James_03

This should help you out mate. I found this on the net ages ago, I just did a minor edit to it in ms paint just then and added the rb26dett pinouts which I verified against the service manual, I thought that would come in handy on here so I added it. They are indentical to the rb20det silvertop pinouts as you can see. So all you need to do is compare the late model ECR33 diagram against the rb26 and change the plug accordingly. R33 S2 AFM's are pink label 3 pin outs, R33 S1 are green label 4 pin outs. What I did with my R33 S2 AFM's was I took the top off them, un-soldered and removed the plug, then did the same with the GTR afm's. What you can then do is carefully trim back the terminals inside the R33 AFM's then screw in the GTR plug, then wire it accordingly inside using short wire and solder it. Then seal them back up again. Its alot of effort to go to, but it means you don't have to cut the standard loom just plug and play. Or just cut the loom lol.

Your probably better off sourcing another bottom end, then building that up in the mean time. At least that way your not without the car for weeks on end while you take it all out. Could probably just sell your bottom end on them to re-coupe costs. If its making that power now and the tune is good there is no reason why it shouldn't last. Cheers.

Im running an early r33 gtr loom in my r32 gtr and there were no complications at all for me, straight swap in. Should be fine mate. Cheers.

My guess is that you may have accidently over tightned the bolts holding down the retainers when you fixed it previously, or possibly mismatched the retainers. Each retainer is numbered in order and also must go the correct way up, the nissan service manual will then state the correct torque settings for each bolt, and the order in which they must be done up. I would say its unlikely the valves have sustained any damage yet. Your best bet would be to pick up a set of second hand gtr cams, the best place to source them is most likley here off the for sale forums as people upgrade cams frequently. Once you have done that take the head in to a specialist to have them check all the tolerances out and pressure test whilst your there, if you do go this way get the stem seals replaced whilst your at it, and get a price on a valve regrind. That's a pretty big job but as it involves removing the head obviously, so you could get away with simply fitting another second hand exhaust cam and check all the retainers and torque settings are correct. Make sure you use cam assembly lube, then turn the motor over by hand to begin with and make sure it does not lock up at any stage. Then again before starting remove the CAS connector, and perform a compression test on the motor by using the starter motor. Compare this comp test with the factory settings to know if you have possible valve damage, then you have no choice but to remove the head. Remember with both cam's torqued down you should be able to move both intake and exhaust cam wheels by hand, not too much but as you will make contact with the piston crowns if the head is still torqued down, if you cant move the cams slowly in either direction is not right.

When taking the retainers off you slowly release each one gradually so it supports the cam where the lobes may still be against the lifters. Ppl cut sick and take them completely off one by one which = above. You fix it by buying a new cam now, if you have not removed the cam previously then I would say it may be running a mismatched retainer possibly from another head. This can also cause this to occur.

Thanks very much for that mate. Cheers.

Hey guys, Is there currently someone making custom pick-up pipes to suit the standard rb30 pickup location with the 4wd sump? I saw picks on here where someone had made it I think Pro Engines, but I went to look for there ebay store or a website but nothing. Cheers.

Yeah has both tie rods but don't want to seperate sorry. Cheers.

yeah still got it.

poo turbo.

No thats not correct. The S2 pink label R33 AFM has 3 terminals. With the AFM facing towards you and the flow arrow pointing ===> they are: pin 1: 12v from eccs relay pin 2: Ground pin 3: Signal The Green label R33 S1 AFM however uses 2 grounds. The first is an ECU ground, the second is a Chassis ground. This is the same scope and dimensions as a rb20det silvertop AFM, the terminal outputs are slightly different but both 80mm. Here is something a found on the net ages ago that I dig up when I need it:

bump.

Still for sale guys, just low ballers off boostcruising. Now there's a suprise.

Switch ECU onto diags mode, watch the engine light flash on the cluster, you more than likely will have an error code.

bump. Genuine Work Equip wheels guys PM me some offers, not using them just in the garage.

yeah had spacers on the front, I think they were 5mm from memory. not sure on postage to vic sorry. The rears go straight on a r32gtr, the front gaurds need slight flaring with spacers, otherwise there OK.

bump.

bump swap 4 turbos.

bump.

bump

bumps.

Just be really carefull clamping the return line man hey. Check fuel line pressure, then injectors, then check fault codes on the ecu.

Had alot of PM's asking width. Checked again tonight fronts are 19x10 rears are 19x10.5 Cheers.

Turbos must be to the same value or very close. These are genuine Work Equip's not Starcorp immitations, the price is already very low ppl. Send me some specs boosted. daily bump.

Rim width is in the post, I don't know what they came off. I have no idea if they will fit a supra use the above measurements to find out.