Penfold

bundaberg qld, can send cod anywhere in aus.

Wolf 3D version 4 + handset + box +receipts RRP: $1650 Plugin for r33 skyline Asking $1000ono. Never been put in in a car. 0423035926 Dont sms me as i wont reply.Ring if u are interested Justin.

Chasing up genuine: Nissan 02 sensors & an rb26 CAS & Timing Blet Either new or second hand (obviously price will vary though). Or I think I noticed an apprentice mechanic at Nissan on the forums a while ago who could get the standard nissan parts a little cheaper. Cheers, Penfold

5 stud multi fit - will fit all 5 stud imports + fords + subaru 5 stud Chasing $1400ono 235/45/17 tyres fronts 90% tread backs 30% tread Will have photos uploaded tommorrow but if you want photos now just pm me. call 0400384233 ask for tim if your genuinly interested

Just thought I'd let you know that I took a few pics of device working in my car and posted a quick review. I'll add some more once I finalize my laptop-logging configuration. Find it at: http://home.austarnet.com.au/myra/datascan...ssdatascan.html Cheers, Penfold

Hiya, Might be worth checking this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=39113 Also, its probably a good idea to do a sensor check. If this is too daunting then I can't recommend the NissDatascan enough. Installed one on my GTR Friday ( by installed I mean I plugged it into the consult port) & works very well. Displays 8 engine parameters on the screen out of - RPM - AFM voltage (2 for my GTR) - Speed [miles/kph] - Injector Pulse Width - Injector Duty Cycle (%) - Water/Coolant Temp Sensor (°C & F) - Ignition timing - Throttle Position (voltage & %) - 02 sensor (voltage, + lean/rich) - AAC Valve position (%) - Battery Voltage - Flags (a/c compresser on?, Power steering pump on?, Neutral Gear Selected?, Closed TPS) - More Flags (A/C Relay on?, Fuel Pump on?, VCT Solenoid on?, Termo fans on?) - More Flags (P/reg on?, Wastegate valve on?, IACV-FICD on ?, Egr on? Hence you can diagnose most problems straight away. Saves dropping into mechanic & having them tinker around & recommend replacement parts. I'll take a few photos tomorrow & do up a review when I get hold of a laptop to test the logging.

Can't recommend the NissDatascan enough. Installed one on my GTR Friday ( by installed I mean I plugged it into the consult port) & works very well. Displays 8 engine parameters on the screen out of - RPM - AFM voltage (2 for my GTR) - Speed [miles/kph] - Injector Pulse Width - Injector Duty Cycle (%) - Water/Coolant Temp Sensor (°C & F) - Ignition timing - Throttle Position (voltage & %) - 02 sensor (voltage, + lean/rich) - AAC Valve position (%) - Battery Voltage - Flags (a/c compresser on?, Power steering pump on?, Neutral Gear Selected?, Closed TPS) - More Flags (A/C Relay on?, Fuel Pump on?, VCT Solenoid on?, Termo fans on?) - More Flags (P/reg on?, Wastegate valve on?, IACV-FICD on ?, Egr on? Hence you can diagnose most problems straight away. Saves dropping into mechanic & having them tinker around & recommend replacement parts. I'll take a few photos tomorrow & do up a review when I get hold of a laptop to test the logging. Otherwise just by one from the wreckers if your pretty sure its broken - there not that expensive.

2 sec job to connect it to the consult port (near fuse box at drivers right leg).

Do the ax5360s bolt straight onto the rb26 manifold or do they require some modification??

could you send pics of the sub box + dimensions to [email protected]

Whats the main difference between these and your z32 afms? Couldn't you have tuned them with your powerfc based off the z32 setting? Cheers, Penfold

A stock r32 GTR runs 0.8 bar (~11 PSI). By removing the restrictor boost runs at about 0.95 bar (~14 PSI).

cool, Will give it a try out then. I'm sure this will be invaluable for anyone with a stock ECU and trying to diagnose a problem. I'll post up my readings for a r33 GTR so we can have an idea of whats normal, etc - mine is running a bit rich though on startup. So hopefully itll be able to tell me something. cheers!

Just wondering Fhrx if its the Clarion VRX935VD thats the most popular CD/DVD/LCD head unit or what your recommendations are? I guess the competition is the Pioneer AVH-P or the Alpine CVA range. Just that I'm looking for something in that ballpark & wondering what your current recommendation would be from a value for money point of view. Cheers, Penfold P.S. Sorry for hijacking the thread Iwells but it sounds like you'd be interested too.

Just wondering if the consult port still works if you replace the stock ECU with a PowerFC?? The reason I ask is that I currently have a Techtom MDM-100 hooked up and I guess if i install a powerfc then it'll stop working? Thanks, Penfold

yeh sorry, live in QLD but have been following the thread in skylinesdownunder with interest as i was getting close to trying conzult.

Jetgts your PM box is full - just letting u know that I deposited funds for the 3 Nismo caps. And a reminder if u come across the following for r33 series 1: - glovebox - ashtray - cig lighter - back right inner boot lining trim to let me know.

an idea on price would be good - $1400?

put me down for one but i have a GTR so it would be paricularly good if i could display 2nd afm as well, etc.

Erm, u ran the car with a z32 afm and a stock ECU?

