Maddog309

Z32afm, not sure if thats the stock or what

Oh and thanks for the help so far

Is there a way of checking these things or? sorry guys, Im pretty paranoid about keeping my car healthy, going to uni atm and dont have the dollars for a new rebuild But I love my skyline too much to sell it. Would checking the oil for milky deposits be a good indication whether water has gotten that far? I know that im probably just being paranoid.

Yeah true. One of my friends had the same problem, but he unfortunately went through a puddle, and the whole pod was submerged in water and sucked a shitload in. Blew his engine two weeks later. So the main thing im asking is, as long as the pods not fully submerged, a little bit of water isn't going to effect the engine? I plan on fixing this asap just for peace of mind lol. The rain wasn't real hard, but it was causing the car to stall out a couple, sitting on the side of the road starting my car a couple times wasn't fun haha.

Hey guys, pod on my car is currently sitting near wheel arch... I know... I know... I bought it like that and have a pipe being made up to be able to sit it up top again. But anyway, I was driving home from work tonight, and it began to rain, I didn't go through puddles or anything remotely close to it, but the water from the rain was causing the car to drive pretty, then it also stalled out a couple of times. Could this effect my engine in anyway? as I said, the pod was at no point fully submerged in water or even close to it. But if it was sucking in the rain water, can that cause any damage to my engine. I don't drive at all when its raining, its just tonight it decided to start raining while I was driving home from work -_- really hope I haven't caused any damage.

Running Power FC atm

Hey guys, my s2 r33 is running completely fine after its recent rebuild, just one problem. I've been noticing, when the car is warmed up, if I stop at the lights of pull up in the driveway, the revs will fluctuate, doesn't sound real nice. Could this be anything to worry about, or could it be something small? such as a dirty air idle control valve? any input would be fantastic. Tried looking up previous threads before asking this, and couldn't find any relevant info. Thanks again.

Yeah I know I cant change it haha. But since that's happened should I run a compression test or something just to make sure the internals etc are all good? or is that not needed. Car runs fine, idle is good. get a bit of backfire every now and then but I think that's just because I need a tune.

Hahaha oh man.. that is crazy! Yeah car seems to be idling all good, runs well on 10psi now. Im just paranoid from when it was in the mechanic last, just really hope it didn't do any damage internal wise. Was only a couple and was hardly boosted, but when it was it was hitting very high psi until I noticed

Found the problem... inspected and hose from boost controller to wastegate was split, got a new one and fixed it up and she runs sweet now! The only problem is, my stupid self didnt think to look for 2 days now, the car was boosted a couple times before I realised that it feels like wayyyy too much for 15 psi. Could those couple of likely of caused an internal damage? the car seams to be running smooth as, just a little paranoid.. have further turned it down to 10 psi and keeping it low until I get the power tune done after a couple thousand k's

Hey guys, got my car back from the mechanic yesterday, after a full engine rebuild. I've since noticed that it has been boost spiking like a whore and im not liking it at all. It is set to 12 psi on the boost controller, just to run the engine in, didn't want to set it to its usual psi level. I am seeing spikes over 20 psi. Is my boost controller f**ked or maybe my external waste gate?

Thanks for the responses. It's just for street use really, no track days etc planned for this car. Running on 98. Many have said that my turbo is too much for only running 300kw, I tend to agree as it takes until 4/4500rpm to hit full boost. What would be a suitable turbo for my current setup, something like a 3076? And what rear housing.

Went and talked to my mechanic today, who's a good friend of the family. The damage done to the block is somewhat repairable but he has also given me the advice many others on here have, and that's to just drop another rb25 in. His already found me an engine for $600 and it's in really good condition, don't ask me how he pulled that one off, because I thought they go for around $1200. His advised me that if I'm going to keep the car, to get a set of forged pistons and rods, head gasket. But also as many of you said, if I'm going to sell, drop the engine in, a tune and sell her off.

