cordiapower

could it be that gearbox was not properly installed, or as rb30 crank end was machined to have better grip for n1 oil pump drive that something was changed causing gearbox not to sit properly and making crank to be pushed against block hence causing crank central thrust bearing to snap...

no oil flow happened after 1500km and its due to snapped central bearing (one side of it snapped) in the middle of crankshaft, im wondering why did it happen after only 1500km and how could it snap in such a short time?

they were i assume because of no oil flow?

If it matters its got Extreme heavy duty 9 pack ceramic brass button 2500lb pressure plate clutch

I have a problem for rb30 experts: I put rebuilt rb30/25 in my r33. I found out just after 1500km that car was stalling whenever the clutch pedal is pressed and was loosing oil pressure and short after oil pressure lamp was turning on and after some checks oil pressure to the head was zero. The engine was pulled apart and we found out that central thrust bearing in the middle of crankshaft has grinded one sidewall and snapped that side off completely blocking oil flow...what could cause this? Bear in mind that car has all new parts weisco forged pistons, rb30 rods, race bearings and done only 1500km? thanks

size, offset

would they suit r33gtst

I checked the piston numbers and it seem that they are ones with 7:1 compression, they are nothing like those cubes used, they have much bigger channel on top hence lower compression, i redid compression test myself today and testing with full throttle it shown 120psi dead even on all but cylinder 3 and 5 which were bit lower around 115psi, and without throttle 115 on all but 3 and 5 which were 110psi, i dont know which method is more correct but as you can see cylinders 3 and 5 are lower on compression by 5psi, is it acceptable? and is there any resonable explanation why 3 and 5 are bit lower...?

I'll try to find out which part number pistons they used, anyway according to dyno graph car makes lots more power down low than standard engine at the same boost, like 20hp more at 2500rpm and 80hp more @3500rpm and 100hp more@4500rpm, with heaps more torque...what could be downside of lower compression pistons?

Hey everybody, just got rb25/30 combo dropped in my car, it has been freshly rebuilt with forged WISECO pistons, has heavily ported head and it made 414rwhp at 18psi with ITS 57 turbo which is equivalent to GT30 I think, now it made a lot of power, it uses standard head gasket but did compression test after maybe 1500km and it has compression ratios between 110-115psi, is that too low even for wiseco pistons? I was told it is built for 8:1 compression ratio but this compression results seem low? It has VCT setup as well. Anyone used WISECO pistons on here and what is compression on their engines?

is it rb25 head?

pm sent

pm sent

whats needed to make this engine suitable for gts-t and how much $$$, also what injectors does it have?

condition?

r33 gts-t, t-57 stage6 ITS turbo high mounted, sard injectors, tomei fuel pump, intercooler etc. nine pack clutch, wolf3d computer, screamer pipe etc. these are the figures i took from my dyno sheet as i couldnt scan it, does it seem laggy? car is only standard internals so timing is retarded and you can see the difference in power it made when timing was increased from 13 to 15... at drags i did only 13.8@175km/h with 347atw and 14.2 with 372atw due to no traction and i think clutch is not handling the power (9 pack extreeme clutch 2500lbs pressure plate) as at drags after a run or a little burnout it just doesnt wanna go in 3rd and 4th gear so ill prolly need twin plate especially after rebuild and more power... my question is does it seem laggy turbo from these figures as it makes less than 100kw around 3500rpm and less than 150rwkw under 4000rpm, while standard turbo with upped boost made over 100rwkw at 3000rpm and same power as big turbo at 4000rpm, and as you can see more timing gives more power but only after 4000rpm so if i do rebuild i will have more power (400+ rwhp) but still exactly the same response under 4000rpm and when boost hits it will make car loose traction even more and be even more undrivable...what do you think? 15-16 psi boost 347hpatw 13 timing 2770rpm 78rwhp (58rwkw) 2950 88 (66) 3400 125 (93) 3850 187 (140) 4300 215 (160) 4750 260 (194) 5200 292 (218) 5650 312 (233) 6100 333 (248) 6380peak 340 (254) 6550 347max (259) 7000 342(255) 15-16 psi boost 372.5hpatw 15 timing 2770rpm 79rwhp (59rwkw) 2950 87 (65) 3400 126 (94) 3850 197 (147) 4300 250 (187) 4750 290 (216) 5200 313 (233) 5650 338 (252) 6100 359 (268) 6380peak 372.5max (278) 6550 368 (275) 7000 363 (271)

hey there, i got r33 gts-t 372hp atw on standard internals, and lately there is a lot of blow by oil coming through air filter, i installed catch can but its a dodgy one where oil and air are not separated so oil just gets sucked back into air filter and leaks through air filter...its like prolly at least half a litre of blow by, but when reving the car at neutral there is not any traces of oil so prolly happens on high boost (16psi through high mounted t-57 ITS turbo)...is the engine on the way out? car still seems to go same as before, is it time for rebuilt? regards

r33 gts-t, t-57 stage6 ITS turbo high mounted, sard injectors, tomei fuel pump, intercooler etc. nine pack clutch etc. these are the figures i took from my dyno sheet as i couldnt scan it, does it seem laggy? car is only standard internals so timing is retarded and you can see the difference in power it made when timing was increased from 13 to 15... at drags i did only 13.8@175km/h with 347atw and 14.2 with 372atw due to no traction and i think clutch is not handling the power (9 pack extreeme clutch 2500lbs pressure plate) as at drags after a run or a little burnout it just doesnt wanna go in 3rd and 4th gear so ill prolly need twin plate especially after rebuild and more power...which twin plates are drivable and reasonably priced? 15-16 psi boost 347hpatw 13 timing 2770rpm 78rwhp (58rwkw) 2950 88 (66) 3400 125 (93) 3850 187 (140) 4300 215 (160) 4750 260 (194) 5200 292 (218) 5650 312 (233) 6100 333 (248) 6380peak 340 (254) 6550 347max (259) 7000 342(255) 15-16 psi boost 372.5hpatw 15 timing 2770rpm 79rwhp (59rwkw) 2950 87 (65) 3400 126 (94) 3850 197 (147) 4300 250 (187) 4750 290 (216) 5200 313 (233) 5650 338 (252) 6100 359 (268) 6380peak 372.5max (278) 6550 368 (275) 7000 363 (271)

i dont understand hand controller functions too much but injector duty is same as it was before...i checked all the hoses and found out that one vacuum line from inlet manifold to some thing in left corner driver side where u put brake fluid is ripped, do you know what is that thing? the vacuum hose is prolly 1mm thick

wolf3d-no afm

I just pushed my skyline home for almost 2km, car just died, when u press accelerator pedal it just chokes and turns off...you can start the engine, idles fine then i press accelerator it dies down...what could be the problem, its r33 with wolf3d, bigger turbo intercooler, bigger injectors fuel pump...i think its fuel related? any thoughts? any replies welcome? thanks

i paid 350 just month ago and comes with all the fittings to mount it externally

for sale Bosch 044 fuel pump, was on my car for a month, went for quiter tomei fuel pump, was fitted externally and comes with all connections to fit it externally... Asking $250 Im in Perth

so it is fuel pressure regulator, do u know if its same specs as stock one and does changing fuel pump require retune?

Hey ppl I just purchased tomei fuel pump to replace bosch 044 which was fitted externally and was too loud for my liking, now tomei is direct replacement and its coming with some thing that looks like fuel pressure regulator, can someone confirm this and if its fpr is it same as stock and with new pump will i need a retune? thanks