Jump to content
SAU Community

Penfold

Members
  • Posts

    350
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Penfold

  1. Thanks again guys. So where is the best place to buy stock GTR front shock absorbers. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/5611024u26 So thats around $770 delivered for the pair. Originally the Bilsteins were about $700 but appear difficult to obtain (looks like $870) for the pair if actually available. I don't know if the stock ones can be rebuilt. Anyone at this stage I was curious if there were some local offerings such as the KYB that ACTIVE-LSD suggested. But then the MCA coilovers start making more sense. What suggestions from you guys?
  2. Thanks guys! I didn't want to spend a whole lot as I went back to uni and am a student at the moment. It is only for road use and am happy with the ride height (its a vspec with the series 3 front lip) so don't want to go any lower. Originally I was just thinking about keeping it OEM ($350) but the bilsteins weren't ridiculously expensive ($300-400 each) so thought that might be a good chance to have a bit of an upgrade for just the shocks themselves. The only trouble is I can't seem to find them anywhere (I'm not sure if they are discontinued or not). I really didn't want anything that would make the ride too harsh either so I'm a bit worried about putting anything 'racing' on.
  3. Hi everyone, One of my front shock absorbers is leaking so I want to replace both fronts. I tried to purchase some Bilstein (24-021074 / B46-2107) R33 GTR fronts but I waited 12 weeks on an order from Germany and it just got cancelled. I am wondering what the best thing would be to do. Does anyone know if they are still being made? They are like $400/shock. I'm not sure on the price of OEM shocks but I assume they have probably gotten more expensive / not available. I think KYB make some but I'm not sure how good/reliable they would be. I don't really want to spend a fortune nor by some really crap coilovers. MCA make these : https://mcasuspension.com/mca-pro-sport-nissan-skyline-r33-gtr/?attribute_set-pair=Front+Dampers+Only&attribute_mca-shock-shield=Yes+(%2B%2465)&wcpbc-manual-country=AU&gad=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw-IWkBhBTEiwA2exyO86e0oELfSMOQ56MsTphOAVHz7y2uIkQQ0VHwOYFgOkxdqs5ahw_7BoCLDsQAvD_BwE What do you guys think?
  4. Any updates? interested too?
  5. Hiya, Do you have these parts? - Hand brake lever (if decent condition) - Driver's seat belt - Gearshift boot - Blend door actuator (aircon vent thingo) - Driver's side door lock Maybe rear bumper? Thanks!
  6. Hey got the Series 3 lip - looks to be only a touch above 11cm all the way around. So if anyone else is wondering the series 3 lip isn't ridiculously low. Probably about the same as the nismo fibreglass one originally (before it started splitting).
  7. Yeh its for a R33 GTR. I guess I will stick with the slimline front & standard rear. My current number plate rear had been ground down on the edges to fit.
  8. Hi, I was about to purchase personalized plates. I wanted to know if you guys think its better slimline front & regular rear or both slimline. I realize the rear plate will need some modification to fit regardless. Thanks, Pen
  9. Yeh but more worried about fitting to my series 1 Vspec and reducing the current road clearance. My current front lip is about 130mm and gives me about 130mm clearance.
  10. Wow that's a lot. I read here that it was only 20mm. But as I have an after market lip so I am unsure of the actual height.
  11. Hi, I have an R33 GTR series one and was purchasing the original front lip. I like the look of both but was wondering what the height difference between the Series 1 & 3 are (ie how much more scraping will I be doing). Forgot to add, current lip is a 400r looking fibreglass job but it's pretty worn. Looks to be about 13cm high.
  12. Thanks for the help guys. I can get this braided oil & water kit for $143.10 here would that be equivalent to the supertec braided kit? I was looking at just buying another set of turbos Here . Rebuilding was going to cost only a little less. I should also buy the turbo gasket kit too here . Anything else to add to the shopping list?
  13. Where did you get the turbos rebuilt? FOr a cheaper option, I was looking at just replacing a single turbo from my HKS GT-SS set with the equivalent Garrett - GT2859R. I can get a GT2859R from GCG for $1400 new ( https://gcg.com.au/petrol-performance/performance-4/turbochargers-garrett-t-gt-series/garrett-gt2859r-turbocharger-aka-gtr-9-s-detail ) and use my HKS actuator. That would be keeping the other turbo (provided it is in good condition). So hopefully saving on some labour as well by just replacing the damaged turbo. Do you think I should just replace both - it would be $2500 for a new 2xGt2859r kit? I could go second hand to probably save a little.
  14. Hi, It sounds like one of my HKS GT-SS turbos is failing ( getting the low siren noise when accelerating ). They would not have many K's on them and was considering just buying a single replacement turbo . They don't appear to make GT-SS turbos themselves anymore so I would have to get the Garrett GT2859R's. I don't really want to upgrade turbos at this stage as I'd be up for another $2500 for a tune alone. A single turbo is $1400 vs a new kit at about $2,500 for the Garrett GT2859R kit. What do you guys think? I think it would be best just to replace the single with a GT2859R. Thanks, Pen
  15. R - means the poles are reversed ( so just look at which way your current battery is ). T1 - T1 indicates the smaller Japanese style poles T2 - T2 indicates the larger regular style poles. ( look at the battery ) You can actually see in the pics.
  16. Hi, Does anyone know the screw size of the positive terminal under the bonnet ( under fuse box ) in a R33 is? I want to use a CTEK M5S comfort connect but I think its bigger than the M6 eyelets they give you. Cheers, Pen
  17. If you still have the window switch ill take if?
  18. Hey, Chasing up a few bits and pieces: - Boot struts ( reasonable condition ) - Driver's side front door lock - handbreak lever ( just want the grip but it's tough to remove so maybe whole thing ) http://www.sau.com.au/forums/uploads/gallery/album_5832/sml_gallery_1308_5832_102651.jpg - drivers side control door cover ( this thingo => http://www.sau.com.au/forums/uploads/gallery/album_5832/sml_gallery_1308_5832_108645.jpg - blend door actuator - Driver's side seat belt Cheers, Pen
  19. Is that a R33 GTR steering wheel - kinda looks like series 1? If so I'll take it
  20. I'll check into it and give the Mechanic a bell. If it was probably the starter motor I'd just buy a replacement before I had it towed so it would be an easier in and out job. Thanks for the help!
  21. Hi, My R33 GTR failed to start the other day. Not sure if it had anything to do with the cold weather but I knew the battery was on the way out so I replaced it. However, looks like the old girl is still not starting. It has been making a similar noise for a second then starting over the last few months but only on an occasional basis ( like a bit of a sneeze ). I thought it might be the starter but just wanted some input before i get it towed to the mechanic. Here's me trying to start it. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_5PCIQuK--hRHNwMV9pa1VTLXM/view?usp=sharing Just wondering if this is commmon. Cheers, Pen Car trying to start.wav
  22. Interested in the R33 GTR mats - how much to send to Bundbaerg (4670) ?
×
×
  • Create New...