noddle

I've was looking for a coupe (KHGC110) for about 5 year, in the end my brothers friend had one, so now I have it. In Tassie, these are extremely rare to find. good luck, if you find one, this site has lots of information on them http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=102 Nigel

I was under the impression only the (MR30 - OZ) 'hatch' had the disc rear end ?, I know the one I have has it, but for the others I don't know for sure Nigel

I've seen them cut, hose slid on, with a clamp thought I throw this in as well, (when I was researching for my turbo build) not sure if they are %100 correct though and the RB30 (non turbo) are to small for a L24 Turbo engine. 280ZX - 180cc L20et - 188cc RB30 - 200cc RB30ET - 250cc L28ET - 265cc Low Impedance RB20DET - 270cc RB25DE - 270cc VG30et - 270-280cc (turbo ones) 280ZX Turbo 280cc (turbo ones) ??? not sure about this one. 7MGE Toyota 295cc FJ20ET - 360-370cc RB25DET - 370cc (sidefeed) No good RB26DETT - 440cc Low Impedance Nigel

Nubco nubco.com.au looks like they are only a Tassie Firm, how about that, most of the time it a mainland firm that doesn't have a outlet in Tassie.. but I have seen these types off clamps on the net though the pipe size is, Pod to inlet to turbo is 3 inch, turbo to intercooler to throttle body is 2.5 inch, turbo exhaust is 3 inch, no cat, muffler at the end just before it comes out the back Nigel

the more air the afm see, the more fuel it will injected into the engine, ( it only see the air going through it, it has no idea that you have plumbed it into anywhere) here's a picture, the one with the cross will work, but it will run rich when the BOV opens Nigel

Just don't wonder off, we all know what happens if you wonder off... Nigel

if I read this right, air filter to intake pipe to turbo to cooler (inter-cooler I assume) to afm to pipe to throttle body If you put the BOV before the afm and vent it to atmosphere it wouldn't upset anything "i was gonna plumb the bov from between the tb and the afm and throw the air into the front of the turbo." if you put it after the afm back to the intake of the turbo or vent it, you WILL have issues with metered air (rich) my suggestion, move the afm before the turbo, have the bov in front of the throttle, back to turbo intake after the afm (between afm and turbo) draw a picture of it, you will see what I'm saying Nigel

Before the turbo, but after the Air Flow Meter (AFM) or what ever meters the air on the intake side (in my case, its the map sensor in my Megasquirt, connected to the intake manifold) Nigel

no air con on this car, you only need them for like 5 days a year down here :-)

This didn't sell, so I'll get one of the metal merchants to come and collect the car next week, it's a pity since the body's and glass is in such good shape. I don't really have the time, or the energy to play with ebay Nigel

So how are the 'bit' for me coming along, or have you forgotten ? Nigel

I will be checking today, Had to buy a puller, to get the steering arm of the box (it still had the entire steering linkages attached). very tight. Nigel

Hi, I put up a MR30 Fuel Flap / Door on ebay today, item number 180454298440 maybe some one can tell me why I can't find it when I search using some keywords. my first try with selling on ebay. still not sure what I'm doing :-) Dennis, I put that "steering box", into a box tomorrow, and find out what its worth to mail to you Nigel

I've seen holes in the front timing cover once, it had corroded through, into the engine

This switch has to be aligned, ie it's a two way switch, position one, is no throttle position two, full throttle (3/4/ I think it is) there is no linier value with this TPS. Nigel

I assume this is a MR30, look at this, http://noddle.customer.netspace.net.au/MR3...ediagpage5.jpeg it may help diagnosed your problem. here are some more wiring diagrams that may help you out http://noddle.customer.netspace.net.au/MR30 Nigel

You could use the resistor inline with the temp sensor trick, making the EFI system think the engine is colder that what it is, the EFI system would then give the engine more fuel. Nigel

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Datsun-240K-GT-Skyl...=item25580204d0

From that picture, they look to be the same as a C110 (240K), but I can't see how the front of the runner is bolted on, on the 240K the front of the runner bends 90% and a bolt goes through it. Nigel

I will have look into this for you, i't a semi-heavy item, when do you need it ?, after xmas ? Nigel

Yes, steering box still attached to linkages, and pump, but out of car Nigel

This one ?

Here's 2 pictures of what the body looks like, it is a Automatic, box is still in the car, Dash has been pulled out, but is still sitting inside the car, seat are still in the car, drivers side runner were 'hacked' to fit something else, heater box still in car, less the copper pipes that connected to it. rear seat still in car, all electrical wiring is missing, engine / efi exhaust, rear suspension , front suspension, cross member, brake booster, master cylinder all been removed, If some one want some thing, and its worth my while to remove, I can, but be aware I'm in Burnie, Tasmania, so fright on large items will be a killer, and bits can get damaged in freights (like body panels).. and I do work full time, so the week end is when I get stuff done. Nigel

I've pulled the rear diff assembly (whole trailing arm assembly), front stearing assembly (including struts, brakes, power stearing box / pump), cross member, engine, badges, stearing colum, swaybar, and also got the master cylinder / brake boster I'll need to get the locks, heater core, cables, tail lights / headlights, as for the pannel, I have no where to store those parts, It's a pitty since there is nothing wrong with them. the dissy was one of the first thing I took, aswell as the whole EFI that I put into my 240K years ago (the reason on buying the car n the first place), but since moved onto Megasquirt Nigel

Burnie