noddle

this is a old thread, but I saw the question the answer is NO, the RB30 one I brought will not fit the MR30 plug Nigel

Find a MR30 ('83-85 ish) with a L24e in it, grab the dissy, including the spacer bit (the bit between dissy and timing cover) very easy to connect. Nigel

Wasn't the forum moved from one server to another in the last few days?, maybe they still restoring the data from backups, Nigel

The one out of my wrecked MR30 was to wide to fit my C110, what width is the one in your car ? I could measure it for you Nigel

I though you were running a turbo ?, I didn't see any oil lines from your oil sensor Nigel

Is that a new harmonic balancer on it ?, can I ask where you got it from, and how much you paid for it Nigel

Does it leak with the broken bolt ?, if not, you may consider leaving it, or you could drill it, tap it, or have you tried using a centre punch, and gently tap the side (off centre) to see if you can make it turn, Nigel

Hi, the 070, 044 numbers, does the numbers represent litres per minute ? Nigel

If you replacing the motor with another "L" type, drop a L28 into it, and as long as the sump is the same (front sump I believe for MR30), It will "just" bolt in the same. only issue may be the EFI, injectors will most likely be to small (flow rate), but i'm no EFI expert, some off the other members would know more about this than me, Nigel

Dibs on the electric fuel pump, if its the same as a MR30 skyline one, how much do you want for it ?, as long as it still ok. also what you want for the "fuse box, including relays, and a foot or two of its wiring ? Nigel

Notch the cylinders. Nigel

Unless you want to pull the front timing cover off, a coat hanger wont do. you need to jam the chain, see the pictures, the first one show the tensioner and the guide, the second one show the parts of the tension, if you let the chain go slack, most likely the spring and guide will come out off the body, thus requiring the front cover to come off, and if you are lucky, you can fish the bits out of the sump. did you down load one off those manual I suggested, or at least hunt around the net for a guide on how to do this ? Nigel

I've sent you a PM MAG86 Nigel

I circled it in this picture Nigel

I wouldn't want to drop the chain, and pull the front cover off, "just to have a look and clean", If you are mechanically inclined, then it probably wouldn't be a big deal, but if not, I suggest you jam the chain with a block off wood, like in these pictures Nigel

If you have a manual, it will show you how to do it, if not, go here http://carfiche.com/manuals023/cars/ and download one off these 73 Datsun 240Z 76 Datsun 280Z 77 Datsun 280Z 82 Datsun 280ZX These use the "L" type engine, so the engine bit would be the same. Nigel

1 foot or so of wire from temp sensor incl sensor PLUG for nodz, no sensor needed. (ECU one, not temp gauge) thanks Nigel

I'm after one as well, (MR30 AFM) I'm only after the connector in the AFM and the cable that plugs into it ( a few feet), I will destroy the AFM to get the connector out off it, so a dead one would be ok If you could have a look for me also MAG86, it would be much appreciated. also if you are off to the wreckers, I would like a foot or so of wiring and plug that goes to the temperature sensor for the ECU as well, if it's cheap enough (don't need whole harness) I'm in Burnie, Tassie by the way Nigel

It's from my 240K manual Nigel

This picture show how it work, the little valve has 3 connection and 2 ball spring valves, 1 - vapour from the fuel tank, 2 - crank case, 3 - air filter the way I see it working is, when the fuel tank has pressure in it (hot day), it goes through the valve and is released into the crank case, when the fuel tank has vacuum (cold nights etc), it allows clean air via the air filter into the fuel tank, I would think the vapour that has entered the engine, would be sucked back into the inlet manifold via the PVC valve when the engine is running. anyway that how I read the picture Nigel

I use a sharp 1 inch wide wood chisel, you need to be careful not to mark the mating surfaces, but it work well if you take your time and don't rush it. Nigel

Is this a better picture ? Nigel

There some info on this site http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30593 Nigel

If you have money to burn, these may be useful http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-Head-St...sspagenameZWD1V Nigel

Not to be a negative person, but doesn't the "N42 280ZX head" have larger valves ?, and to fit it on a L24 you have to "notch" the cylinders ? Nigel