Ramius83

Ummmm, I kindly asked Haltech for some base maps and what they provided were ones from their customer's vehicles. Many of them worked perfect on my set-up so I could get the car started. They are only meant for start-up and to tow to a tuner to be tuned anyways.....

I have actually just bought two Tomei 87mm bore 1.2mm thick RB26 head gaskets and both came with the Tomei 1.5m oil restrictor in the bag. Both head gaskets were bought about 6 months apart and came from two different vendors.

If you can shoot me a few pictures of the O2 sensors, consider them sold. I will offer once I see pics, thanks....... And again, are these from an R32 GTR???????

Any reason, if using the Nistune, a Ford Lightning MAF, and a built RB26, that this could run about 700HP effectively and precisely and accurately?????? Anyone ever do this??????

Willing to post to the United States? If so, very very very interested.......Post back or email me.....Thanks. Erik

Care to give some measurements of the actual thicknesses of the clutch disks themselves with a micrometer? Thanks.....

No, not really. I was hoping for some more useful posts here. I did post in GTROC and was told that it is fine. But I wanted more opinions, especially from peeps here. I trust STATUS's comments, I just wanted a few more before I bolted it on. I think that I may be freaking out over nothing. But, it doesn't hurt to be extra cautious, especially since this is all being done with my full engine build at the same time..... BTW, GTROC Link......

Double Post......

Willing to separate just the O2 sensors? Are they out of an R32 GTR? Thanks......

Ok, so I got a little more technical here. I added some Play-Do (spelling?) to the bottom of the oil pickup and dry-fitted the sump to the engine. I then removed the sump and the Play-Do stuck to the pick-up. Removed the Play-Do and placed on flat table. Using a caliper, I measure about 4mm from the very very very bottom of the pick-up (flared ears) to the bottom of the pan. Does this sound right or too close? Also, again, regarding the actual baffling. Mine sits about 2-3mm off the bottom of the pan. Is this right? Or again, is it too close? Thanks......

I take it that the Ross Balancer is the R32 version??? If so, would you post to the US, of course paid by the buyer? And, is it the model posted here??? RB26DETT Ross Harmonic Balancer If so, post or send pics and consider it sold.......DIBS!!!!

I have recently had a Greddy Oil Pan Sump Extension welded onto my RB26 oil pan. Of course, being in all Japanese, my welder went by the pictures. He cut the lower pan, welded on the sump pan, and welded the center oil pick-up baffle extension. All seemed good until I went to install. It seems that the oil pick-up is about 3/16 of an inch off from the bottom of the oil pan, if that. And the long cylinder tube baffle that was welded on sits about 1/8 of an inch off the bottom of the pan., again, if that and almost flush with the bottom of the oil pan. Does anyone have any pictures of their set-up or if anyone has their pan out, can you get me some pictures? Or does this sound right or wrong? This seems too close to me and I think it will starve the engine of oil. Thanks in advance......

Thank you sir. Much appreciated.

Sorry to revive an old thread. However, I am trying to figure out if I have a newer set of CP pistons or not. I bought my CP pistons for my RB26 new back in September of 2007 and have been sitting in the box ever since. I measured the rings for craps and giggles and found that I have a 1.2mm top ring and a 1.5mm second ring. Do I indeed have the newer set of "thicker" rings/pistons? And on top of that, should I upgrade to a set of ACL rings or others before I slap in those pistons? Thanks all........

BTW, you wouldn't happen to have a schematic for this sump vent would you? I am having a hard time picturing this. This is how I am picturing it. Both the cam covers run to the catch tank, K&N filter on catch tank, steel wool in catch tank. Then hose runs from bottom of catch tank to the vent you are talking about above oil level on sump. I already have a fitting there for the oil return/vent from the back of the head. Can I run that same fitting for the catch tank or make another next to it?

GTRSean and DRIFTER, thank you for your responses. It does make sense that the existing returns be enlarged to that of the headgasket. For some odd reason I did not think of that when talking with my engine guy. We lined up the headgasket on head and then onto the block and you can OBVIOUSLY see what needs to be done, exactly that of GTRSean's picture. Thank you both.

Anybody??????

Hey guys. Coming from the US on this one. I can't seem to find an accurate picture of the degree of which you all are enlarging the head and block oil returns. My engine builder is second to none here on the East Coast, but hasn't dealt much with this type of mod to the RB26. I need semi-close pictures of the oil returns that you are enlarging and to the degree that you are enlarging them. Are you just cleaning up the casting to facilitate the oil returns or are you actually taking 1-3mm from the returns...????? Thanks in advance.....

If I am not mistaken, it is a stepper motor actuator type. Most Nissans of this era use the stepper motor type.......

BTW, when you say RHS, you mean "intake" side or "exhaust" side......Depends on view of engine from front or when in seating position lol...... And where is it best to locate the drain on the intake side of the stock sump, ie: near rear of sump, on top section of pick-up/front side, on bottom section of pick-up side/front near drain plug, etc.......

And to add to this in regards to the rear head welsh plug drain mod. Where is the best place to locate the drain on the oil pan? I have seen some add the fitting on the rear of the oil pan, while others do it near the pick up (sump side) of the oil pan. What's best?

I unfortantely have buggered up camshaft caps on my RB26. I need a complete set of Intake Caps, or whatever you got. Obviously I know I have to align bore the head. Please let me know......Thanks.

LOL, it was there the whole time. I have seen this chart, but neglected to see VC. Thanks Dirt, as always........

Feel courteous in providing a direct or semi-direct link lol?......I guess frustration has hindered my search capabilities at this time lol........

I am in need of some help. I am in process of having the head on my RB26 built. I purchased the JUN 10.8mm Lift, 272 Duration Camshafts. The engine builder needs the specifications on the camshafts. I heard rumors that these cams run a smaller valve lash clearance, but I don't know for sure, and I especially don't know the numbers needed. I visited JUN's website and no information was found there. He needs the valve lash clearances, so on and so forth to properly install these cams. Thanks in advance.....