Lunatikk

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WHY is is that so many people on here continue to spout soooo much mis-information & try to pass it off as FACT??? IF your Skyline is "uncomfortable for long periods on coarse roads" you have a bad choice of suspension fitted to the car (ALL modern Skyline's run "coilovers") or you drive it like an idiot IF your Skyline is heavy on fuel, you have a bad tune or you drive it like an idiot If your Skyline constantly breaks or it spends more time off the road than on, you probably bought a dog or you drive it like an idiot If you are constantly getting hassled by the law, you're either "unlucky" or you drive it like an idiot Can anyone see a pattern here??....... My point is, whilst the car usually takes the blame, it is more often than not a scapegoat for the real cause of the problems To answer the orig Q's, the right suspension will totally transform the way the car "feels" & you CAN remove the harshness whilst keeping fantastic handling characteristics. Same goes for the power delivery- the RB20 will probably never be a Torque-Monster down low but again a LOT can be found in the right components & set-up of said components. Getting the car to do what you want is the easy bit, the hard part is finding the people with the RIGHT information & ignoring all the other "EXPERTS" out there Try Sydneykid (Gary) for suspension advice & 3lit3 32 (Dan) for advice on the RB20 Good Luck & hang in there, the end-results will be worth it!!

As Simon said it's mostly a "feel" thing with plugs & be v-careful with over-tightening 'cos you run the real risk, esp with an alloy head, of pulling the thread & whilst you can sometimes do a dodgy repair in-car it's usually a head off proposition to fix properly

Man I'd come but i'm only new to the site and dont really know anyone ^^^ What better way to Meet the Feebles BTW count me in........

From memory it's "Full Cold"

Since you're going to be on the coast, give these guys a try. I haven't personally dealt with them but have them recommended by several people in the past. They are also a bit pricey supposedly, but as in all things you get what you pay for...... Depulu Wheels 07 5597 3891

Don't worry Troy it won't take much tempting to get me back to the Island Around 15yrs ago I was lucky enough to spend a day running round the track on a big-bore Jap bike & needless to say had an absolute ball!! There were 28 of us there on the day & I had the 2nd fastest lap, but the fastest bike was an ex-Malboro Yamaha OWO1 Superbike so I was pretty happy all up. Curious to see how the GTR will stack up in comparison. When you get the chance Troy (or anyone who might have the info for that matter) I'd appreciate it if you could PM me any info on track events coming up in Vic this yr & I'll see if I can't get myself down there for at least some of 'em. & Gary, please don't at any point think I don't hear what you've got to say in regards to the performance of the std GTR braking hardware but in my situation, & especially considering I ended up with 3 sets of brand-new rotors & pads, compared to the price of buying say 3 sets of DBA 5000's, 3 sets of good quality pads & 1 pair of hats etc I effectively ended up getting the Brembo calipers pretty cheap if not for free which in anyone's language is a deal too good to pass up.

