Lunatikk

Think about this: By the time a conventionally-configured car is in either 5th or 6th gear, (considering both are overdrive gears) the tailshaft is actually spinning FASTER at any given engine speed than the new GTR tailshaft which will always be at 1:1 with engine revs. I also think from memory the new GTR has a composite/carbon fibre tailshaft which goes a long way to negating problems with harmonics etc

What I'm personally really waiting for is to see the new car in tarmac events Like Targa Tassie, maybe even with some official Factory support to match Subaru's effort etc. Wonder what it would take to get Jimmy outa the Porka............

For everyone who is whingeing about the new GTR potentially getting a DSG 'box, how many of you have actually driven a car fitted with said 'box???? Don't panic, they ARE a good thing, just different........

I'm guessing Foreign Object Ingestion- were you running filter/s on the intake side of the pump?? Cousin of mine at one time was doing autopsies on failed Bosch fuel pumps & 90%+ of failures were caused by the pump itself sucking up crap.

Keeping the front wheel on the ground wouldn't be the biggest problem with any of these but stopping the torque-reaction throwing you into oncoming traffic or simply body-slamming you into the bitumen definitely would be!!

Michael if you've only driven the car on the road there's a better than average chance it's simply the road-surface camber causing the inside front to lock first, my Brembo 8's do exactly the same thing on certain roads. As long as all your alignment specs are OK it shouldn't be anything to worry about. Something else to think about is how they brakes have been bedded. From the pics there looks like there's a nice layer of pad material on the rotors (although pics can be deceiving). Even if you think you know how to bed brakes in this article is well worth the read 'cos, with respect, I have spoken with several people about this exact matter in the past & even though they claimed to know it all, in reality they had NFI...... Enjoy!! http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Take a look at where the throttle cable is bolted to a bracket at the engine end & you'll see a threaded section with a nut either side of the bracket. Back one nut off & take up the slack with the other but don't take it all up, leave a few mm so you don't hang the throttle slightly open. I'm sure you'll work it out.........

Mate to be honest I've only done a few thousand k's on this setup & I haven't had the pads out to take a look but once I do I'll post up the info.

I'm not sure if the calipers being slightly off-set would or should be a prob, as long as they are still running square to the rotor. With all pistons sharing the same fluid circuit per caliper they should "sort themselves out" for want of a better term & simply travel as far as required per side/pad to deliver equal pressure to both sides of the rotor. Also in regards to pad drag on the rotors, my Brembo 8's actually have springs fitted behind the pistons which acts to both minimise knock-off & provide just enough contact to build & keep enough temp in the pads & rotors that initial bite & thermal shock is never an issue. This allows me to run Hawk HT-10 compound pads with a temp window of 149 C - 871 C as a street pad with no issues or "oh f**k" moments. Literally takes less than 2k's of driving from dead cold to have usable heat with NO application to help it on it's way. It's obviously a different story if only one side of the caliper is dragging though........

The ONLY way things like this will stop happening is for everyone who cops a bullshit fine/harassment etc to go thru the inconvenience of taking it thru court, turn up well armed & have the facts give the beak no option but to throw it out. Only then will some sort of precedent be set & hopefully the cowboys within the service will be finally told to back the f**k off & leave us alone when it comes to this sort of petty crap. There is no doubt that police have their place in the world, but sometimes some of them need to be reminded exactly where that place is........

Could well be the cable it just dry Disconnect it at the speedo end & spray some lube down there, it will work it's way thru the whole assy quickly enough & see if that fixes your prob

PM Sent

I'll be there

Mate I really don't want to come across as a prick, but unless the conversion can be done as a 100% bolt-on without having to butcher the N1 in any way, please don't do it. When I went shopping for my GTR a few yrs ago I had the chance to buy a clean, 100% original V-spec II but after careful consideration I realised a car like that deserved to be kept on it's original condition which is something I couldn't see myself doing so I instead bought a freshly re-built "std-issue" GTR & I couldn't be happier. By all means get yourself a GTR but please think seriously about going with a non "spec" version. I know there's every chance whoever buys the N1 will trash, thrash & otherwise f**k with it without truly realising what they have but I'd also like to think whoever buys it will keep it in the condition it deserves. Having said all that, the Stagea auto will probably be the go & might even be a "bolt-in" & it that's the case, grab the N1 & enjoy every single day of owning it. If it helps you any, shoot me a PM & I might be able to help you out with sourcing the parts you need.

That should be the conversion multiplier from HP to Kw

How about rear only for R32 GTR??

*DISCLAIMER* The below is a loose quote of a conversation between a well-known "old school" Brisbane tuner & myself not long after I bought my GTR. I myself have not confirmed what he said to me & will therefore recommend you do your own research BEFORE attempting this at home. This guy was involved with the build of my engine & was adamant that std Nissan injectors were considerably under-rated from the factory & I should have no problems flowing enough fuel to create 600bhp considering the hardware already attached. What rail pressure was required to do this was not discussed, but it would have to be a fair chunk higher than std which in itself is not really a good idea. Under bonnet fires fed by leaking fuel delivery systems get real nasty REAL fast...... I do intend to actually test the flow-rates of assorted std injectors vs rail pressure simply to answer the Q of whether this is in fact attainable but only in a test rig & even if it is doable, bigger injectors & lower psi is always going to be safer than smaller injectors & huge psi. Food for thought.........

I used to drag-race bikes pretty seriously around 10yrs ago & whilst I don't mean to rain on everyone's parade, it needs to be said that everyone that went to run at Benaraby would usually end up running a good few 10th's quicker than anywhere else in the country. There's no doubting this is a serious & well-built car & it must be a hell of a lot of fun to drive but I hear the car is headed to Willowbank soon & from there will come a time-slip that no-one can debate or deny. My $$$'s on a 10.7-ish if they can replicate the run from Mackay....... Good luck with it & more power to those involved with the car- either way you cut it a 10sec streeter def deserves respect

Man did you even WATCH her video???? She has gotta be one of the most boring f**ks you could end up with, $$$ or no $$$ I am kinda amused by a lot of the comments here though. It was her GRANDFATHER who made the family wealth by turning a very modest food shop into the Hilton empire, not her parents & regardless of losing her Inheritance, thru the family "name" she is independently wealthy anyway......

Mate that's excellent advice, right up until you said "admit that you did make a mistake". NEVER under any circumstances admit anything, especially when the matter is to be taken further.....

245-255-265, take your pick I'll PM you some prices & options next wk

PM sent

Knew I'd seen 'em somewhere (AFM plug)- bit pricey but it's an option............ http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Z32-AFM...1QQcmdZViewItem

Hey Max, PM sent For anyone else in need of tyres, I can supply good quality, brand-name (no Chinese crap) performance tyres shipped anywhere in Aust at pretty good prices. Yes these are second-hand but I run them on my own GTR & wouldn't send out anything I wouldn't be prepared to drive on myself. PM me with what you need & I'll shoot you back a price ASAP

Here's a wild stab........ Check the boot on the bottom of that particular coil & I'm guessing it will be somehow damaged. At some time some water got in there (washing down the engine maybe) & with the heat from the engine, boiled off/evaporated away & the remnants of what was left behind is what you are seeing in the white-ish powder. I did exactly the above with my own car & even though I was (or so I thought) being careful with the amount of water going onto the top covers etc I still managed to fill not one but two of the plug recesses in the head. On closer inspection someone previous to me had, for whatever reason, taken a blade to the bottom of the coil boot. Shouldn't happen, but it can & does