breaker1845

See these threads all the time. Most are usually tune related. But more information is needed to work your problem out. How long has it been happening? Have you done anything recently that has triggered it idle shit?

Tip for next time, turn the car off when you are changing them over. You created a short circuit and took out the fuse only luckily.

Just a few suggestions/comments regarding the 2JZ venture. Let me know if you need any more information. 1. You would be better off buying a late model NON VVTi model. VVTi complicates modifications and tuning a bit more so I wouldn't suggest buying one unless you absolutely find one that you are keen on. 2. Most people put on trash body kits and such (F&F style) and it's becoming hard to find a stock looking supra which will be under $30k that has single turbo modifications. You may find one which is stock (including visuals) for around 25-30k. 3. Easy to modify and you can just slap on a big turbo, injectors, ecu, e85, exhaust, etc and keep it simple. You don't really need cams or anything fancy and the block is pretty much bullet proof so you won't need a built motor when you are only chasing 400kw. 4. Your budget is okay but might need to be extended a bit depending on the condition supra you want and your time frame taken into account. People are starting to hold onto them more and the ones for sale are either lemons, look molested or want something ridiculous for their condition. Best of luck with your search! Especially with your timeline of 3-4 months. Hope you can find something nice and clean with tasteful modifications.

There should be paperwork which shows the mileage of your car being received and dropped off by Ceva. Plus photos from your side at the depot as added support. Respectively the car should only be travelling a short distance to be stored in the depot before being transported by truck. Obviously someone has misused the car which is not acceptable. If Ceva don't respond to your complaint I would be taking it further to an Ombudsman or exposure elsewhere of their wrong doings so more people aware. Sorry to hear it has happened to you. I've used Ceva before and didn't have a negative experience. Keep us updated with how you go if you decide to proceed further with your complaint.

Easy way to explain it is dry solder/contacts in the PCB of the cluster, specifically the speedo. The soldering of the clusters is usually of poor quality and overtime it's easy for it to go 'dry' and the condition degrade, causing intermittent faults on the cluster. If you aren't the best with a soldering iron/electronics you can get a place to do it for you and test it for like $200 or something and restore it to new condition I guess. To sum up, the electrical circuit on the PCB which gives you the reading for your tacho has a bad connection due to dry solder/contact but the needle still works fine resulting in the obscure rpm's you see in the cluster.

You can't see AFR through the hand controller you need a separate wide band to do that. If your AC is causing the car to stall at idle it's too lean. So most likely your cold start is probably alright and it has a shit tune for idle. AC puts a fair bit of load on the engine so takes a bit of fiddling to get it to run properly. Easy to fix if you have the equipment to do so.

I recommend getting the datalogit device and fixing your tune asap as the CEL on full boost isn't a good sign. If the check engine light flashes really fast it's usually the knock threshold being exceeded on the PFC. If it's not obvious already don't drive it on full boost unless you want to potentially cause more damage. 900 kms is a fair distance from a tuner and I only suggest the datalogit as an alternative to getting it tuned properly because of this. There are a few blokes on here that can help you fix your tune to bring it to a safe level if you are unsure with what you are doing. The black cloud is probably the insane amount of fuel being pumped in at full load that isn't required. Also exhaust leaks and other things can contribute to increased richness. Replace fluids, check coilpacks, do the plugs 0.8mm gapped and heat range 7. Lots of oil is not a good sign, means you have ventilation problems with rb26. Keep an eye on the condition and report back as you go through the details. Also run 98 octane not 94.

Nice thread. I definitely am enjoying the progress of your resto and the attention to detail you put into your work. I think a new box of tissues is needed now though.

Wait someone is going to swap out a Nismo clutch for an Extreme?.....

Coming together nicely mate. Those braided lines are definitely a pain to make sure no exhaust components or intake pipes get in the way. I did it with engine in and took ages to get the right lengths. Definitely jealous of that shed/workshop setup you have.

There is a plug for your ECCS circuit near your coolant air bleed valve on the head towards the front of the car clipped near the fuel rail. That plug connects your knock sensors and other sensors connected on that harness to the main engine harness and fuse box area. Check this plug is connected properly as I know of a car that had very similar symptoms when this plug came loose.

Or you could spend the extra and buy new ones so you definitely know what you are getting. There is always a build plate on the core so request that and if they don't supply it then they are trying to hide something.

From what I understand they are the same internally, which means the gearsets are the same, but obviously they have different bell housings to accommodate different vehicles. After they made small revisions to the 33 box in the series 3 they kept it for the awd Stagea until they came out with the 6 speed for the 34. Someone else might be able to confirm this.

I'm about to use CEVA to transport my 33 gtr to Brisbane through work. Car is being collected next week and due to arrive in Brisbane early February so I can report back on my experience after everything is sorted. Price isn't an issue as I am not paying for it but I'll be using the RAPS service they have available which is for race/prestige vehicles.

All car dealers are actually useless with repairs and will avoid responsibility for anything. Probably $100+ just to probe the alternator with a multimeter to get a reading. I'm more inclined to think it is a vacuum leak.

I'd like an extra half inch.

Too many people care about numbers, just get rid of the shit Coilpacks, buy OEM or Splitfires as mentioned by everyone and enjoy the car. Get someone to gap your plugs down or do it yourself. You can buy a tool from super cheap auto. If there was no evident misfire issue on the dyno while Trent was tuning, then there will hardly be any power difference after the touch up. There are hundreds of other reasons why it could be down on power but not up for discussion now.

Penrite Racing 10, 10w40, just changed mine at roughly 7000km while car is off the road and has been going well in the 33 gtr, no problems experienced. Other people use HPR 10w50 with the added zinc and rate it well also for an engine that has done a fair amount of km's. Refreshed a gearbox from a 33 gtr recently also. Cost of new bearings, synchros is fairly cheap from Japan, just take a few weeks to get all the parts. Longer if have to order more parts during the refresh. If you pay someone to do it and provide all the parts it's not that much in labour. Compared to having a crunching gearbox that is crap to drive I know what I'd take. Once refreshed of course the gearbox feels brand new basically, worth the money. If you are not hard on boxes, the refresh will likely last for a long time. Never used Redline oils in the gearbox and probably never will.

Exhaust sits much nicer now. Wondering where you purchased your Magnaflow muffler from and how long it took to arrive. The inside of my rear muffler is broken and looking to replace with a decent quality one once my car is back on the road.

Yeah you can just unscrew the canister and replace with a new one from memory, reading the FSM instructions. They are like $250-300 for a new one, not too bad.

Oil just hit 5001km, better drop my oil on the side of the road and change it before something happens.

Pics of said flap.

That front pipe only cost you $800? What. Has anyone purchased a full system from RPM recently. A 3" into 4" front and 3.5" catback or similar, not a twin system though. Looking at getting one but don't like how everyone has had to modify their front pipe for the 33 to fit, slightly off putting. Feel free to PM me if you don't want to post a price in the comments.

The PowerFC needs to be setup properly for the AFMs and Injectors too as Grant said otherwise funny shit can happen. Get the tuner to have a fiddle with the controller once fuel/timing is sorted to try and hold a constant desired boost level as each controller is a bit different and can take some time to get it working properly. Not sure what you mean exactly after 21.8psi it goes crazy. 22psi for that motor/setup is perfectly fine, a graph or any information on what is happening can help. Torque or power curve dropping off? Boost dropping off?

So what's the exact problem? Boost spiking can be from your waste gate.