breaker1845

bump

Water pump is not n1 to separate any confusion. Any reasonable offers considered on this stuff as it's just taking space in the garage.

Bump

Bump. Open to offers on the items listed. I also have a factory R33 gtr long nose crankshaft for sale. Came out of a working motor so its in good condition. Will post up some photos in the next few days.

Just making an edit. Item 11 is a HKS Exhaust Manifold GASKET for twin turbos (two piece 3 hole gasket) not just the manifold. Apologies for any confusion. Price is still $50

More Parts added to the list. FC-Datalogit has sold. 2. Power FC L Jetro (RB26 model), ECU only - $400 3. TurboSmart E-boost street with solenoid - $300 4. Oil catch can - $100 5. Front pipe - $150 6. OEM Coilpacks (2 sets) - $100 each, all working and in good condition, removed due to upgrades 7. OEM Fuel rail, regulator and injectors (x2) - $250 each, all working and in good condition, removed due to upgrades 8. R33 gtr OEM turbos (x2) - some shaft play and removed in good condition, kms unknown - $100 a set 9. RB26 OEM Oil Pump - removed due to putting in a tomei - $50 10. RB26 OEM Water Pump - not that old but removed and put a new one in when doing rebuild - $50 11. HKS Exhaust Manifold for twin turbos (brand new was a spare) - $50 12. R33 OEM Cam gears - $50 13. R33 OEM Cam shafts - $50 14. OEM Nissan Head gasket (brand new) - $150

Selling a bunch of r33 gtr parts that come off the car due to upgrades or spares that are no longer needed. Prices do NOT include postage, that can be arranged at your expense if required. Local pickup is Townsville, North Queensland. I can get photos if the ones provided are not sufficient enough. This will be updated as I gather the remaining photos/parts to advertise. Will do my best to get back to you as soon as possible with a response. 1. FC-Datalogit for Power FC ECU - $300 firm; These are AUD $400+ brand new, has been used twice when I had a power fc to tune and log some issues. Comes with everything from when purchased new. 2. Power FC L Jetro + Handcontroller + Boost solenoid - $600 firm; Has a mild tune on it currently, was recently removed to upgrade to a Link G4. Not sure on it's flexibility if to be used with other cars (other than r33 gtr), model number in the photo below.

So if you have an existing policy with an agreed value has anyone been able to keep theirs/renew since these recent events? Or even been able to up the agreed value (due to more mods) and remain with NRMA VVC? Interested to know as I have a policy which will come up for renewal next year but in the mean time I wanted to increase my agreed value. Keen to hear thoughts or feedback from people who have renewed or increased agreed value so far since the ban on insuring Skylines.

With the above comments. What's the reason behind pulling it out? Is the oil pump actually stuffed or you considering doing the oil pump mod with the short nose crank in the r32 block? You can get away with it fairly cheap if you are only intending to run the stock turbos. However you could get a 2nd set of steel internals probably cheap for reliability. The stock ones are pretty garabage and become a hazard anyway running on 13 psi so I would consider checking those at least for shaft play if they come off.

Starts off with doing some clean up in the engine bay to stripping it down and fitting a big turbo haha.

Some nice porn for a Friday night.

pm sent

Sent a pm mate. Edit: Tried to send pm but it failed. Interested in r32 ecu if still available and how much for it? Cheers.

Twenty bucks says its a weak earth to your fuel pump. Fix that problem and it'll crank everytime if your battery/starter is good.

I bought all the parts I needed from "Amayama". You can search by entering a part number and it will come up with stock availability and prices.

You can get parts and exploded diagrams using the Nissan Fast software. If you are going to strip apart the gearbox to replace the 3rd-4th sychro you may as well refresh the whole box and do all the bearings, synchros, etc while you are there. Did it on a r33 gtr gearbox and synchros, bearings, etc were like $600 from Japan a few years ago. Just have all the correct parts and a diagram of how it all goes back together. Take photos if in doubt, lots of small parts which need to go in the correct order for it to all work properly again.

There will be some market value figure that NRMA will have listed for the 32 gtr's. With their current price $25k is easily achieveable if not more. Depending on what they offer you, you can ask them to raise the value, usually at a small cost but you have to 'prove' why you believe the car is worth more. Obviously not factory and modified constitutes as being worth more in value, not just maintenance costs, etc.

Fill the gearbox and transfer case properly and you won't have the issue.

How do the VQ35 coil's compare to others such as Yaris coils? Got spec sheets on them available?

Seems like the oil feed for the rear turbo as I've had an oil leak from that location with the same markings on the front pipe before. Have you got braided lines or running a factory setup? If you get a torch and poke around you could locate where it is coming from and might be good to degrease the exhaust first to trace it back when it starts leaking.

Extra $24 a year for $6k value increase is winning in my books! Plus the cover of your listed modifications that they are now aware of. Once I get around to install the modifications with my 33 gtr I'll probably give NRMA a call and mention the mods that have been completed to keep it on record and hopefully the value might go up a smidgeon also.

Use a 10mm deep impact socket to get on the nuts or a spanner and it will work. Remove black cable (negative) first and leave it hanging somewhere out of the way before removing the red cable off the positive terminal. It should be clear but don't earth yourself or an object between the two accidentally either or you'll get a nice surprise. Once that is complete it's just a matter of pulling the battery out.

Most likely tuned related, plus it looks like one of your O2 sensors are cactus and your AFM values differ quite a bit between the two. They will be contributing to the problem also.

Better to put more fuel in and take it out later to be safe than lean out and destroy a motor. What sort of ecu do you have? Knock ears and equipment isn't cheap just as a FYI. Also what sort of wideband are you running? Plenty of variables to consider, if you are really keen I'd suggest getting stuck into tuning forums and doing plenty of research to further your knowledge on tuning. Tuning a full throttle run is quite easy to do and takes minimal effort but getting a perfect map for different load points will take time and patience. As a side note, 200ml (if that is correct) is a massive amount of oil to have collected in the catch can even if you are bashing limiter for 3 hours (not sure why you need to be revving to the limiter constantly either).

It wouldn't be stock then would it lol. Hope you have deep pockets my friend with the cost of a 3.4L and R32 gtr's at the moment. On topic, road tuning is not easy and is a time consuming process to fine tune maps. I hope you have the right equipment at your availability so you don't do damage.