I have tomei 256 that I can get off a friend and just want to know if it's worthwhile with my setup. And yeah I didn't buy the car too long ago, got it for quite cheap considering what's in it, so I expected it to go bang down the track. The guy that owned it before me obviously thrashed it, boost was set to 26 psi and running well over 300kw. Well I thought another thread with a different topic made sense. Lol

Hey guys, wanting to add some cams/poncams/pro cams... I dont really know too much of a difference between them all. Basically just looking for some advice on what would best suite my car. r33 gtst S2, Current mod list- Gtx3582r turbo, mild Steele exhaust manifold, all custom alloy piping, HDI intercooler, Greddy intake manifold with 90mm throttle body, Bosch 1000cc injectors, split fire coil packs, turbo smart 45mm hypergate wastegate, turbo smart supersonic bov, m spec alloy radiator, Apexi power FC ecu with z32 Afm and hand controller, full 3 inch turbo back exhaust with dcat, walbro 500kw fuel pump, twin place ceramic clutch. And it's a series 2, 33 gtst.

Yeah what you say makes complete sense. I'm a little undecided whether to keep it or not. So what I'm saying is if I do rebuild it, I will probably end up keeping it for a good couple years. The main question is, what power can I aim for with stock internals that's going to be reliable? With the mods I have I can easily achieve 320+ But is that real smart?

This has probably been asked a million times. Is 300rwkw unreliable for a stock internal rb25. I understand that the tune and maintanance obviously plays a big part. Has anyone else had much success with this power level? And also, what do you suggest a good power level for street?

Hey, yeah the 3582 come with the car. And thanks, that's definitely something to consider. I've got a pair of tomei 256 poncams here to put in her aswell. With the fresh rebuild I was going to run 300+ but just unsure on how reliable that is, even with a good tune and maintenance kept up to date, I've heard many stories of idiots blowing their engines... But I kept in mind these are guys that thrash their cars redlining flat every gear. I only really drive this car on the weekend. The guy that had it before me thrashed it a bit by the looks of things, so just trying to do things right this time. I would love to go forged for that extra security and peace of mind. So nothing's set in concrete here, just need some help on what path is the wisest to go down. Thanks for the info so far.

Thanks for the replies so far. At this stage, still unsure whether I want to keep it or not. Will be finding out how much it is to go down the forged track, but if its ridiculous amounts of money, I dont think its worth it unless im aiming for big power. The question is, provided the engine has a fresh rebuild, would it be able to safely handle 270-280rwkw? Thats as far as I really want to go, power wise. I bought the car for 7 grand, so I dont mind spending a bit of cash to make it reliable, so maybe forged is a good option?

Hey guys, threw a rod on my skyline and am in the process of a rebuild. I'm going for stock internals at this stage due to the fact I'll probably sell it for a gtr upgrade in 6 months or so when I have the money. The question I've come here to ask is, what is a safe amount of power to run through stock internals with my following mods, I really don't want to push it to it's limits, although would love to be able to make some decent power without worrying about something going bang again. If someone can help me out a bit, it would be much appreciated! Specs are as follows - Gtx3582r turbo, mild Steele exhaust manifold, all custom alloy piping, HDI intercooler, Greddy intake manifold with 90mm throttle body, Bosch 1000cc injectors, split fire coil packs, turbo smart 45mm hypergate wastegate, turbo smart supersonic bov, m spec alloy radiator, Apexi power FC ecu with z32 Afm and hand controller, full 3 inch turbo back exhaust with dcat, walbro 500kw fuel pump, twin place ceramic clutch. And it's a series 2, 33 gtst.

Hey guys, threw a rod on my skyline and am in the process of a rebuild. I'm going for stock internals at this stage due to the fact I'll probably sell it for a gtr upgrade in 6 months or so when I have the money. The question I've come here to ask is, what is a safe amount of power to run through stock internals with my following mods, I really don't want to push it to it's limits, although would love to be able to make some decent power without worrying about something going bang again. If someone can help me out a bit, it would be much appreciated! Specs are as follows - Gtx3582r turbo, mild Steele exhaust manifold, all custom alloy piping, HDI intercooler, Greddy intake manifold with 90mm throttle body, Bosch 1000cc injectors, split fire coil packs, turbo smart 45mm hypergate wastegate, turbo smart supersonic bov, m spec alloy radiator, Apexi power FC ecu with z32 Afm and hand controller, full 3 inch turbo back exhaust with dcat, walbro 500kw fuel pump, twin place ceramic clutch. And it's a series 2, 33 gtst.