James_03

Yeah looks like it might be OK. Ill offer $60. Don't think its quite worth $100 its nothing special. Cheers.

what series rb25 man? I think this would only work with the r32 style intake on the early rb25's. If it works with the later series intakes consider it sold cos I will take it. Cheers.

Hey man whats happening? Ill buy these off you if you want. Cheers.

Hey mate will the top feed fuel rail work with the stock intake plenum? Im guessing not, very interested if it does but. Cheers.

yeah ill take them man. pm me your details. cheers man.

yeah got a trust adj gear lined up off here. Cheers man.

Ill take the cam gear. Cheers.

Hi guys, I want to disable VCT on my rb30det. Now I have a spare exhaust cam from a rb20det silvertop. It has the orange marker on it and the spline for the CAS so I know its exhaust. Just wanted to know if there will be any issues with running this as my intake cam and taking the VCT cam out. I have a regular cam gear I can use for it here. I looked at the cam specs from the rb30det pdf cubes put together and apparently the rb20det exhaust is just like the rb25 intake. What you guys reckon will it work ok? Cheers.

Hey guys rebuilding another rb30 atm but need some opinions. Basically the lower cam belt drive that goes on the crank shaft has seized onto the crank. I have cleaned up the crank after the oil pump and taken the surface rust off it but I cannot for the life of me get the drive off. I have been trying to wedge it with 2 screw drivers from each side, I dont care about the oil pump as I have another anyone. So does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can get this off without grinding it off? Also for the oil pump could I get away with using a liquid gasket for it instead of the usual gasket? Has anyone does this and how did it go? Cheers for any help guys.

You could also possibly look at importing something over from japan using the yahoo forums and an agent like rinkya. Friend of myn picked up a worked rb20 for $600 which included td06, high mount manifold, metal head gasket and some tomei stuff in there too. Freight of course is the killer but boat isnt too bad if your prepared to wait. He was also able to obtain a recent comp test via fax but again it could come over and be totally rubish. But meh worth the risk and most of the time its ok. Failing that like others have said obtain a second hand complete motor if you can and swap it over, even a long and just swap your other stuff onto it.

Yeah the vct has been blocked off and no I have not hit a gallery where the tensioner goes. Ill sort it out, I just thought someone may have experienced the same thing.

Its the r33 vct head, head has been skimmed but block has not. Using a monotorque rb30 head gasket but was previously running genuine nissan rb30.

Hey guys I am having trouble with a rb30det I have built. Basically when its idling it has an oil leak at the front of the motor which leaks down the front of the block above the water pump and below the front of the head it then runs down the front of the water pump. I suspect its coming from the head somewhere. Now as you rev the motor it gets worse and begins to dribble out. I have just put hours of work into it trying to figure it out. It was running a GTR oil pump which I thought may have been causing it, but first I swapped the head over with another rb25 head I had thinking it may have been warped at the front. I put that head on with a new gasket and it leaks from exactly the same place. I have since today replaced the oil pump with a regular rb30 item. Again it leaks from exactly the same place. It leaks badly from the right of the head, and a little from the left. It doesn't leak anywhere down the sides or rear of the block. Any suggestions guys? Has anyone run into this before, really has me stumped and I would really appreciate any help I can get at all. Cheers.

Hey guys I am trying to find the flow rates for the rb30e oil pump versus the GTR and rb25 pump. If someone has the flow rates for all three that would be great. Cheers.

Use there online inquiry form if you wish to ask something. http://www.nengun.com/enquiry/default/website

yeh I probably wouldn't recommend running a 20 year old n/a fuel pump.

Ok a couple of things, first check the timing is good, sounds like it may be out 1-2 on the exhaust or intake timing. Then check that the VVT solenoid has been wired up, this is often not wired up, it is probably not causing this issue but check it anyway, its 12v live is also shared with the idle control valve and the o2 heater, should show 12v live with ign on ground it against the car. Check the gap on your plugs and for any cracks in the packs. Also check that the block has been modified to suit the r33 exhaust manifold, if you have not done this then the head will not sit flush on the block and it may show symptoms like this. and then lastly switch the ECU over into diagnostic mode and check to see if it spits back any error codes. Should show code 55 for all sensors OK. Then probably wouldn't harm to go to mode 2 or whatever it is and check the afr's when it breaks down. The led is on for lean off for rich, if its stays on either of these when breaking down then check your fuel system accordingly. Thats for single led ECU's Edit: wait a minute your not still using the stock vl fuel pump are you?

Providing you don't run it anymore you should be able to clean the crank up easy enough. You can usually just put new shells in after checking the rods/big end caps too. I doubt regular fuel killed it, I would say the rebuild was shite to begin with.

shotgun afm.

I have had offers for both via PM man for 300 so I don't think so at this stage. Cheers anyway.

bump. plz try to keep offers in the thread too not via PM. Thanks.

Updated with prices.

All items sold please remove.

got a stock rb25det ecu?

got a stock rb25det ecu?