Topaz

Drivers side, strut tower under the bonnet. There will also be 1 or 2 plates with more info on them. Make sure you match the number on the strut tower to the 'blue' plate. If you have a second plate it will probably be green, thats a compliance plate.

I am at 228rwkw at the moment and my injectors are at 90%.

Pop the horn button, remove the nut (about ~18mm I think it was) and pull the steering wheel off. If you are having trouble with pulling it directly off, knock around the outside of the wheel with the palm of your hand ro loosen the grip from the spline. USE FORCE!! Then you see the see the horn/ground adapter for the horn, unplug that and.....I guess, attach your new wheel . I put a MOMO wheel on my 32 and theres no way you can attach the horn power/ground to the power/ground on the wheel. I just wound the ground wire around inside the BOSS Kit and made a contact with ground. Dodgy but it has always word since.

Well R33's come out of the factory with a lead+iron composite monocoque, so acceleration is a problem . ECU+EBC will help bring the full boost on earlier. For 250kw+ you will need to look at injectors, fuel pump (Bosch 040/044) and a bigger turbo.

Yours is the first RB25 I have heard of going twin turbo. Did you perform and post diagnostics to find out why and how it blew? I turned my controller down to 40% duty rate of the valve unit. Does anyone have a Profec B and can tell me what sort of PSI that would give me?. I think at about 50% it was slightly under 1bar.

OK, thanks, I'll take another pic of the inside and post it up here as well...

GReddy PRofec B-Spec II, installed on Tuesday, a little complicated when trying to adjust boost using percentages but its a great little unit. A lot cheaper and more discrete than what your after though.... Do you have a Power FC? Have you considered the PFC Boost Adaptor Kit?

Ah, front 3 cylinders, gotcha... Thanks N I B, at least I have some hope with them surviving, might still turn them down a bit though... My GTR has a 3" mandrel bent exhaust with dumps and along with the pods was the only things that could have affected the power output before.

Nah, thats cool, I need the info about what they can take. Its just that these percentages in the PRofec B are a little confusing as to what boost in pounds or bar you are putting into the turbos.... GTRgeoff - are you serious, 5psi . Mine had been running stock (11psi) boost since I bought it no probs. Why would it has let go at such a low boost? and this was the compressor wheel, not the exhaust wheel right! is that a strange occurance?

I have one of these and can vouch for them. Cheap an affective TT with battery voltage and o2 volatege sensors

Black with white wheels = sex on sex on POTENZAS

230rwkw, is that all?!, I am at 228rwkw at the moment which is limited by the injectors and fuel pump because it flattens off at the top end. and yours let go at 11psi, thats not good

Turbos are from an R34 and it was tuned with a max boost of around 1.11bar. I tuned it down to about 0.98bar

Just wondering if anyone has some fairly major mods but still have the ceramic turbos in their GTR's? I have a Power FC and a boost controller set at very slightly over 1bar, with injectors and fuel pump planned next. How much power can an RB26 pull before steel wheel turbos will be needed? I have 305.8rwhp at the moment

100kPa = 1.01792kg/cm2 = 1bar

I have some parts for sale that I can't see myself using on my GTR. LOCATION: Perth PAYMENT: Wire / COP DELIVERY: Any method, buyers expense REASONS: Nowhere to fit the filter, too tricky. Spacers helped HICAS problem. Had PowerFC installed 1. GREX Remote Oil Filter Kit -- $130 (Paid $163 a while ago, its more than that now) [sold to stR33ter] 2. TOMEI HICAS Lock Kit -- $120 (Paid $152 a while ago, its more than that now) [sold to MissingLink] 3. N1-SPORTS ECU -- $130 (Not a standard GTR ECU, came out of my 1993 R32 GTR a few days ago) Remote filter and HICAS lock are 100% mint and unused. The box from the remote filter was used as insulation in the box when it arrived and I have since thrown it out. When the ECU was in my car, it felt very stable and a dyno last year showed that it was very smooth right through the rev range, no spikes/drop-offs etc....

Only pulled upto 305.8hp (228.1kW) with my PFC and about 1bar of boost on stock turbos. I gained 45hp mid range though so I'm happy with that. But the top end is limited by the Injectors and Fuel Pump, so they are next.

Could it be an N1 GTR chip? How do I find out what it does differently to a stock ECU? I searched google for the numbers and names on the plate but found nothing...

Interesting... anyone else have any info on the numbers?

D-Jetro tuned in the other day, stock ECU removed and here it is.... What have I got here? can someone enlighten me? Maybe chuck it through Nissan FAST? N1-SPORTS...is that good?

wow, shows what I know, I thought there was sort of a air gate that acted like a choke on a carbaretor style engine

OK, I was 99% sure that was what had to be done, but thanks for the confirmation I didn't know whether unplugging them rendered them constantly open or closed, so its open then... thnks

One quick question here, my D-Jetro is being installed tomorrow, I am very excited. But, what happens to my AFM's? As you can see from my sig, the next thing i want to get is the D-Jetro air intake kit which will take the AFM's out altogether.... What happens for now though? cheers

How much was the engine spray?

Ferrari Testarossa, best Ferrari ever built. But I dunno, I think only a coin toss would help me decide and if Testarossa came up.....I'd flip again