xr8eater

hey guys i have the auto box manual and fault codes here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=88772 hope that helps my R32 also has this problem as all the autos are the same model i am trying to diagnose their problems and note it down for every one to use. the problem sounds like the band adjustment it's only set at 4nm-6nm i will let you guys know when i find an easy way to get to the adjusting bolts

give us a pm when it happens cheers dave

what a waist of $$$$$$$ eh i suppose it's just like shocks good for the track shit for the road

www.bee-r.com make them but $$$$$

are you guys looking at doing the BEE-R R324R kit at all

thanks for clearing that up rev201 sounds like an after xmas thing for me $2000 is cheep

MYSHY32 you are a scamer also selling hats for $20 on here when they are for sale on ebay for $16 deliverd shame shame the pot calling the kettle black

you need a rotating ring spanner they make them for air con units quite handy to have

the factory uses gasket sealer on the head but go ahead and dont use it just give it two weeks and it will be leaking again up to you dude. I did mine they leaked and then i used sealer never leaked since

cleared?? clear epoxy i dont understad/\

ah this can be done over and over again and it will still leak. The best way is to use a gasket sealer all the way around. Then start screwing down the screws from the middle and working towards the back of the engine make sure your engine is stone cold when doing this some loctite thread locker may help.

i have prepreged yacht masts in carbon that held up to 12 tonnes but they never had much twist this was allways the cause of them faulting. i would also like to see one that snapped and where it faulted

the fault codes for the auto box just handy they be here 1. Have the car at normal temperature in Park with the overdrive on 2. Start the engine - the power light will go out after 2 seconds 3. Turn the ignition off 4. Move the selector to Drive (you may have to use the push button release) 5. Overdrive off 6. Wait 2 seconds, and turn the ignition on 7. Wait 2 seconds and move the selector to 2 8. Overdrive on 9. Move the selector to 1 10. Overdrive Off 11. Press the accelerator fully and release 12. Hopefully the power light will flash out a series of 10 or 11 flashes. Here are the auto trans codes. The sequence starts with one long flash. If everything is OK, this will be followed by ten short flashes. Errors are indicated by a long flash in the sequence of short flashes. 1st flash longer: revolution sensor shorted or disconected 2nd flash longer: speed sensor shorted or disconected 3rd flash longer: throttle sensor shorted or disconected 4th flash longer: shift solenoid A shorted or disconected 5th flash longer: shift solenoid B shorted or disconected 6th flash longer: overrun clutch solenoid shorted or disconected 7th flash longer: lockup solenoid shorted or disconected 8th flash longer: fluid temperature sensor is disconected or the control unit power source is damaged 9th flash longer: engine revolution sensor shorted or disconected 10th flash longer: line pressure solenoid shorted or disconected All flashes the same with no long start flash: battery voltage low, has been recently disconected or control unit has just been reconected. ************** Also found these codes, but I'm not sure if they are relevant; Auto Diagnostics Code Description 111 Inhibitor Switch 112 Vhcl Speed Sen A/T 113 A/T 1st Signal 114 A/T 2nd Signal 115 A/T 3rd Signal 116 A/T 4th Signal 118 Shift Solenoid/V A 121 Shift Solenoid/V B 123 Overrun Clutch S/V 124 Tor Conv Clutch Sv 125 Line Pressure S/V 126 Thrtl Posi Sen A/T 127 Engine Speed Sig 128 Fluid Temp Sensor ************

it's the same box

page 207 has the band adjustment values for us auto guys now keep in mind the gear box is upside down in the manual. so the nut is on the right hand side of the engine next to the zorst on the top of the gear box. when i figure out how to get to the bolt the easy way i will let you know

one of my main problems too sk lol

you mean the pollys got somthing right!

forget the welds i hope the intake manifold nuts get put back on. Im sure they are

did they say any thing about Gts-t shafts rev210

iwells i was talking about www.nismo.com.au ebola thoes three letters cost in this case $3500 more for a simlar product thanks for your help guys i will have to inquire the places in the above mentioned and see what happens if you have any other sites let me know

only reason the GTR ones are $4000 is because it has GTR written on it you know what i mean all i want is a place that sells these shafts not snide remarks leave that for the SDU forum

if you guys could get the links or part numbers that would be great

top secret dont have them

16mm for type m rears there are 3 diffrent types

im not a big fan of nismo i havent had the best of advice from them