Penfold

I reckon 300 awkw will be a big ask but maybe if its a very friendly dyno. FWIW i got R33 GTR - rebuilt with 700cc injectors, GT-SS turbos, dumps, full 3-inch exhaust, 18 PSI, Trust I/C, 260 Cams at 280 AWKW.

Remember, without being able to test drive the car you don't know the condition of anything else - clutch, gearbox & little things like power windows, stereo. The guy selling it probably bought a "cheap" GTR and can't afford to rebuild the engine - hence the sale. It doesn't have a roadworthy, you can't drive it. What the guys are saying is it would need to be $10,000 cheaper than a similar car in decent condition to justify the risks/inconvenience involved.

sounds good - atleast if i get pulled over I'll keep a copy of the report in my glovebox & show em that. Cheers, Pen

Tah thanks for the advice

Hiya, Just wanted to get some feedback from you guys. Just got defected for my exhaust when I was pulled over & the officer asked me to rev the car to 5100 RPM and hold it. He then said it sounded to loud - about 95db he said. He said limit was 90 so he issued a defect notice and said I had to take it to an approved exhaust shop and get an exhaust test done with written documentation and send off to State Traffic Task Force. I guess I take it to a specialist exhaust place here in Bundy. Also, I have a PowerFC & Datalogit is there anything i can adjust with them? Cheers, Pen

Hiya, Just wanted to double check this variance in AFM voltages seems ok. Currently, they are in a box pod setup so I guess some variance is expected. Does this look normal though? [Datalogit graph] Cheers, Pen

thats a GTS-T Placard I got a sticker on my R33 GTR: 225/50R17 - 2.3 2.3 245/45ZR17 T145/70 D17 - 4.2 4.2 with some Japanase writing too

Yeh get the Nismo one - especially if you have an aftermarket clutch - heaps easier on the left foot!

Dude, your looking at $8000 for a fairly basic rebuild. With a R32 GTR its getting near 20 years old - so stuff is going to break.

Those ranges seem crazy - HKS GT-SS is about 270kw to 320 KW & R34 N1 Turbos would be a tad less probably 240kw to 300KW. If you don't drag your car that often and want the power for the street - 300 KW from the GT-SS, or -7 would be fairly responsive. The only problem is you do need the supporting mods + your kinda stuck at that power level. But a GTR with an easy to use power band - 2500-7500 RPM with a friendlish clutch is good if its a daily driver.

Any pics for a R33 GTR - I really need to do this as my aircon (warmed up) causes my car to hunt - any info?

OK, Warmed car up then tried to get it to re-initilaze but when I switch the aircon now the car just wildly hunts and doesn't stablize. Loaded the old tuned map back on but it still does the same thing. Looks like no aircon for me Any ideas? Pen Can i dial in a higher Idle1 & Idle2 + the F/C idles before i start the self-learn? The map that the tuners had was this: F/C1 1150 F/C2 1250 Idle1 1000 Idle2 1050 Compared to stock: F/C1 1200 F/C2 1300 Idle1 900 Idle2 950 So maybe the tuners tried it with stock (but i have tomie poncams) so maybe they had it set to the above before they did the self-learn procedure) ? Just wanted to check because I didn't want to waste another half an hour if it makes no difference before u start? Thanks, Pen

Also the PowerFC FAQ says air con then demister whereas the PowerFC RX7 manual says demister then aircon ?

Awesome. The learning map at cold start explains why its all over the place now - i will correct tomorrow Because I live in Bundy and nearest 4wd tuner is 4 hours way its hard to organize - its been tuned already but as I said initially - its the cold startin revving high & the warmish start hunting - probably did not get noticed in the initial tune So checking what the usual corrections are to cold start to reduce idle & secondly for the warmish start to boost the idle RPM revs. Using datalogit there are a heap of correction tables but I was wondering what the usualy procedure is from someone who has modified these settings before. Thanks heaps - its just a couple of bugs I was trying to iron out. Also, I will eventually get it to tuner again - its just that the warmish & absolute cold start take days to duplicate on a regular basis to tune it out & I don't have the opportunity to leave the car in brissy for a number of days.

