James_03

The only grey top JECS injector I am aware of its the sr/ka grey top side feed injector, which is 370 anyway. Obviously it won't be a side feed injector, in which case I think he has looked at the colour in bad light. A purple colour would probably make more sense as its a NISMO/JECS 550cc injector which is probably what he has. I reckon there NISMO 550 purple tops, its the most common upgrade for the 26 anyway. Get him to check the colour again man and the part number hey.

yeah remap ftw froggy. else second hand pfc.

No its here somewhere, which is why someone if working on a xd/xf falcon in background. Its just that if you say its in Australia SOMEWHERE people might be able to steal it.

done. and yeah it probably was someone off here, and if it was shame on you.

Yeah we could be onto something here man. Ill PM you yeah.

yeah someone said it was in HPI #60 by blitz but I have been thru the whole blitz catalogue now and I can't find it. So yeah don't know if they even exist at this stage. See what happens.

because I have a complete rb26 plennum at home and I would rather have the individual throttles too. I was going to get a greddy knock off until I went and had a look at one, nasty.

Hey guys has anyone used the blitz adaptor to convert the 26 plennum for use on the 25? I read somewhere that autobahn can get a hold of them? Does anyone know what they are worth or if they can be obtained elsewhere? I just know autobahn will try rip me, I will call them shortly just cant call atm so thought I would get ppls opinion first.

No it doesn't matter, the proof in that is your results which are pretty much spot on.

I couldn't tell you sorry man. I haven't had much to do with NICS heads, someone else may know but.

wouldn't you have to cut the standard dump pipe up to do this on a standard internal gated turbo? edit: and I am pretty sure they are illegal man, anything that doesn't go via the cat is pretty much illegal.

don't know about NICS but silvertop rb20 lifters will work, I know this because I swapped a set into a rb25 head last week and its fine. Cheers.

Hey guys can someone give me some info in refference to what manual gearbox rb25de r33's run? I am under the assumption that they are similar spec to the rb20det's gearbox's with dual synchros? Can anyone confirm?

There's 2 seals for the crank man, rear main seal and front main seal. Also I don't really understand how its possible for the seal to do that. rb30's that I have taken apart with 450,000 ks on them do not have any signs of wear around the front or rear main seal area, just doesn't happen. So yeah more info, and even then if it is worn for some obscure reason, I would recommend fixing it properly, and if that involved motor out, then so be it.

just making sure the win was certain hey.

Tune it for 250, then see if its worth spending the extra money getting it to 300. Most people are content with 250 once they get it.

Its hard to say man, if its like the yumcha turbos I have seen then yeah it may achieve better power for a little while as it wont have a ceramic exhaust wheel, will hit boost much later but, and probably also has a mis matched exhuast side. I simply would not run it incase it damages the motor, and they have been known to completely collapse. I mean for $200 you really do run a pretty big risk. I would have high flowed the nissan turbo personally.

The top actuator helps close the wastegate off, the opposite of the first actuator. At least thats how most duals work.

its one of those yumcha turbos with a daul port actuator on it. and it probably wont make that power figure.

yeah just an update guys was sold ba falcon springs, got the correct springs last thursday. I didn't actually see the springs at all until they came back from tony because I had them delivered direct from where I bought them straight to the workshop. anyway all sorted.

Ill be getting the rb25de injectors I have done this too tuned very shortly on a MT8 so I will post back with results. I have some back up injectors there if it goes to shit but. See how bad the idle is.

I don't know if you already do this but just a suggestion, I always use wd40 when taking off exhaust studs, let it soak in for about 30 mins then hit it again before you take them off. I snapped a few previously before I started doing this, seem to have a higher success rate now.

he is most likely running oem ecu as thats what the error code is from. Have you reset it yet? If not I would be trying that first.

Check all the engine earths and also the earth on the headlights, make sure there is no corrosion build up around these areas. Did both headlights blow at the same time? or did only one go and then you decided to replace both? Alternator could also be on its last legs, you need to see what the current jump is on the battery with a multimeter when you start the car to know if its dieing. You can check the alternator directly too but you still need to grab a multimeter. Check the earths first, also put the inerior light on and the A/C and see if it will die by using other items.

I am gettig one this afternoon. Will need to probably clean it up with a dremel but arounf the water jackets but meh. At least I can run top feed injectors now without having to make some gay spacer up for the stock plennum. Thats my main reason for getting it. Also save on the piping. and no I couldn't have just got side feed injectors I aleady had 700cc top feeds doing nothing thats why. Anyway I have a pretty decent camera now so when I get myn I can put some really hi res pics up if enough people are keen to see one up really close.