breaker1845

Sydney has quite a few reputable workshops that can help you out with work for your GTR if you don't want to do it yourself. I do work on my own GTR as well as a shop I take it too in my town and personally some days its a f**king pain in the ass and you wish you just payed someone else to do it sometimes. A low jack is essential for working on GTRs, personally wouldn't use ramps though. Your best off grabbing a battery that can hold its charge over long periods of time, i.e. deep cycle batteries, just need to get one that can fit in the tray. Another alternative or in addition to buying a battery that will hold its charge its to get a charger and put the battery on charge before you intend to run it. I am guessing that your battery is supplying power to all your audio electronics, dash components, etc and alarm but the clock is being neglected until you have a full charge on your battery from running your high current alternator for a period of time (driving). Hence why I was curious if it was on a separate wiring loom, merged, etc, as it seems to be taking the power from the battery last in your case. Electricity will take the path of least resistance so it is likely that the clock loom or wiring happens to be after all the other electronics. If I get a chance I'll try dig up the wiring diagram and see how it is all connected and work out what it could be. To replace water and heater hoses you will need to remove the intake manifold which sucks on its own, requires patience, small socket sets and bleeding fingers. Front arms could be quite annoying but not as bad as the heater hoses in my opinion. If you do decide to do it on your own, take your time and do it correctly and replace components that need it while there as you don't want to pull it apart again.

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Well for starters if you actually use silicone on exhaust components you need high temp stuff, which is the red stuff and I believe there is now permatex copper. I use a product called Maniseal by CRC which is great for exhaust components and sensor safe. It's like a paste and you need to apply it on the gasket and then bolt what you want up quickly before it dries. Once the stuff gets hot then it creates a really good seal. Paper gaskets you can use a spray for like oil drain gaskets if you want, works well just ensure it can handle some high temperatures. As Dobz said also, if the surface is smooth etc you don't actually need any extra sealant providing you tighten the part correctly. For example the compressor outlet/inlet on the turbocharger shouldn't actually need any sealant just a gasket but needs to be correctly tightened to ensure no leaks occur.

NPC have good customer service so if you call them up they can help you out if you explain what you want exactly. I agree the Nismo would probably be over the top but depends how deep your pockets are.

So did you actually get it aligned at all? If you did can you get the alignment print out which tells you the adjustments made to toe and camber on each wheel? If not grab a copy when you get another alignment.

Look at your driveshafts and joints. Get the car up on stands or a hoist and you can check if they are buggered or not.

Have you tried disconnecting some of your other unnecessary electronics like your audio and seeing the effect? Does the internal clock have completely separate wiring to the rest of the auxiliary items like climate control and such? I can't remember without checking a diagram or pulling my own out.

The problem there is any amount of knock is dangerous and very small values are extremely hard to hear at all, hence people using knock monitors that regularly road tune. If you add timing, be careful that any changes are reflected in the rest of the map/s so you don't create more issues. On a side note, road tuning is the best way to get optimal fuel efficiency for cruise speeds and idle unless you spend significant time on the dyno. If you are good with computers, what you could do is take multiple logs over a period of time/drives and do some mathematics with it through simulations to get some expected averages or something with afrs and you can see where you have high and low points on your map. Timing is much harder to do properly without a dyno (or the right equipment) so having safe values is more ideal.

Make it easy for yourself to put together. No point making it harder than it already is so do what will work best. Anti-seize is definitely a good idea. I sure as hell wouldn't want to put dumps and turbos together then have a leak because the bolt/stud and nut isn't put on/tightened properly. Take your time to do it right and you won't have to pull it out to do it again. I just had to replace a dump gasket on my rear turbo on my GTR because the last person didn't have the correct nuts or tightened properly so it was running 3/5 nuts and leaking like a mofo. If it helps, getting some small sized ring spanners or adjustable may aid you if you can't get a socket in there, but a socket will always be better as you won't potentially be slowly tripping the nut you are trying to do up tight.

Like I said before look into NPC clutches and the Nismo copper mix twin plate. Both are great and will last forever basically on 300kw with track days, providing you bed the clutch in properly. If you search the forum you will see many people use these clutches and there are only positive reviews on their performance, feel and noise compared to many other clutches including stock.

Sounds pretty abnormal to me. Have you got an alignment done correctly and have you physically checked your suspension and arm setups or did you just look at them from a distance? It will affect handing but I don't know how much.

