James_03

Hey guys, I am after some help from any tuners on here, but all advice welcome. Specs on engine: rb30det rb26 head with Trust 272 cams, 10.5 lift, ported on in and ex, HKS step 2 springs Bottem end is 9:1 CP's, forged rods, standard 26 pump with long nose drive Intake is a yum cha but one of the better ones, still uses factory 26 intermediate plate for injectors 1000CC ID injectors PowerFC Borg Warner S366, 66mm comp, 91 AR, T4 footprint T4 HKS exhaust mani 3.5 exhaust 50mm synchronic gate Now the issue is the car has no low down torque. It's just rediculously bad. Once it hits boost it's pretty good, but anything below 4000 is shit. Last tune they told me it was down on torque quite alot, and a dyno graph comparing a standard 26 it beat me for low down torque. Mechanically I can't think of anything that could be causing it. Where should I start? The tuner couldn't tell me why it was like that. Cheers.

I actually felt less intelligent after reading that response. There are so many things wrong with that paragraph I don't even know where to begin, and because your an idiot, seeing you spend all your cash being "different" might actually be a good learning exercise for you.

Mate no offence, but you know f**k all. People are trying to give you good advice here. Do you know why VCT was introduced? It was primarily introduced to help lower exhaust emissions and improve fuel economy. If you don't want your build to end up in a pile of shit, then I would suggest you drop the know it all attitude and starting listening to people. Your hell bent on going individual throttles, yet you don't want to go a 26 head, but you would rather spend what a 26 head costs modding your 25 head so it can run ITB's? About the only thing it will do is maybe give it marginally better low down throttle response, but that will probably be totally negated by all the negatives of blowing the runner length out.

Cmon dude, flowing the intake? It's a motor that now has low comp due to an internal failure. It's pointless, and even if it was the manifold, how would you link it to a failure like low comp? Doesn't make sense. You should be able to see signs of det with a bore scope. Even if the crown has nothing, it has low comp which means rings, which means the bore will have drag marks all over it where the rings lands have failed. When I said clearances I said probably, which means it may or may not be that. Just about every second failure I have seen has been either: 1. Incorrect ring clearances 2. Incorrect bearing clearances I would put money on it being either of the above, pending it's a well known tuner, who of course ran it up himself.

Flow testing the intake is just the builder/tuner postponing the inevitable, which they both know is finding the real cause of the failure and deciding who's going to pick up the tab. It's not going to tell you anything, and it won't be the plennum at fault. I would be asking to view the det damage personally through the scope, it's pretty easy to see as the crown of the piston will show signs straight away. If there's no det damage then the ring clearances were probably wrong, and you need to do a leak down on all cylinders. If it's a fairly well known tuner, then I doubt there to blame. You need to get personally involved in finding the cause, otherwise your just going to get fed BS like flowing this intake.

Any reasonable offers before it goes up on fleabay?

bump.

Plenty of interest, but no cash lol.

It's for a r32/r33. The r34 have a different CAS drive on the end of the EX cam as I am sure you aware. Yes they are from Jackie, they are 270 duration and 9.15 lift. You could only get PON type B's in 264 9.15 before. I don't know if jackie get the specially done or if tomei just released these.

Hi Guys, I had just my cams up for sale before, now I am selling an rb26 head with it too. So I have: rb26 head recently reconditioned Tomei rb26 270 duration 9.15 lift cams Head has been ported Aftermarket springs Brand new shims to suit the Tomei camshafts Camtech aftermarket cams with original shims to suit Basically I bought the head for 3k fully rebuilt, since then it would have done maybe 4 thousand k's. It had camtech cams in it and made 400awhp on 14 psi. I then wanted to fit the tomei cams instead. In the process of doing so a mate of myn accidentally damaged 2 of the valves on number 6. So it will need both of the exhaust valves replaced on number 6, then it's good to go again. All other valves have been checked and are fine. I was quoted about $400 through a cylinder head reco place. Price is $1500 firm, which is cheap. $900 for new cams alone, shims cost me $250 from down south. Location is Regents Park 4118. If you need shipping that's fine, but I won't be including shipping at this price. Can txt me on 0409588830 or PM. Cheers.

