James_03

You could probably just use a multi meter to find the live come up the existing wires then just tap into that and re-wire the backlight.

on a stock long block too. now thats awsome.

is it running splitfires? stock? wastedspark? what plugs too.

Ill go $150 pp on the plate. Cheers.

Ok so its overfueling like a mofo. Easy way to diagnose whats behind it is to just run the ECU in diag mode and it will flash back the warning code relevant to the problem part. Failing this if you have a spare AFM there or if a mate has one you can put on just for testing and see how that goes. I would be inclined to think its an afm issue at this stage. If it is run a knife around the top and open it up, then check for dry solder joints on the terminals as this can be a common issue and one you can repair yourself by re-soldering them.

Will this suit a r32 gtr, obviously bar the front pipes?

I would replace all the conrod bearings now for sure. If it even began to turn over under the load of the starter then it would have marked the surface of the shells now.

So did you use standard rb20 bearings again on the rebuild? What you mean by correct grade bearings I have not heard of such a thing. Sounds like you have used the wrong bearings to me. You shouldnt need to install custom bearings or machine them at all, the crank is hardened, at least thats what I understood. Anyway out of the 6 complete rebuilds I have done all of them used the same crank again with just new shells, then just tip oil on the crank and shells before installing. My rebuilt rb30 in the garage turns over by hand very easy.

I can tell you a way of making your own, I have been for a while and it works great. Go down to any auto place and purchase some gasket material, sort of like cardboard its pretty cheap. Then lay it down accross the intel manifold and get a hammer with a round end on it (a small hammer works best), then gently hit the gasket around the edges and it will cut it away. Works much better than and gasket goo, just have to be careful when doing it you do not damage the surface of the inlet manifold by hitting it too hard. The rb25/nics its a different style inlet so its not interchangable. That or go get fisted by nissan for a genuine.

That is your problem there. The motor will still start without the AFM albeit very rough, you need to keep the throttle open on about half too. There will be a plug with spade terminals near the AFM plug on that same branch of loom, you need to give the injectors a 12V live on one of the terminals as there is a seperate loom in the skylines that takes care of the 12V live for the injectors, its not done thru the ecu loom at all, the ecu only pulses ground signals to the injectors. On my r31 I hooked it up to the eccs relay which works fine. It will be a red wire on this plug. If you need more info just ask I can mebe take some pics or whatever. Dont hook a direct 12V line up to the injectors, it must be done thru a relay or you will damage them, you should also install a 10 amp inline fuse for them. Did you also check the 12V on the coil packs? They are supplied 12V thru the eccs relay, which you also need to give a 12V live from the orginal VL loom above where the rb30e ECU was located near the kick panel.

Sensors wont matter no, and moving the cas shouldnt really effect it. Just set the cas up with the 3 screws in the middle and leave it. Sounds to me like its a fuel related issue still, take the return pipe off and with the ign on check to make sure it primes out of the rail ok. Also what car is this in, an r33 I take it? Also take one injector and coil pack plug off and test to make sure they both have a constant 12V with ign on.

price on gearbox plz?

Ill get some pics up shortly. The rb25 head has cas, cams, retainers, coil packs, pack cover, cam gears. No exhaust many, and no intake many. You can get forward facing intakes but like greddy etc. There are some cheap ebay one's too.

Providing your loom came with the eccs and ign relays which is should have, then you should have a spare green relay left over near the kick panel. Use that, if its still there. Otherwise go the wreckers and grab another one off a r31.

negative. 33's are side feed.

yeah found out what it was, the valves were bent. At first glance it appears to be fine but when looking under each valve from the side they are slightly bent. I suspect it was over reved, going to need new valves.

Spark plugs in yeah, rings are ok as I took the head off and put it onto a known good bottom end. Brand new head gasket too. I suspect on the seats for now, taking the head off now to check it out again. Tested with a comp gauge and it registered 0 accross all 6. Its torqued down to spec too.

Hey guys trying to get a silvertop motor going here and have a very annoying prob. I got the motor off someone and it had no compression. So I get it home and rip the head off expecting to see scored bores the rings lands melted etc. Upon inspection and taking the bottom end apart it was completely fine. So then I check the head out, turn both the inlet and exhaust over and all the valves etc are moving fine. So I put it back together but when cranking it over it the starter motor does not strain what so ever like there is no compression. So I thought the timing may have been out but its all good, cams on TDC and bottom end on TDC too. But still just turns over way too easy, I am suspect on either the inlet or exhaust no completely sealing off which may cause it. About to go out and get a comp tester, but I am 90% sure it will show nothing. Any suggestion what could cause this? I have no exhaust many on, but that shouldnt matter.

Rb20 packs will work on a 25 yes.

As title says guys I have 2 heads for sale. 1. r32 eccs silvertop head complete with cams and intake less injectors. Done low k's and the head itself is in very good condition. $250 2. r33 vvt head. Again low k's head, 36,000 to be exact. Has been modified to suit an rb30 block, water gallerie modified and external oil feed for vvt. Simply put the head on a 30 block and run an oil line up from the sender location with a T piece. $450 3. Fully rebuilt stroked rb22 bottom end. Brand new ACL bearings, new rings, new water pump, uses rb25 crank etc. Came with the above rb20 head, block is in excellent condition no corrosion or anything ready for use. $600 Open to reasonable offers but.

btw master power dont make garrett internals, they never have and most likley never will.

Hey guys after a front exhaust pipe stock or 3" doesnt matter from a 32/33. This is the pipe that runs from the dump back to the first cat. I would preffer brisbane ppl and I can pick-up tomorrow with cash. Cheers.

Fair enough, I have had a few conflicting opionions from people. I had a mechanical before which was good, but yeah running the oil line is a payne in the arse. My friend had his electric gauge checked against a really good mechanical and the difference was substantial. But I guess that comes down to the quality of the gauge itself.

Hey guys just on this topic, I just want some other ideas on what people think of mech vs electric gauges. I am a bit worried about electronic gauges in regards to how they measure oil pressure against different senders etc, I just dont think that different model gauges would register the same and accurate readings, same goes for the senders. So would I be better off with a mechanical? Who here has an electric one and what do you think of it accuracy wise? Also are there any other issue between the two that should be noted? Also what could one expect to pay for a decent electric gauge without paying autometer tax. Any recommendations? Thanks.

As per title I have 2x 15" and 2x 16" black wantanabe rims for sale. 16" Offset is +38 the 15" are +20. Still has the stickers on the inside from star corp and the japanese inspectors signature. Instant is $400 which is pretty fekin cheap. I bought the 4 with rubber for $700 but have never fitted them, mainly because my r31 still isnt running. Anyway $400 take them away, stick them on ebay or something and make a profit I just need them gone. Pic: Cheers guys.