James_03

Hey guys, Have a reconditioned rb26 head complete with valves, springs, cams etc. Was rebuilt less than 1000k's ago by Southside Cylinder heads, still have receipts. Asking $800. Location is Brisbane 4118. Happy to post. Cheers.

No longer for sale guys sorry. Cheers.

Brisbane.

Hey guys, Got a set of rb26 gtr 87mm wiseco forged pistons. Used for sub 500k's includes rings but you would want to buy new ones to re-use. Still in great condition. PM me. Cheers.

It's just a simple case of he has limited knowledge on the subject. N1 with billet gears, and run restrictors as per the guide on here. Just pull rank on him and tell him how it's going to be, it's your engine. If there is any debate about warranty just walk now, complete the rest of the work elsewhere.

It's like a what, 15 min job to fix?

If you have ever watched a bottom end getting balanced, then you will understand the importance of not just wacking another different balancer back on again. If your smashing limiter all the time etc, then it's always got potential to cause an issue. When I get a bottom end balanced, I stick with that balancer for good. That's just me. Billet gears are cheap insurance too, there's no reason not to fit them for $700 odd. Gives you piece of mind. Everone is quick to do forged rods etc, then they wack a 20yr old pump back on a rebuild that has KNOWN issues.

Yeah they are .64 rear.

bump. I bought them off another member on here. He only used them for a few dyno pulls, so no they have not been rebuilt. There is virtually 0 shaft play still, both wheels are in great condition too.

Hey guys, Got a rb26dett head complete with valves cams etc. Has done about 3000k's since it was fully reconditioned. Asking $1300. Located in Brisbane. Cheers.

Ill upload pics tonight mate. Don't have receipts sorry, but you can call MTQ with the serial to confirm rebuild dates. Cheers.

Bump cheap turbos here guys. PM me some offers open to all, just need them gone.

Bump. No 26 to use them on anymore. Cheers.

bump.

Hi guys, Have 2x 2860-5 turbos for sale. Done less than 5000k's. Location is Brisbane. $1700. Cheers.

Hey guys, Got a set of genuine gtr nismo turbo's for sale. Have been rebuilt by MTQ in brisbane. Need a quick sale hence the price. Originally came off a r32 gtr nismo edition. Location is Brisbane 4118. Cheers.

Thanks for input guys. Have decided to go the -5's, I think there best matched for the 3ltr. On there way now, so see how I go with them. Cheers.

Hey guys, Well I am trying to decide on replacement turbos for my rb26/30. Currently runs 9:1 CR and had early Nismo's on it previously. Despite the Nismo's being dog like, it was still reasonable. So basically I can get hold of either a set of low k gt-ss -9 turbo's, OR a genuine 7 blade HX35W and a rb25det nissan manifold. The idea was to have the rb25det manifold professionally modified by changing the runner orientation, as I would like to keep it low mount due to the lack of space with the 30. I know I will need a new front pipe etc. Most of the modding to fit the holset I am cool with, so the big questions, is it worth it? Is the pain and agony of modding the holset in, worth it over just fitting the gt-ss turbos? Let me know your thoughts. Cheers.

Chinese intake plennum or standard? The face/casting is often bad on chinese plennums causing this. Still quite alot of coolant there, so my bet would be the plennum has been removed with a pressurized system.

pcpa lol.

Don't think it would be turbo, you would see white smoke before decel when the oil pressure is at peak. That's when it will bypass the seals. Does it do that all the time? or was that just a once off? If all the time I would be inclined to think stem seals as above.

No it should still fire regardless of whether the cooler pipes are on, might just need some throttle as the un-metered air makes is screwy. Unplug both AFM's and try again, this will put it into a limp home mode which makes the AFR's a bit better for starting. First point of call if you running a standard ECU is to put it into diags and look for fault codes. Takes so much guess work away from something like this. If you haven't already done this then please try that next. After that I would do this: 1. Pull fuel line going to rail and check fuel comes out with the first 10 sec prime with ACC on. 2. Pull coil and spark out of no1 3. Pull fuel pump relay out after testing rail pressure 4. Switch IGN to ON 5. Remove CAS and spin it over by hand the direction of the motor (Clockwise with the CAS facing it's orginal position) 6. Verify coil no1 you pulled out earlier sparks (Insure spark is grounding on cylinder head properly) 7. Verify you can hear the injectors ticking, should be quite noticeable without the noise of the motor cranking See how you go.

First I lol'd at the thread title and everyone in the office looked at me. Then I spat my drink out laughing when I got to this part: Im still recovering.... That's all I have to add.

How does it sound at the moment? Like when you crank it are you getting that up/down sound you get with decent compression? I would have thought the comp would be in a pretty bad way not to atleast start and run rough, in which case the starting sound would be evidently different. Fingers crossed the comp test comes up OK anyway.

See I haven't actually called anyone on this forum an idiot since I have been on here, but you sir really are a dck head. You deserve it all.