Cheers mate.

Hi guys, Got my tomei rb26 poncams 270 dur 9.15 lift up for sale. Cams are brand new still in the box, basically I am removing the head and going bigger cams so won't be using/needing these any longer. Price is $700. Cheapest I found on the net new is $939, so your saving $200 straight up, my loss your gain. One of the largest drop in cams you can get, only thing close is HKS step 1 which are only 8 lift. Location is Brisbane 4118. Cheers.

The injectors will be gummed up, fairly common thing with them. If you have spark then you can rule the CAS out, remove the injectors from the intake but keep all the lines on, then crank the car with the rail removed and check they are working. You probably won't have to get new injectors, generally if you remove each injector from the rail, then gently tap on the injector body with a screw driver this is enough to get the pintle working again. Then put each one back in the rail. I bought a brand new set of Nismo injectors a while back, had been sitting in there boxes for about 2 years, chucked them in the car but nothing was working. Removed them and tapped on the body, starting working again. Cheers.

Thanks for the DVS. Attached is clearances as per manual. Would I be right to just follow this?

All good, I dug up the r32 gtr workshop manual and it's all in there. Must learn to rtfw before posting. Any pointers that might make life easier for me but, do tell. It looks like that actually use 2 feeler gauges to check it in the manual..

Hey guys, I have a "noisy" rb26 head. I bought it reconditioned off another guy with camtech cams in it. It was still in the bubble wrap from the head reconditioners when I got it. Since then the motor is finished and running very well and making good power, but it still needs to be looked at as I can't leave it like it is, it's not excessive noise, but definately louder than your average rb26 with noisy injectors clicking away I understand a feeler gauge is used to check between the lifter and cam for excess clearance yes? Can someone give me a very brief run down on what I have to do in order too check them? I understand the cams might have to come out and back in a few times, I am cool with all that. Cheers for any help.

Nah no power runs yet, just had a run in tune done so far. I will complete the run in this weekend and back for a proper tune next week.

Yeah I just finished building the motor just recently, still only has 500k's on it. I regret not doing a little bit more head work now, ie exhaust side before it went on. I might contemplate it later on down the track. Here are some pics for you Mike, don't mind the shitty welds it's pretty back yard spec. I do love the s366 but, sounds like a 51r when it spools awesome turbo's for the price. Cheers.

Thanks for the input guys I appreciate it.

Good point you make mlr. Yeah I probably won't be venturing past 7000rpm. Maybe I should just keep what's in there, it has camtech at the moment but I have nfi what thspecs. I might take another look at the rb30 power thread and see what people are doing on stockers. What would be your recommendation Dan? You must have seen a few of these came through your workshop by now.

Turbo is a borg warner S366 with .91 A/R on a lowmount HKS manifold.

Yeh I can, but it's probably going to require springs and possibly retainers but, and then maybe the head clearanced as well. If I could get away with doing just springs, then I would look at it.

Yep it's a recently recod rb26 head with mild porting on in/ex. Has CP rb30det specific pistons in it giving a CR of about 9:1. Like you I am after more mid range response then all out power. Just trying to find out what would be more beneficial to the 30 bottom end, either more duration with the HKS items, or less duration and more lift with the tomei? I have been told the tomei type B's are a good all rounder, so leaning that way. Cheers.

Hey guys, Choice between 272 cams and 8 lift, or 264 and 9 or so lift? What would people go?

Hey guys, I had my rb26/30 tuned yesterday after finishing the build on it finally, all running well. I bought a rb26 reconditioned head for it a while back that supposedly had camtech cams in it. The person I bought it from also told me it had springs. Long story short it's running fine, but the head is "noisy". I was told the clearances need to be done by the tuner, and he's probably right. I take it this means the shims all need to be checked yes? So my questions is, I would like to chuck in a set of Tomei Pro Cams, 272's with 9.15 lift. Without taking all the head apart, how can I check if it has better springs in it? The idea is to chuck new 272's in it, then do the shims at the same time but I will obviously need better springs for the 272's which hopefully already have. The camtech cams had serial numbers etched into them, but I am still sus on the springs being stockers. It there a tool I can get to check the spring rate? Cheers.