Nothing like leaving it 'til the last minute......... Count me in

Well it took awhile but I finally got around to fitting the 8-spot Brembos a few mths ago. The package I bought came with 3 sets of new 330mm rotors (Brembo, Hawk & PFC) with 1 set (8 pads, 4 per caliper) in Hawk HT-10 compound & 2 sets of PFC 93's, custom alloy hats & offset brackets for the calipers. I had some custom brake lines made up (ADR approved, PM me for more info) & bolted everything up. The Brembo rotors were pre-bedded so I went with them & the HT-10 pads. Initially I was concerned how they were going to work with the std master cyl & the F/R balance as my GTR still has std non-Brembo rear brakes but to be honest I was worried for nothing in the end. The pedal feel & travel is as close to std that I cannot honestly say if there is a difference at all & the HT-10 compound pads are absolutely fine for everyday road-use, even though they are considered a race pad (rated at 150-700c). They ARE a bit on the noisy side but whilst it might piss others around the car off it doesn't worry me at all. One thing that helps is the pistons in the calipers have springs behind them which both help minimize pad knock-off but also supply a small amount of pre-load of the pad on the rotor surface, which is not enough to actually cause wear but does a magic job of keeping enough residual heat in both the rotor & the pads. End-result is, within a few km's of driving from dead cold & without any pedal application what-so-ever there is enough heat in there for everyday road use. I had RB74 pads in the std calipers that came off the car & they are comparable for cold-bite but as I said, within a few km's it becomes irrelevant anyway. The only fault I can give so far, which is really no surprise, is the wet weather performance. Believe it or not, even with us being in the grip of the worst drought on record I got caught in a heavy tropical down-pour on the 2nd day of having the brakes on the car. At highway speed & around 40km's into the trip (so there was already heat in the brakes) the rain hit & within minutes an idiot in a 4WD tried to change lanes on top of me. The end result was a pretty violent shudder from the brakes but even though I'd had 2 good bedding cycles (8-10 progressively harder stops from 160-40) with a full overnight cool-down in between some of that may well of been the fact everything was "new" & still settling in but of course it hasn't rained enough since to replicate & compare. I've only had 1 6-lap session at QR & all this has done is highlight the inadequacies of the road rubber rather than any advantage the brakes might give over the std setup. I do have some 2nd-hand Dunlop semi's here that will be on the car next time out but with a std sump etc on the car I'm looking to fit an AccuSump that I've got here before I start G-loading the chassis too much. I'm also working towards putting some logging capability in the car so as soon as I can collect some quantitative data on braking performance I'll post it up but one thing I can say is that even without ducting & on a 32c ambient temp day I had no fade or sponginess at all, even with Dot 4 fluid. The car was an under-steering pig, but the brakes were brilliant I did have some pics but it looks like my phone ate them. I'll post some new ones later. Don't know if any of that helps but if you've got any Q's, fire away!!

Take another look at the pics & you might just see that it was indeed THE CAR that was on the wrong side of the road (LHD NOT RHD vehicles) Don't automatically conclude the truck driver is at fault or you're no better than the people who take great satisfaction in categorizing us all as "hoons" simply thru our choice of vehicle. Also rather than simply an accident I'd almost go as far as to say this looks like "suicide by truck". Too square a hit to be an accident, esp as you can see the truck has made an effort to avoid the impact.

Yep as Mike said, check your brake fluid level

A lot of guys have gambled on a $15k GTR & most have bought hand-grenades with shorter-than-acceptable fuses. To me any decent R32 GTR is a $30k proposition & yeah I know the prices have been dropping lately, but you really do get what you pay for & that is still as relevant as it was 12mths ago. If you go into the deal with a budget of $25-$30k you stand a very good chance of getting yourself a nice car. You can either buy a good one straight-up or gamble on nothing going wrong with a cheapie BUT if you only have $15k to spend all up, when not if something goes wrong you'll be stuck with a car you can't use. If it doesn't, you're ahead but is it really worth the gamble?? Also do not under any circumstances scrimp on insurance, there are waaaay too many stories of "I didn't get insurance 'cos...." that have ended in tears. Don't be another one. Good Luck

Nope they just slide on the studs & can be a right bit@h to get off sometimes. The std rotors should have a pair of threaded holes near the studs, soak the studs with some WD etc & wind a pair of bolts into the threaded holes (even 1/2 turns to both sides) & they should lever off...... It's also worth cleaning off the hubs with a wire brush or soft pad on a drill etc to help the new rotors run true inside the calipers & if the regs allow, get rid of the backing plates to help with cooling etc Hope that helps

Either machine or replace your rotors & BED THEM IN PROPERLY http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Mate the best thing you can do is bolt 'em up & see how they feel. I spent a stupid amount of time worrying about & trying to work out what the balance would be between these: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=93935&hl= & the std non-Brembo 2-pot rear brakes & to my surprise once I got them on the car (finally) they were 100% fine. F-R balance is great (on the HT-10 pads, haven't tried the PFC-93's), modulation right at the point of ABS stepping in is also no probs & the fronts work hard enough to glow cherry-red with no fade or change to the above etc so stop stressing, bolt 'em up & if you do have a prob, try playing with diff pad compounds to dial 'em in. Also take a look at these articles, worked a treat for me & some of the best advice I've read or heard on bedding in brakes. Good Luck & Enjoy!! http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinperformance.shtml