There is a good chance you'll probably clutch dump your gtr in the future and pour more money into the gtr for 300+kws so better to do the job properly the first time.

You said you bought it cheap, which is usually a big mistake to begin with. Probably a mess and you will find heaps of things wrong about the car as you explore more. Anyway you'll need new tyres, something suitable for the rim size and suspension setup it is running. Best thing is to get it aligned/balanced by a shop so you get an accurate result. And buying a GTR, did you think it would just be an initial payment and you'd have a nice car like anyone else. Be prepared to empty your wallet or bank account when required if you want the car running right, especially since you bought it cheap, lol.

Nismo copper mix Twin plate, standard or competition spec. Buy one and you won't regret it. NPC clutches are also good. An Exedy Sports Tuff Clutch sounds shit and would get destroyed as soon as you start adding some power to your car. Pay the money now for the right clutch as suggested or you'll be doing it more than once and that can be a costly procedure if you can't do them yourself.

If you have fixed the short circuit issue with the chassis then a tacho acting erratically is usually common in skylines. If you have everything wired up and plugged in correctly I would say that could be your other issue.

Exhaust Manifold Studs are for exhaust manifolds.... Turbo Compressor Studs might be what you want. Exhaust manifold studs are quite long in size in comparison to dump pipe and turbo manifold inlet studs. I don't know why you'd ever use a bolt as its not friendly as it is to get apart for some dump pipes. Look up wurth dump pipe studs/nuts to get an idea of what they should look like.

I don't think those turbos will do the job for 450kw, probably just under. You're better off getting a bigger set of twins if you want or go with a single turbo. Are you wanting to peak at 450kw and be at max efficiency on the turbo or do you want something that can pull 500kw plus and have more breathing room? As there are a few low and high mount twin setups that can do that. Plenty of singles that can do that too, just need to do some research and find your optimal choice.

GTSBoy is right. There are plenty of random factors involved in breaking a gearbox but the 400awkw is about the mark where it gets expensive for transmissions and diffs. The stock 6 speed R34 gearbox is a getrag and can take a beating much better than the 5 speed r33/r32 boxes can. The r33 gearboxes (I think series 3) are supposed to be stronger as opposed to r32 boxes. If you got plenty of cash buy an OS88 or something that you won't have issues with unless you constantly want to change gearboxes if you break them. Having said that if you aren't tracking it 24/7 and only doing the occasional track run, being gentle with the gear changes (especially 3rd and 4th will help a lot). If it was me I'd get like a quaife or nismo diff for the front, upgraded/refreshed transfer case and probably run the stock r33 series gearbox and then if something breaks, upgrade or run the stronger internals depending on my intentions.

All the best mate and hopefully it all goes well and you get the results you wanted with the final tune. Sounds like you have been waiting quite a while to get the car back and keen to take it for a nice drive. The 3.2L should bring quite a bit of a kick on the low end with the amount of torque it will have and the PT 6262 should flow quite well and bring up the response of the car quite significantly.

Exactly, I hate using silicone sealant with gaskets so I use some different products that are much better and safe for oxygen sensors. There is silicone products that is heat resistant up to almost 300 degrees which is plenty but in my opinion there are better sealants out there with much less mess.

Sounds good and perfect for 300kw, nice figure and I am aiming for around 330kw at 20/21psi with my setup once complete. I am also using hks gt-ss's which are -9 equivalent. But yeah make sure the fuel system and ignition is sorted correctly and you should get good results with the setup you have. Stock camshafts will still be good but if you put in adjustable cam gears you might of done some camshafts at the same time to give you that increase. With regards to plugs, there are two types you might need to try to find what works best for you. Consult your engine builder/tuner to see what he might suggest but it is a matter of trial and error really. But if you have new ignition components then you probably won't see any issues.

Gasket maker shouldn't be a replacement for an actual gasket in my opinion. Use a sealant and a proper gasket to do the job, they aren't expensive.

No problem mate. Just looking out for you and your awesome build =). Wouldn't want to see anything like that potentially happen to my own gtr.

Return it and get an NPC or Nismo, lol. Or you'll be replacing it soon enough again anyway.

Doesn't have to be a crazy gauge on the wiring, but you want it to do the job. The workshop building the motor should be capable of doing it easily. Just need the wiring sorted with a relay before the pump and a good earth to the chassis.