georgeonboost

anyone? or anyone know where i can get a pair of rears only?

or maybe fronts are different...i give up lol...just need some rears please!

hi guys, after a pair of rear coilovers to suit a R33 GTR. Prefer vic suburbs so i can see what im buying. Does anyone know if GTR and GTS-T are the same for the rear? i know fronts are different. thanks, George

you've all been very helpful with the problems i've experienced. But can any one shed some light on what i posted earlier? see below. thanks

Wow. More info. I knew with the standard ECU they self-adjusted, just wasn't too sure with a Power FC (never owned a car with aftermarket computer before so its all new to me!) From what i have read, running the way i have it now, a lot of people get 1bar (14psi) boost. Why would i only be getting 12psi? It also doesn't feel like it pulls from 5k-8k the way it use to. Can anyone shed some light on this? Should i disconnect the battery to reset the computer? Thanks, George

Again, Awesome info bud Yep, i will definitely get them to check for boost leaks when i take the car in. thanks again, George

Jayden.K - Thanks heaps for your input. I wasn't too sure if the air/maps are locked in the PFC which sounds like it is. I've just been cruising it and not taking it past 5k as it doesn't really have much pull from there onwards. It sort of flat spots. It definitely runs better they way it is set up now and i have replaced that hose with the holes in it and have gone over the vac lines and have not found any vacuum leaks. Looks like im going to book it in for a tune really soon then

Yeah i am glad i spotted this dodgy way of getting more boost lol The only thing is, it feels like it struggles after 5k to get to 8k. Before it used to scream all the way up no worries. has me confused! Any ideas? Thanks, George

ok. decided to go out in this cold melbourne weather and have a look around. there is no aftermarket boost control kit or pfc ebc kit. what i did find was interesting though. i pulled off one of the lines found a bolt in one and thought...oh no...and on closer inspection, there was some holes in the actuator line. i pulled the other one off aswell and that was blocked off too. i pulled the bolts out and have connected them to the solenoid so it works as it should. It now runs 12psi @ WOT which im much happier with. it boosts much better, comes on boost quicker and drives better. its a tad slower as the boost has dropped, but i think this is better. attached are some pics. if you have any other ideas on what i could do, please tell me! haha.

Thanks for the info. Yes, i have just bought the car a few weeks ago. It definitely looks as if there is no boost controller of any kind. Still retains all the factory lines from the actuators etc to the factory boost solenoid. When you say remove the line from the controller and plumb it to the actuators, are you referring to the 2 boost solenoid hoses? ie. join them together? Thanks George

Hi guys, As gay as it sounds, I need to turn the boost down on my R33 GTR. Its my first GTR and im still getting to know all the biz about them. It's hitting 17psi and running the standard turbos. Surely this can't be good! Basic run down of mods are power fc, air filters, full exhaust (standard dump pipes) and from what I believe, the 'free boost upgrade'. I had a look on the boost solenoid and the is no yellow line on the black hose which leads me to believe the hose has been changed? What would be the easiest way to bring the boost down? I was thinking of putting in a bleed valve to get me by or even put in a ebc (which i prefer). I plan on changing the turbos down the track but have other priorities right now and will have to wait a bit hence why I want it to last a bit. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, George

Hi guys, after the standard boost solenoid hose with the yellow band and restrictor in it. or if anyone know where to get one? or will a normal hose fit and what diameter is it? help is muchly appreciated. thanks, George

Hi guys, Seeing as i had no interest or replies in another section, i thought id try my luck in here! Been on the forums for a while and just recently (last week) bought a R33 GTR v-spec with a few bolt ons and Power Fc. Love it to bits and im very happy with it. After owning it for a week i came across my first problem. It had a slight intermittent stutter while cruising along but but your boot into it and it was boosting fine. Then the next night, it started playing up and wouldn't idle and was hesitate and want to switch off while cruising at low speeds. I looked long and hard through the forums after finally getting the car home which was a pain, we changed the air flow meters as one was pretty rooted and the other looked like it had been replaced at some stage. This fixed the intermittent stutter i was having while crusing but did not fix the idling issue. We tried to adjust the idle on the AAC but that didn't work as planned. More research on the forums (thank god for SAU ), I took off the AAC and to my findings, it was pretty dirty and the spring which is controlled by the solenoid was very sticky. I gave it a clean out with carby cleaner as i didn't really have the time to strip it down into pieces like the DIY thread on here, put it back together and fired her up and set the idle up with the help of the hand controller to get the right revs and it was idling beautifully. This morning cold start was a bit different. I let it warm up a bit, took off down the street and as i came to a complete stop, it stalled. Started up fine again and i was on my merry way. When the car was warmed up and everything was at operating temps, it was fine and never stalled. Its got me stuffed. Is there another sensor that may be faulty or do i really need to strip the AAC down completely to clean it up? Is there a way to check for any error codes using the Power Fc? Any help would be great. Thanks, George

Hi guys, Been on the forums for a while and just recently (last week) bought a R33 GTR v-spec with a few bolt ons and Power Fc. Love it to bits and im very happy with it. After owning it for a week i came across my first problem. It had a slight intermittent stutter while cruising along but but your boot into it and it was boosting fine. Then the next night, it started playing up and wouldn't idle and was hesitate and want to switch off while cruising at low speeds. I looked long and hard through the forums after finally getting the car home which was a pain, we changed the air flow meters as one was pretty rooted and the other looked like it had been replaced at some stage. This fixed the intermittent stutter i was having while crusing but did not fix the idling issue. We tried to adjust the idle on the AAC but that didn't work as planned. More research on the forums (thank god for SAU ), I took off the AAC and to my findings, it was pretty dirty and the spring which is controlled by the solenoid was very sticky. I gave it a clean out with carby cleaner as i didn't really have the time to strip it down into pieces like the DIY thread on here, put it back together and fired her up and set the idle up with the help of the hand controller to get the right revs and it was idling beautifully. This morning cold start was a bit different. I let it warm up a bit, took off down the street and as i came to a complete stop, it stalled. Started up fine again and i was on my merry way. When the car was warmed up and everything was at operating temps, it was fine and never stalled. Its got me stuffed. Is there another sensor that may be faulty or do i really need to strip the AAC down completely to clean it up? Is there a way to check for any error codes using the Power Fc? Any help would be great. Thanks, George

Hi guys. After a r33 GTR AAC valve. I'm in Melbourne Seth eastern suburbs. 0418 344 847. Thanks. George