noddle

Hi, I'm trying to find some where to buy one of these, that doesn't cost my right nut, I priced one through my local Nissan, and they want $240 for it. anyone got a better price / location ? Nigel

Wheres the Add ?, paper or on the web ? Nigel

Turbo, Intercooler, aftermarket fuel / spark management, is the way to go. Nigel

Looks like a 240K box Nigel

I would assume trying to turn the crank with the valves are depressed (since the cams not moving) will bind against some valves, as mentioned above, drop the oil pump and adjust the gear 180 degrees Nigel

I hope you took some pictures that you going to upload some where, so other can see how it's done Nigel

The "orange crap" is to secure the screw / nut from moving, the screw to adjust the hole opening size (for cold start air bypass) Nigel

Try this, http://noddle.110mb.com/Turbo%20Upgrade/index.html if you want a bit more "getup and go" Nigel

I have all ready purchased some, thank you Nigel

http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/application Engine note Year Oil Air Fuel Cabin Air Petrol L24 71-07/73 Z115 - Z92 - Petrol L24 08/73-04/76 Z115 A1238 Z92 - Petrol L24 04/76-78 Z115 - Z92 - I know the Z9 was for a Ford 250 xflow.. Nigel

I'm after 6 x 440cc top feed, low impedance injector, I believe the R32 GTR injectors will do what I want. Nigel

I sent you a PM, Nigel

Hi, I'm in search for injectors (low impedance) for my N/A Turboed L24, the ones I'm running don't flow enough (RB30 200cc) I need the 'pigtail' type (hose type, not O ring) maybe something around 350-400cc so if anyone know what these may come off, so I have a idea what to look for Nigel

It's easier now, been there done that, MS 1 or MS II is the CPU type (depending on what code you going to run as well I believe), I'm using MS II on the v3.0 board over the older v2.2 board, the v3.0 can support direct drivers, which I'm not using, but I believe you can control the coil(s) directly from the v3.0 board, the 2.2 board had to have extra hardware (fly back board I believe) . when I did mine, I just uses MS for fuel, running the original dissy, then later I set-up waste spark, but the instructions (manual), are well done, easy step by step (as long as you know what you want). the actual first time set-up was a little over wheeling, but if you go through the manual it has answers for 95% of what you need. it would also help if it wasn't your Daily Drive, so you don't stress out if it's not doing what you want it to do. Nigel

Use Megasquirt if you have the time and money. works great with fuel and timing.. Nigel

If you end up wrecking it, I may be interested in the turbo on it, but I would need some more information about it Nigel

I did some data logging this mornining, IAT (intake air temp) maxed out at 30.7C with the intercooler, instead of the 60Cish it would be when doing a 1st, 2nd, 3rd flat out run, without the intercooler I'm happy with it now, engine revs more freely now (I hit 6.55k RPM on my run today) compared to when it was N/A, it seemed to take a lot to get to 5.5K. Now I need to get some wider wheels to help stop wheel spin. and I modded my BOV, it appears to make difference. Nigel

Is the fuel pump running, with my MR30 skyline EFI, the fuel pump would run for 3-5 seconds when the key was first turned on,and then stop. Once the engine started, the fuel pump would keep running. Nigel

Not really, I've fitted my intercooler, but I need to hack my BOV, it's off a R32/33, I think it's opening by itself at about 7ish, so I'm going to do this mod http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html I think I'm going to leave the wastegate as it is, so up to about 5K it'll run about 7-10 PSI, and over that it can over boost to about 12-15, I'm running rich and pulling spark at about 5K Nigel

JJay, that BOV never turned up.. I'll put it down to be more careful next time I buy something from here..

It's a N/A L28, but when I do it, It will be fitted with a turbo. I need to look into getting dished pistons for it Nigel

I Had my son in with me, we were still tuning Megasquirt when this happened the first time, it gave me a big scare, I don't think my son was very impressed.. but I must say, I love the power now, comparing the power from the FI and turbo to my other 240K, it's a huge difference. I now need to pull my finger out and build my L28 I have waiting. Nigel

my original testing before I opened the waste gate hole a little was, I left the waste gate open (unconnected from the flapper arm), PSI started to build a 4k, at 5k it hit 10psi, I lifted my foot when it hit 12psi, I haven't disconnected the actuator this time to test, but I'm very sure it opens to the max, but I will test to make sure. Nigel

I must say, turboing my N/A L24 has made a huge difference, it has a lot more torque, (above 1800 RPM) it throws you back into the seats when you stick it into it, the only down side is that, I need to be so much more careful in the wet, I can easily break tracking in 3rd, and that's a bit scary when you not expecting it (at 110Kmh) Nigel

As "OUTATIME" says, center punch so you can clock it the same when you put it back together, mine was very easy to pull apart. it was more trouble getting it out of the car (240K). my issue is too much boost. on a N/A engine, I don't want to destroy piston ring lands. as far as I can tell, the waste gate is open fully. it just doesn't have enough through put. maybe when I'm running the intercooler, 12psi may not be a issue, will have to wait and see. Nigel