Unless you're going with a proper wideband kit, an AF meter is more gimmicky than useful

This is partly a shameless plug but mostly a fix for everyone running a conventional battery mounted in the boot. Please read on......... There's an old saying from a Castrol ad campaign back-in-the-day, "Oils ain't Oils" & the same can pretty much be said for batteries as well. I'm assuming (please correct me if I'm wrong, I drive an R32 GTR) that the R34's, like the R33's have a boot-mounted battery. If that is the case, everyone who has a boot-mounted battery should either have a Sealed Lead Acid or a Gel-Cell fitted, or failing that have the conventional battery contained in a sealed battery box with an external vent. The reason for this is, when a conventional (non-sealed) battery is charging it releases Hydrogen gas which obviously has the potential to go BOOM if enough of it builds up & is somehow ignited. This has seemingly been lost on most people, incl compliance shops & RWC stations as almost every single Import I have seen with a factory boot-mounted battery has been fitted with a non-sealed conventional battery. It can also lead to having gases inside the car itself which is also something to be avoided. Now the shameless plug part- I am soon to be registering as a Trader on SAU & amongst other products I will be offering Sealed Lead Acid batteries specifically to deal with this problem. Batteries will range from around 300CCA to almost 1000CCA which will have enough reserve grunt to let you run a big-amp sound system for awhile & still start the car so you can get home again so not only will they power everything you're ever likely to bolt into a car, it won't run the risk of turning your Pride & Joy into a fiery comet either. Now I'm sure some of you are thinking "WTF, this won't happen etc" but none of us think we'll ever be in an accident or blow an engine either but we also know it can & sometimes does happen. For anyone who is interested, either post here or PM me with details of your car & I'll get back to you with a price incl postage.

If you got the wreck FOR FREE it still wouldn't come close to a "cheap" repair bill. I've worked in damaged-auction yards in the past & as soon as you see Heavy Structural in the damage listings it's usually only viable if you own a shop with all the equipment & can do it all yourself. To pay to have the work done would be prohibitive- remember it was written-off in the first place for a reason. I've even processed vehicles that had VERY minimal panel damage that were financial write-offs purely based on the cost of replacing the air-bags etc. Worth a look maybe, but I'm guessing it would only end in tears.....

They need to be classes as a Heavy Vehicle/Special Vehicle or whatever it takes, with appropriate licence requirements, maybe that will keep some (but sadly not all) off the wankers outa 'em...... Most people are only "commuters" anyway, very few of the people we share the roads with on a daily basis %-wise are true "drivers" but as someone so famously said in a post on SAU last yr, it's cheaper for the Gov't to let people continue to die in "accidents" that truly address the issue & TEACH PEOPLE TO DRIVE!!

In

Mate in all honesty, with all the s/h GTR's already here for sale, why would you take the gamble on buying a car sight-unseen from Japan?? I went thru a similar thought-process 18mths ago after wanting a GTR for 15yrs (yep I'm almost an old prick), drove a handful of local cars, didn't rush it & ended up with a very solid car. I paid slightly higher than average price at the time but ended up with a car well above average condition of those that I've looked at before or since. Maybe if you combined it with an actual trip to Japan you might come out with a good deal & effectively come away with a "free" holiday once you count the off-set of what you saved on the car itself vs what an equivalent car woulda cost you here, but it might also pay to ask BB about that 'cos I might be completly wrong..... Another thing to remember, with the current compliance laws your freshly imported GTR has to be 100% original which tends to once again tip the "value-for-money" scale back in favour of an already registered & nicely modded local car. Decisions decisions

The don't have to be BOXED, they have to be SECURED........ (^^ read above ^^)

This originally came from one of Roy's posts, all credit etc is his R32 GTR (Non V-Spec,) Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 25.4 Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4 Front rotors (diam x thk) - 296×32 Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2 Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18 R32 GTR V-Spec / R33 / 34 GTR with Brembos Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 26.9 Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - (44+38)×2 ... leading pistons smaller then trailing Front rotors (diam x thk) - 324×30 Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40×2 Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 300×22

Change your filter & don't buy fuel there again.........

In