Lunatikk

Maybe one day if you're ever unfortunate enough to have your pride & joy burn to the ground 'cos your SuperCHEAP extinguisher isn't up to the task you'll have your answer.

I really REALLY wish people would stop posting bullshit on here as "fact". I suggest you all read this article: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm & consider very closely this statement: "Simply stated, bed-in is the process of depositing an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer, on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc. That's it. End of discussion........." So with that in mind can you please explain how ANY pad can come "Pre-bedded"??????

For anyone looking for good quality tools at a good price, I'm an agent for T&E Tools. PM or SMS anytime- 0413 615955 Also for any mods that get their nose outa joint over this, I have lost count of how many PM's I have sent in relation to becoming a trader on SAU so don't just delete this post, talk to me......

I cannot believe the amount of people who rarely if ever check under their bonnets until something goes wrong. All my life I have been in the habit of checking all fluid levels on vehicles if they have been sitting overnight & before first start-up. Cars, bikes, trucks- you need to check 'em all & I suggest everyone that reads this get in the habit of doing the same. It only takes 2 mins afterall...... I will admit I got caught out with my GTR not long after I bought it with slightly low brake fluid levels but the warning light let me know it was low & than only under severe G-load. How you can let the reservoir completely empty out, ESPECIALLY after you yourself said you could smell something, is beyond me. No wonder "accidents" happen

Unfortunately with early R32 RB26's it's not as simple as just changing out the oil pump. Early RB26's ran a much shorter drive collar on the crank snouts & the only way to rectify this is "engine out, crank out". From there you can either choose to have an extended collar fitted to your existing crank, replace it with a later model item that comes from the factory with the longer crank snout or go "all out" with a stroker bottom-end from HKS, Jun etc. With the cost & effort involved to go this far it's a good idea to look at the viability of re-building the rest of the engine. Forged pistons are good insurance for when you get the bug & want to run more boost & whatever you do, NEVER RE-USE OLD ROD BOLTS!! Have the rods prepped, re-sized, new bolts & you should be good-to-go. Another option worth considering is going to a dry-sump setup. A lot of people consider a dry-sump to be over-kill for anything short of a dedicated race car but with a well sorted GTR they are almost mandatory in my opinion. Not only will this take care of "oil surge" by making sure the engine has a supply of oil 100% of the time, by plumbing a scavenge stage to the back of the head it stops all the oil collecting in the head & away from the pick-up as tends to happen with the factory wet-sump. I am about to start offering dry-sump systems initially for all RB-series engines on a "change-over" basis, meaning, where possible, we can ship out a complete kit incl sump & once you fit everything, you send your old sump back so as to minimise the amount of time your car is off the road. Also by the time you factor in the cost of a new or modified crank & new N1 or Jun oil pump (which you won't need with a dry-sump) & an extended & baffled sump etc a complete dry-sump system becomes a lot more financially viable than most people think. For more info, prices etc on all of the above, send me a PM or call anytime John 0413 615955

It IS so you can brake with either foot

And it should be exactly the same here. Anyone who can't afford insurance sure as hell can't afford to pay for the damage they cause with their fantastic skills, or lack thereof.

Isn't it funny, if it was one of us or anyone in a Jap import for that matter the media, police, Gov't & everyone else with a soap-box woulda been screaming "Hoon this, Ban that" etc etc f**ken Hypocrites

Retreads are good for 6x4 garden trailers that get used 4 times a yr & then only to dump grass clippings. Nothing else You have PM

I can't see how running in RWD only will help. The power transfer is done at the gearbox & the drive shafts, prop shaft & front diff centre are always rotating when the vehicle is motion, whether there is torque being put to them or not As for R32/33 transfer cases, I believe they are the same animal but the ACTIVATION is different between the two. The ATESSA computer in the R33 also processes information 4x faster & the combination of the two is why the R32 is in most cases a more "tail-happy" car to drive compared to 33's & 34's.

Mate if you've already pulled the front shaft that's all you've got to do

Yeah we know WHY it's doing it, we're both concerned as to what the consequences are. It really has transformed the way the car drives, & def in a good way but if it's going to be at the expense of the transfer-case clutches then it's obviously not such a good thing.....

Hey mate Just try eBay, I got one last yr & the going price seems to be around $65 http://search.ebay.com.au/search/search.dl...satitle=gtr+key

PM Sent

I found the exact same thing when I swapped out the rear tyres last wk- as little as 3mm less rear diameter is enough to trigger the ATESSA. Like Angus I'm showing around 1-3-5Kg/m on normal driving & the car responds fantastically when thrown aggressively into corners etc but I am concerned as to what this is doing to the 4WD clutches in the transfer case. Does anyone have definite knowledge on whether this is damaging or not??

Might just be a rather massive boost leak but it might also be catastrophic turbo failure. Take it to a reputable shop & get it checked out, preferably on a tilt-tray

If you're still here for the Queens Birthday w'end, go out to Willowbank & get your fix of Nitro fumes, since you guys in Vic have been without a real drag-strip for yrs

It's also a good idea to actually leave the lines under the car (capped at both ends) as they make good fuel lines if you ever have the need in the future. R32 only for obvious reasons

Mate just stick with 17x9" rims & 255/40/17 tyres at all 4 corners & you truly won't go wrong

Something else to keep in mind in regards to tyre sizes- last wk I swapped out the rears only on my GTR (255/40/17 at all 4 corners on 9" rims) to find tyre A that went on the rear with approx 7mm tread (s/h) was actually 3mm SMALLER CIRCUMFERENCE than tyre B on the front with approx 2mm of tread at identical pressures etc. This was enough to trigger a light torque-split at all times which is an obvious prob for GTR's but regardless of what you drive, keep in mind that NOT ALL carcass sizes from different manufacturers will be identical, regardless of the markings. Also in regards to speedo error, the only true way is to use a GPS unit. Every other gadget you use gets its speed signal from INSIDE the vehicle so whilst it may well read different to your dash, doesn't necessarily mean it in itself is accurate. Alternately maybe your local dyno is an option, but again you're at the mercy of the calibration....

There is no reason at all to cut the wires. Disassemble the plug, pull the wires out (noting the config, take a pic) & re-assemble Simple BTW I sell all NGK/NTK products, PM for price etc

Take the front right wheel off & un-bolt centre hub bolt & the bottom arm. Dis-connect tie-rod end & the whole assembly should swing away, usually bringing the front-shaft with it unless you actually hold the shaft & help it slide out of the hub spline. Should hopefully make sense when you're actually looking at the parts Good Luck

I'm going to state the obvious here & suggest you take very serious notice to the advice John from UAS gave in regards to where to mount the cooler. Do you think he went to the effort of placing it in a protected (relatively anyway) space & ran the ducting etc just for the fun of it???? BTW, nice work with the fix. Just move the cooler before it BBQ's you or someone else

Mate in all honesty, considering your position my suggestion would be forget about modding the engine & concentrate on suspension mods. You'll learn a lot & by the time you hit 25 you can get the car you want & go nuts on it. HP isn't everything.....

That Interlagos Fire looks "interesting" but I'll bet it's got as much to do with the application as the paint itself. It would also be interesting to see if anyone can replicate the finish without their own robotic paint line stashed in the back shed