James_03

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PM's replied.

Any interest guys?

Hey guys, I have an rb30 crank here. It has been machined for undersize bearings and has been grub screwed. Also has a long nose drive which was not just a collar, but a full weld up and machine job. I was given this by a mate who owed me a bit of cash, he was building a rb30det but later ended up just dropping in a rb25det as he needed his car back on the road for work. I am selling cheap because I just don't need it, and I can't say 100 percent that I had the work done myself etc because it was given to me. It does appear to be in good cond but would probably need a polish after sitting, it has some grit on it too as per pictures. If you want to come and check it out for yourself that's fine, I am in Regents Park 4118 QLD just drop me a PM. Any more questions ask away. Cheers.

I have found plastigauge to be fairly good in the past. Also don't go out and purchase bearings until you know the condition of the crank, no point purchasing standard bearings then finding out the crank needs to be ground. If you want to run with standard shells, then find a low k's motor is probably what you want to be doing. The higher the k's, the more chance the tolerances will be out. Cheers.

Both the BLOCK and SUMP are different from a regular rb20. You will need a gts-4 engine to retain 4wd.

Ok cool thanks for that guys. Maybe just getting a bit overboard with things, just like making sure it's right but.

Yeah checked the bores they came up fine. Was honed at Mendham a few months back for 86.5 with a torque plate. Basically I think the CP ring orientation is wrong. They recommend having the 1st and 2nd ring gaps on either end of the thrust surface, and I have read this to be wrong in multiple other places. I have attached CP and Nissan way, CP is a little hard to read but basically the 1st and 2nd gaps are on either end of the thrust surfaces, and nissan has them offset. Big thanks to Greg at Pro Engines too for his advice last night at like midnight lol.

Hey guys, Putting together a rb30dett tonight with CP pistons. So far I have 3 pistons in and installed. I am following the CP guide for ring orientation etc. I have put a bit of oil in the bores before dropping them in, basically when I turn it over 2 of the pistons are leaving a small oil streak as they go down the bore probably 2-3mm thick, whilst the one other left does not do this. Just wondering if this is normal? Or could there be something wrong with the ring orientation? I will proceed with the rest tomorrow to see what they do, just got me worried. The one that does not do it leaves a bit of oil around the top, but as it goes down the bore wipes it completely clean leaving no streak. Thoughts? Cheers.

Thanks for that DCIEVE. Care to elaborate on that statement STATUS?

Thanks mate your a legend.

Hey mate where did you get your rail from? I figured I might need to get another rail, which is fine. Also where did you get the smaller pintle caps from? Yeah if you could trial fit sometime that would be awsome. Cheers.

That's because there's too many try hard fu*wits fitting atmo bov's just because they watched F&F on dvd too many times, and people get sick of replying to dumb fkn questions every second day. Will only be a matter of time before you get pulled over and fisted anyway, so good luck with that.

Hey guys, Going the e85 route shortly. Has anyone had any first hand experience fitting Bosch Indy 1600cc injectors to a rb26? I know it needs a 14mm rail, and possibly new pintle caps. But that's all the info I could find. Could I simply modify the standard 26 rail and run them? Haven't checked stock rail ID measurements yet but will tomorrow. I can find 14mm rails to suit rb30 hose tail conversions to o-ring, but I have nfi if this will fit a 26 inlet or not. Cheers.

mmmmm stock bov to atmo goodness. Not to be too critical, but most intelligent people would have worked out what it was after you put your hand over it and the idle returned.

From what I recall they actually print Mines on the inside PCB usually.

So the next obvious question, did you check/set ring gaps? I would have thought that the rings themselves would have failed before the ringlands but if that was the case.

Yeah not required for your build anyway.

Will be a pretty sic vl once your shift light is installed.

All gtr pumps are super hicas pumps. You can remove the back of the pump and take the fins out, then bolt back together and put 2x brass plugs in. Despite what people say this will not damage the pump or do anything to the life of it. Second option is a 25/20 non super hicas pump. The belt dia should be same, I am currently running a rb20 pump on my 26/30 with a 26 balancer no issues. You grind the lugs down on the bracket itself so it's flush, then space the rear. Alternatively you also swap the pullies over if the rib count is definately different.

Far out that's not good. I was under the impression the supertech stuff was fairly decent. Let us know how you go, I was just about to order a set for 26 today lol. Now I'm a little concerned.

Not true, the undersize of any 4wd block obviously has provisions so that the 4wd sump can bolt up. Same as any rb26/25/20 4wd. They all run a GTR based gearbox, and the sump's are the same albeit different ratio's between models.

Hey guys, Got a late model power-fc here with controller. Unit has been sitting in a box mostly since being purchased. Screen etc is all in excellent condition. The ECU case looks brand new no dints etc. Will come with a tune to suit rb30dett with 700cc injectors. Can obviously go back to the base 26 if you wish too. Location is Brisbane, asking $900. Cheers.

Surley there are importers local to you? When I purchased a 25 from an importer here in Brisbane I walked in with a comp gauge and comp tested a 100k odd motor myself. Took one of the top cam covers off for inspection with there permission. Comp test came back fine, under the cover looked good, so I bought the motor. If you just want to blindely pickup a motor with X amount of k's without checking anything then it has the potential to bite you obviously. It's just common sense really. But hey what do I really care, I know your going to build up the 20 anyway without listening to anyone to good luck with it. Just be fully aware that the 25 will shit on it everytime when your compare mod for mod.

I personally wouldn't spend money on a 20 under any circumstances. There just a boat anchor. I didn't even change the oil in my 20 nics, because it didn't deserve it.