breaker1845

You can, but honestly after doing a fresh rebuild, especially a 3.2L stoker, getting it done correctly the first time and setup with the surge tank will aid in getting the optimal final tune for your ride. I'd personally wait the extra to have it all done and ready to drive away. If you are running flex fuel sensor then your ecu can handle e85 being put in the car at any time as it modifies the maps based on ethanol/octane content.

Just buy NGK copper plugs from your local auto store/s. Depending on boost levels you may want to run 6 or 7 for your heat range. Usually the plugs come 1.1mm gap, simply gap them down to 0.8mm and put them in. May as well check your coil packs and ignition leads at the same time to prevent issues during tuning or down the track. I can tell you right now that you should definitely be pulling more power closer to 300kw if you are using factory injectors/pump (at their limits). Running the 9's at low boost you'll get increased lag, assuming you are chasing response you might want to consider your fuel system options to prevent that. Obviously factory clutch might become an issue possibly unless you put a better one in with the motor out and other issues arise. Final question, what made you rebuild your rb26 with standard components and not aim for stronger internals or head work?

You probably don't want to hear it but you need to get your engine out of the car and stripped down to find out what the problem is/was that caused the issue. I could theorize what your issue is but there is no point as you'd need to get your motor looked at and in good health before you bother to run it again. Also I suggest never turning your car off while you are actually driving, that is pretty stupid. Could of been your panic reaction though...

The problem is obviously on his end not with the forums. Your friend needs to get some advice on how to fix the issue and follow GTSBoy's advice on the script blocker as it could be the issue. Add-on's and all the other crap that could be causing the problem also with his browser/s.

Just buy the correct ecu for your car, not that hard and saves more effort and time than cost.

The 460 Can handle your power requirements quite well. Ensure you have good wiring going to the fuel pump lid as I have seem some 460's burn through the stock wires due to the high current output on the 460 . I hope you have considered a surge tank and feed pump/s on top of the lift pump as well, if not it might be better to get this all sorted before you go for the final tune of the build. Personally if I just did a new engine rebuild I would do new fuel lines and everything while there before final tune. Good choice on removing the Sard 700cc's for the ID 1300cc's. They should hold 400awkw on E85 (if that is what you are using) but I thought the duty cycle would be fairly high though. 98 would have no issues with either.

Save yourself the pain of getting stuff machined and rebuilt and your time by going with the hyper gear option already done for you for a small fortune. The hyper gear option will be a bolt on option most likely and would require no more than a turbo swap if you have everything else sorted to support it. You will only have regrets later on if you don't. If cost is your issue (as you mentioned) then maybe you should save more before doing it and extend your budget. I'm sure you might of heard the saying before, "the poor man pays twice."

Condition of gearbox and what model r33 did it come out of?

My opinion is that you will have issues with it later on down the track and the odometer will eventually break. So if you want to do something about it, send the cluster off and get it repaired for a small price and have the gears working properly again. As Duncan said, odometers that get wound back incorrectly (or at all) end up starting off by having the same symptoms you have then they break. This is speaking from experience also.

If you have tested the circuit on the board and it works with the test lamp then I suspect the problem is between the oil pressure sensor plug on the block and the wiring between it. As Scotty said the pressure sensor plug hangs off the block and it is fairly big compared to the other sensor there. Check that is connected properly and trace it back towards the dash. The coolant temp and oil pressure plugs are different sizes/shapes from memory so don't think they can be mixed up.

How long has the problem been happening? Maybe you have issues with your CAS. Also stalling on idle can be a result of IAC and BOV not being plumbed back, etc.

-7 and stock turbo outlet sizes should be identical in dimensions. Just get a new adapter plate.

If there is the option to just have a side exit exhaust it would be better for the car and obviously it sounds pretty loud. Varex is a brand of exhaust/muffler, not something you'd really be after for your gtr. If you wanted to go the full way and exit out the back then custom making would be the next best option.

Road tuning will take a long time to perfect cruise and idle so you get good fuel efficiency or whatever you are chasing. You are going to have to alter some values slightly and test your car on the road then come back and change more values, etc, its a repeated process. I hope you have some sort of wide band logging that way you can see where you are getting problem AFR's. What GTSBoy has said is extremely important though so make sure you take in his advice or you could be doing quite a bit of harm to your engine without knowing it.

Pull out your cluster and check the back of the board that all the grounds and wires are contacting properly.