Well in my case Im leaning towards a leakin head gasket or o2 sensor(grounding) combined with my default timing being slightly retarded (but the other things can all be causes). Ill see how it goes with mechanic P.S. When its cold get a mate to give it a bit of throttle (in neutral of course ) and have a look at whats coming out your exhaus.t

Any feedback from Dominic or is this thread dead?

Have a PowerFC for my r33 GTR (PFC RB26 9605-0556) and was looking at a handcontroller (FCC NT9605-0658) and wondering if they are compatible?? Cheers, Geoff

Chasing the 02 sensors (how many you got) & wondering what the difference is between an N1 oil pump and a normal gtr vspec pump?

I’ve got a really similar problem with my R33 GTR. Symptomps include: - Running very rich ie. 300km / tank (tank = 72L) - Cold Start - Starts Ok ----- Idle is a little erratic & diff exhaust sound ----- Feels like timing changes slightly when water tmp reaches 30°C ----- Surging & running pretty poorly (boost builds very early) ----- AFM voltage is about 1.2 at idle ------ Injector Duty is at 2.1at idle - Timing advances at 60C ------ Runs perfectly ------ AFM voltage is about 1.0 at idle ------ Injector Duty is at 1.5 at idle - Start with waterl >40C and it runs fine. As the car runs very well at over 60°C its pretty safe to assume that there is nothing physically going wrong with the car/engine. Thus, it is more likely to be a sensor/ecu making an error. So its time to check the sensors. 1. Run ECU diagnostic Short the driver side fuse & check the ECU code: 11 Crankshaft position sensor 12 MAF sensor circuit 13 Coolent temperature circuit 14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit 21 Ignition circuit 31 ECU (ouch!) 34 Knock sensor 43 Throttle position circuit 45 Injector leak 51 Ignition circuit 54 Auto signal to ECU 55 All OK 2. Check for faulty O2 sensor - Check its earthed properly (the braided line is usually earthed to exhaust manifold) - Three wire is heated occupying two wires with the third being the signal and the body being ground. - Find the wire for the O2 sensor going to your ECU and put a (+) probe from multimeter on it and put the (-) probe to the chasis and drive your car. it should vary between 0- 1volts. if it stays at 0v its dead. - If you have an aftermarket ECU then disable closed loop to diagnose - http://www.gt-skyline.net/maintenance/oxyg...gen_sensor.html - O2 Sensor Check - Summary -let engine warm up to normal operating temperature. -Measure voltage in engine bay O2 sensor plug, with everything still connected, between the MIDDLE wire out of the three in the plug, and chassis ground. The O2 sensor is screwed in a bung just after the turbo dump. -if its OK you should see the voltage fluctuate several times a second from a minimum anywhere between 0V and 0.3V to a maximum of anywhere between 0.6V and 1 V. -if no fluctuation is occuring the sensor is dead. -this test should only be conducted during idle as only then is the ECU in closed loop mode (except for cruise) causing it it to alternate the mixture in opposition to the current sensor reading. 3. I doubt its the Coolant Temp Sensor as your °C readings seem ok but its work checking: - It sits on the rail that comes off the top radiator hose, yellow plug 2wires - The sender should read: 2.1 - 2.9 k Ohms @ cold (17 or so degrees 0.68 - 1.00 k Ohms @ approx 45 degrees 0.30 - 0.33 k Ohms @ approx 74 degrees 4. Check Cold Air Regulator - cold idle valve between cyclinders 4 & 5. (FIDC) - gives the fast idle when cold and is located on the manifold. 5. Check Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) 6. Clean AFMs with electrical contact cleaner (eg CRC electrical grade Contact Cleaner) and use multimeter to check readings. Spray gently as the wire is pretty fragile so keep a decent distance. If u want to know wheather your AMF fault, just unplug it & start the car (it’ll use default enrichment tables). If ide run OK but can't run over 3500rmp which is normal. It's mean problem from your AFM but if the ide still go up & down, its something else. Check for leaks in the air intake pipe out of AFM &the clamps. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...t=AFM+AND+clean Air Flow Meter Check – -with the engine running and warm, and everything still connected, measure the voltage between chassis earth and the first wire after the blank on the AFM plug. -the voltage should be somewhere over 1 volt at idle, raising to about 1.5V at about 2500 RPM. -everyones voltage will be slightly different as each engine will always breathe slightly differently, the important point is that a voltage exists, and increases with RPM. If these fail time to check: - Give the ECU a reset - Remove & Clean Auxillary Air Control (AAC) Valve - Check TPS (throttle position signal) voltages - Clean throttle body - Check coils & replace spark plugs Other options: Unlikely to be a physical problem as it wouldn’t always be spot on 60°C as something expands to fix the problem. BUT: 1. Check for leak at inlet manifold (dried and cracked or broken inlet gaskets?). 2. Check vaccum lines & in particular anything near the fuel pressure regulator. 3. Fuel pump & fuel filter – Visual inspection (not clogged, etc) & maybe some injector cleaner 4. Other theory I’ve seen “think is the ECU is going into closed loop mode way to early, before the motor warms up and stops using the cold temp fuel map, which is why if you accelerate a liitle bit it goes away, the ECU won't go into closed loop under accel, but as soon as you back off and cruise under light throttle it goes into closed loop and because the ECU is running the cold fuel map it it very rich and in closed loop it basically freaks out and thinks there is way to much fuel and trims it down” on Skylines Downunder. I'm in the process of going through all of these, Penfold let us know how u go