Hmm, Redid the initialize but now it seems to hunt more than before ( I did it from an absolute cold start & just added inj % & disabled BC ). It does have to be started from absolute cold start right ? Then I copied the tuned map back over the top. Ok,I will redo the initilize procedure again tomorrow morning unless theres some other suggestions? then I'll copy the map it comes up with & post it up. Then I will copy the whole tuned map back over. Any tips? Cheers, Pen

Ok, Just to clarify a few things: a) The map (.dat) file I downloaded at cold/warm/hot starts were all the same b) The Self idle adjustment procedure does adjustments to settings that aren't found in datalogit (so copying data back on won't wipe the self-learn?) c) I put the Injector settings, disable boost control in first after I initialize. d) I leave the ingition/water temp correction settings as they are? e) I do the initilizae at an absolute cold start? Thanks again, Pen

Is the front bar separate to the lip - like the genuine items? Any idea on postage to QLD?

Not sure, can't find any leaks. I think it might be due to the temp correction or sensors. Here's the logs: http://members.iinet.net.au/~ptv/penfold/l...ntingatidle.dat http://members.iinet.net.au/~ptv/penfold/l...ntingatidle.txt http://members.iinet.net.au/~ptv/penfold/l...ldcoldstart.dat http://members.iinet.net.au/~ptv/penfold/l...ldcoldstart.txt I'll get up a really cold start where it goes up to 1800 RPM at idle. Cheers, Pen

Sorry again, But I came across another question. In the Datalogit map it stores the Rev/Idle limits, function selects, injector settings ( 85,85,85,85.5, 86,86.6) as well the various water temp/air temp corrections. So I thought I would need the injector seettings put in if I reinitialzed & did the reinitialize procedure - is there anythign else I should add. Also if I did it & copied the tuned .dat file back across it will overwrite all the data - so I should just keep the different temp correction stuff and overwrite everything else? What I will do this mornign is hook it up & record a log file for the cold start procedure itself and a warmed up start & a warmish start - which settings should i make sure I log - or just all of them?. Thanks, Pen

Ok, I'm gonna do it - but wanted to check a couple of things. Heres a copy of the map that was done by the tuner: Datalogit Map R33 GTR Going by the date that was at the start of the year. However that map would have just been downloaded cold - not at operating temp Will it yield a different map if it is downloaded before operating temp is reached. Is there any settings that won't be in that map file that I should record as well? eg inj %, function settings? Sorry for all the questions - just don't want to lose the tuned map. Thanks again, Pen

OK cool I will do that . Also when I checked under the Function Select: Boost Control - Disabled Ign/AirF Warning - Disabled Knock Warning - Enabled O2 F/B Control - Disabled => but I enabled it O2 Sensor Reg - Disabled Should I change any of them too?

Always pretty much revved high since the last tune - what would be normal ? . The warmed up idle is fine and also when it is started when the engine is still hot. I could not even tell you when the warmish start hunting started because I normally just drive to & from work (only about 5 minutes) & for quick stops. There is not that many occassions where I would have the car really warmed up & then leave it for a an hour - thats when it hunts - it does settle down after a few minutes as it warms back up to the full operating temp. Thanks P.S. I do have datalogit & have the map downloaded so I could have a look at that.

Installed about 12 months ago by a pretty well known company in Brissy - they tuned it again later for 3 hours on the dyno after the setup got modified a bit. I'll disable the O2 sensors & give it a try today.

Just wondering if you guys could help with a few niggles with my current PowerFC setup. Car - R33 GTR , HK GTSS Turbs, 700cc Injections, Tomei 260/260 Poncams - fairly late model PowerFC Cold Start on PFC - On a cold start it idles at 1700 RPM - then settles down after it warms up a bit to idle at 1100 RPM Hot Start after a short stop - Idles at 900 RPM Hot Start after waiting for 1-2 hrs (engine still warm) - Hunts from 800 RPM to 1300 RPM or so Any ideas? SHould I have a play with the cold start settings on the PFC? Advice? Cheers, Thanks

Yeh worked. I have some pics. If you have a similar problem - ie the Air-con Fan Blower is not working when you cycle the Fan button on the control - I would recommend borrowing one of a mates & trying that. If it works then pull your old one out & pull it apart & look under the lid for a broken copper looking connection. Then desolder the 3 pins on the other end going to the chip and pull off the top circuit board . Resolder down the copper looking connection and then resolder down the 3 pins. DONE & DONE!