10/97 Would definitely be a S3 GTR. There are a few differences between series two and three. The obvious one is the interior is red instead of blue but it could have been re-stitched. A check you can do is with the rear of the car. The outer tailight of the set should only light up unless modified. And you will only have one reverse light on the left as the right side has a fog lamp, which is an orange kind of lense.

1/96 - 2/97 Is the build date for S2 GTR's. 2/97-5/98 is the build date for S3 GTR's. There is differences between them if you don't know them. All R33 GTR's came factory with Brembos. Only the R32 GTR came with standard Nissan brakes except if you have a R32 Vspec that is when they brought in Brembos. To me it seems like the previous owner sold the brembos off as they can sell for a fair amount as an upgrade to other vehicles. But I am unsure why they would put just standard Nissan ones on as they are a downgrade. Probably to sell the car off and make money, not entirely sure on the reason behind the previous owner's actions though. If your spending a bit of coin on upgrades (that is why we buy these cars) then I would suggest looking at getting some Brembos to begin with or if you have deep pockets you can buy some better kits starting from a few thousand.

While we are on the topic of exhausts. I've got hks gt-ss (-9's) turbos going in atm with hks dumps. Saw a bargain the other week for a full 4" decat exhaust with tuned length front pipes. I am considering buying it as I have a 3" bolt on jap system with high flow cat and front pipes but the cat-back has 2.5" restrictions inside I believe. Obviously it will be noisy but I am afraid it will be a bit crazy on the noise scale. Only looking to push like 330kw later on when I do the other supporting modifications. I can't decide so looking for some input. Is it worth getting the 4" now (or at all), or safer to stay with the 3" and upgrade to a 3.5" later when I will be pushing to 330? The car is a daily so legalities are another issue.

Would love to but I live up in North Queensland so would have to organize postage. I will have a think about it and get back to you via this thread or pm if it hasn't sold before then.

Interested in the exhaust. Just curious with your opinion as to how loud it is (watched video) in person as I would be putting the exhaust onto a daily driven car. Weighing up the risks of running decat plus loud exhaust or not

Hi Guys, I have been having some issues with my drive train in the r33 gtr. Not entirely sure how to fix the issue, hence the thread creation. I've tried searching what I can but can't seem to find a problem similar to mine. This issue specifically happens only in reverse. I have no issues selecting gears or changing gears, the gearbox runs perfect except when I am trying to reverse (gear already selected) it feels as if the car has no power and struggles to move backwards. After reversing I re-engage my clutch to select a gear and I can hear a massive 'clunk' type noise which is quite loud and could be heard from outside the car a few meters. The noise definitely sounds like it is coming from the gearbox and transfer case region but my ears could be lying to me as the noise is quite loud. I haven't ever heard the noise between gears but it may have happened while in neutral and selecting first. The link between the two would be that the car is stationary. Could there be an internal problem within the gearbox causing the lack of power delivery? It wouldn't be the selector fork as I would have issues selecting gears. I have thought of the drive shafts being an issue or the differentials and I plan on checking the joints when I have the car on jack stands in a few days. Final thought is that the transfer case could be a problem, hoping it is. Looking to see if anyone has any ideas of what the problem might be or similar issues as I don't want to particularly pull the entire drive train out for fun. Cheers.

This has to be one of the best things related to tuning about GTR's I have seen posted on these forums, lol.

I daily a GTR and I don't drive very far every day (20km maximum) or over the weekend so I don't add up as many kms as some people do. Fuel economy is crap as expected but I can still enjoy the car while I drive it as I'm only having to fill up roughly every fortnight. Police issues are another thing which really depends on how you drive the car and obviously distances you drive increasing your chances of being pulled over. Having said that I plan to turn the car into a weekender, buying a second car and doing modifications and restoring the condition (after DD the car you get some scratches) once I graduate. Obviously financial situation is extremely important as others have mentioned, need to have the dollars to be able to run two cars and not sacrifice other important choices. Don't regret buying the car and waiting till later, have enjoyed the car lots so far and plan to own it for a long time. Shifting to a normal car occasionally feels weird but sometimes its a nice feeling to just enjoy noise free and relaxing drives.

Did it over a weekend. Lots of swear words and painful in the end. If you are removing that side for whatever reason make sure you inspect all the hoses like everyone has mentioned as you don't want to have to remove the plenum again due to cracked hoses, lol. You don't really need a tutorial to do it, you can locate all the bolts required to take the plenum off, but if its your first time will definitely take a bit as there are a few 'hidden' bolts that can be a pain to get at.

Got ashtray still at all? Sent pm