Ramius83

Tuners here in the States are far and few when it comes to this damn Power FC D-Jetro. So I'm resorting to other means and renting a dyno and self-tuning. Can someone send me RB26 or RB26/30 Apexi Power FC D-Jetro maps that run pretty well? My car is going for around 600-650 rwhp. I'll gladly compensate you for your time into this. Thanks all.

Finally got a Datalogit installed and changed the MAP PIM scale and offset numbers on option 1. Changed to 6630 and 0 (off the top of my head) and she still just cuts off immediately after it catches during start up. Any ideas now?

I thought it should still start though as load is also determined by TPS input. And I thought it silly that the Power FC NEEDS to have those sensors hooked up and calibrated just to start and idle. But I guess with it being older technology, it is what it is. What if a sensor goes bad when starring the car 300 miles from home? That would suck lol......

Ok. Thanks for thy replies guys. Damn, now I need to find a dataloggit now. Can the FC Halo do this as well?

Ok ok, before you flame me, I have read the Power FC FAQs. This is an Apexi Power FC D-Jetro for and RB26/30 in an S14. Engine starts and idles fine with the stock ECU, plug in the Power FC, and it just starts and immediately dies. I have turned the boost control feature off. I am using 1000cc injectors and have set the injectors to 44%. I am using the GM 3 bar map sensors, which have not been calibrated in the hand controller because apparently I need a dataloggit. I have the signal wires of the map sensors going into pins 27 (black wire) and 35 (orange wire). I have checked all power and ground connections, all are ok. Anyone have any incite into this? Would be greatly appreciated.

Does anyone know Leithy (Robert)? I have paid him for this sump that I am needing for a truck project and I have not received it yet. I paid for it back at the end of July. I would appreciate any help with this. Thanks all.

PM sent........

For the oil feeds, returns, or both?

Normal to fill to the bottom of all welsh plugs on both sides as needed with the block level on a stand......

Well, all I can say is Nitto Stroker with a Dry Sump setup........PROBLEMS SOLVED!!!!!!

Meh, if that is all that happened, find a new cap. Have all the caps shaved 0.1-0.2mm, have it line bored, then re-shim and you are good to go. Obviously, find out why it happened too........Need a cap? I am in Georgia and I could send you one.......

What about the oil pump or rear main oil seal dowels? Are those intact or still there? Could have been something left in the block before you/RIPS got it and came loose while running......

I purchased and am awaiting a Quaife LSD Front Differential for an R32 GTR oil pan. Quaife only sells the LSD Front Diff for an R33 or R34. What is the reasoning for this? Does anything need to be trimmed/modified for installation into an R32 GTR oil pan? Or is this a typo and will bolt right in? Thanks all......

I am coming down to the nitty gritty part of this build. I have just about finished the dry sump RB26 oil pan. But, I have a question for all you RB30 guys...... Would it be beneficial in adding the RB26 girdle windage trays to the RB30 girdle? Has anyone done this? Would this be a bad thing or not?. I'm thinking that with the RB26 oil pan bolted to the RB30 block, the windage properties would be nearly the same as the RB26. So I thought about drilling and tapping the RB30 girdle for the trays. What do you guys think?

Quick info.....putting an RB26 AWD pan onto an RB30. Running a dry sump system, modding the RB26 pan with three -12AN pick ups. Is it best to put the stock windadge tray back in if it can be fitting? Or should I just leave it out?