 26 way but. 2. Standard cams, go pon cams if anything. 3. Yes I have used them, prefer mls gaskets but less dicking around. 4. Only if your going copper gasket 5. No 6. Yes, ati to be safe but. 7. 35r as previously mentioned.

Yeah you should be right to swap the loom out yourself. Basically just involves taking the kick panel out, unplugging the ecu/acc plug and ign/eccs relays. Then remove the plastic underside of the gaurd which will expose the loom behind the front quarter panel, its easier to then removal the quarter panel itself as well just gives you more room to play with. Then just remove both the rubber seals and the loom will start to come through from the inside of the car. As far as wiring is concerned you can also do this yourself with a bit of guidance. I am not entirely sure but I think you may even be able to plug the 26 loom straight in to the white accessories plug from the standard r33 dash loom which would make it a plug and plug job. Verify that with someone else but. As for the power-fc, that all depends on how much power you want to achieve, the standard gtr afm's have enough scope to see you make some decent power, I think 250rwkw has been achieved with them pretty safely. After that you start to walk into z32 or nismo territory which starts costing decent money, apart from the fact that you need to do additional wiring as well. You do have a menu option in the standard power-fc for 2x rb25 gts-t afm's which are cheaper to setup and will handle just about any power you can throw at them, obviously also requires re-wiring. Personal preference but I would spend the money on the d-jetro to begin with and be done with it.

lol 10k, chump.

yeah go with the 26 head, and sell the 25. What I would probably do is sell the 25 head and then invest the money into a rebuild on the 26 ie new stem seals, valve regrind, etc. Obviously if the head is recently rebuilt but you wouln't need to do this. The 25 head on the 26 would involve modifying the head to use 26 head studs as already mentioned, and also running an external feed for the vvt, or you loose the vvt cam gear and also change cams. You mentioned you had tomei cams, are you still using the vvt cam gear then? Also the shape of the water gallery on the 25 vvt head differs from the 26 block/head. It also needs slight modifying so that it has optimum flow. Then you need an adapter plate made up to use the 26 throttles which trust me, is a complete pain in the arse.

Never went on the dyno mate so couldn't tell you sorry. Just had afr's checked with a wideband and away it went.

power-fc, otherwise late model SAFC with the oem ecu, all depends on how simple you keep it. my first motor was one of these in an aus spec 31, mid range is great. Used rb25de non turbo pistons and ran off the OEM ecu entirely. It was a fairly basic setup but just hi comp with hacked up rb30 extractors to suit the 25 head.

Yeah I am currently using factory oil/water feed lines with my low mount rr580 setup on a 26/30. You have to pull them upwards slightly due to the extra deck hieght of the block, but with a bit of mucking around they fit fine. Just take your time when doing it and don't change the inside diameter of the pipe by bending them too quickly. I found extra length in myn by changing the loops that they have slightly.

Where exactly did he find it out mechanically? Was the actual CAS out or where the timing gears out with the balancer at TDC? I would say its related somehow to the adj cam gears you have, who installed them?. Two small things to check: 1. Mark it first and remove the CAS, check the half moon locator is still on the end of the cam shaft inside. If this is missing you can still set the CAS timing and generally it will stay OK for a bit as the rubber seal on the end of it is enough to hold it, but once its under load or driven for a while it will come out again, sometimes it will come out again quickly other times not. Whilst you have it out, move the shaft in and out, there should be no play in it at all, neither side to side, take care when doing this but. 2. Then make sure you are running the top timing cover, or have spacers behind the CAS and the main CAS bracket. Otherwise this slowly flogs it out depending on how tight the bolts are done up, and will eventually cause the CAS to fail, and will do lots of weird and wonderful things with timing right up to this point. Probably not either of those things but minor oversights I have seen happen that cause people a head-ache, incl myself lol.