breaker1845

Post your VIN and I can check in FAST for you exactly. But just based on the numbers I can tell you right now it will be an early-mid R32 engine. Edit: If the engine was transplanted then the VIN won't match the engine number

$350 each from Perfect Run before postage and stuff. Easier to bolt on the Nismo's as they directly replace OEM, plugs and everything are the same if you want to keep AFM's. An alternative is to get an ECU that uses a MAP sensor and just keep the AFM's on there inside an airbox so it looks factory.

If you got the information from the PowerFC FAQ guide it clearly states it in there. So you wasted your time really.

Easier to ring Trent and ask him. Tuning costs are variable as it is hard to quote a dollar figure over the phone as it may take more or less time when on the actual dyno. Somewhere around the $700 mark would be an estimate, depends on how much time is spent on the tune as i said before.

That Power-FC issue is only for the gtst so no need to worry. Will work fine on the Gtr providing you use the correct ecu, the r33 or rb26 code ecu.

High flowed -7's with the -5 internals would be the winner in terms of power but not response. It's a tricky combination and its rarely done due to costs, so if you bought second hand getting them inspected would be a good check. If you didn't want to go with those, off the shelf -9's or HKS GT-SS would be your next best option. They are very responsive turbos and will deliver the power you want (330 ish), however the -7/-5 combination would only just out perform them in power. My suggestion would be to get the -9's for the 330kw range power and better response. If you wanted to go e85 at some stage, they can push more at higher boost levels. I don't know how well the -7/-5 combination works on pump 98 though, so might want to shoot Andrew Hawkins a pm or something about that. -9's are great turbos, and with stock cams and adjustable gears, you'll be able to achieve the power you want with great response.

Can you give more details? What knock values are you getting? Are you running a base map? Do you get any engine check light flashes? What sort of modifications have you got on the car?

If you read the thread Trent linked you, you should be able to understand knock fairly well. Obviously when you tune on a dyno, you don't want to hear any vibrations, 'pinging', knock or whatever you want to call it. You start off with safe values or a base map and then progressively work until you can't put in more fuel, timing, etc due to knock or limitations from the vehicle. Takes years of experience to get everything perfect in terms of fueling, timing and many other variables to consider depending on ECU capabilities in such a short time frame. P.S. The knock ears are kind of useless for road tuning like GTSBoy said, it's best to have knock detection and all the other EGT sensors and what not running on a dyno. If you are considering doing more work in the future it may be an investment to source a dyno to prevent engine failure.

Nice to see you finally got a car. Now the long journey of getting it to the condition you want it to be at. Good luck!

Like most have mentioned, if you don't have money or the slightest idea of what you are doing you can be getting yourself into more trouble by causing more damage to the car or yourself. Get someone to help you who knows what they are dealing with and teach you at the very least if you are keen. I'd like to see you get the car up and running with your dedication, but with little idea or experience on what to do its inevitable that you might make an irreversible mistake. You'll definitely need cash, so cheaping out on your safety isn't a great idea. Do lots of reading and find someone willing to help you over some beers and work towards getting it back on the road. It's quite easy to go from bad to worse. It's been off the road for 3 years, lots of things to check before you even turn key. It could take you 6 months or more just to do all those things before reaching that stage.

Sell the car. Could cost you lots of money and time to get it running. If you don't have any idea of what you are doing that could be an interesting experience as you might cause more damage. If you want to get it running and working, going to cost money and there would be many things you'd look at doing if the car has been sitting for 3 years.

It's just a standard 34 GTR.

What do you want to know from Fast that you don't already know?

Nothing wrong with Gates timing belts, providing they are genuine. Usually incorrect installation leads to problems for any belt.

Did you set your timing back to the original position it was after removing and replacing the CAS?

Km reading means jack all. You could find one with 50,000km and be a total piece of shit and then you could find one with 120,000km and be extremely well maintained. Any GTR will require money to keep up the maintenance, insurance & registration, modifications etc. Check out the history by paying the $80 or whatever it is. Then get it inspected by a workshop and a report on the condition or go yourself at the inspection time and have a look at the car. From there you can make your decision before you decide to hand over around $60k.

Then sends you the bill for something you could of fixed by paying no more than $30 for. Those style clamps are prone to breaking easily because of their shitty design. If over tightened or adjusted incorrectly, which most people tend to do, the mechanism tends to break.

If you read the recent thread about someone trying to buy another R34 like you, he is in the same situation. You need to consider carefully as you could be putting yourself into a bad position. Need to check the car out and see if the repairs are done correctly and the car is structurally safe. It's common for cars to be repaired and sold, happens all the time, but you don't want to be the victim, so now you know, it definitely wouldn't be worth 60k. Personally I'd stay away from the car because people if you re-sell in the future, people are just going to do the history check like you did for the seller and you'll get offered nothing close to what you want or payed for it.

If you're happy with everything else then why not just resolve the head gasket issue?

Check your ECCS loom is connecting to the main loom properly. Been in a car that had a similar problem and it was because the ECCS loom was not connected to the main loom properly, it came loose somehow. It's the plug which is grey in colour and sits near your coolant bleed plug and fuel rail, quite easy to spot.

That doesn't look good....

It's true, buying a gtr and having no money after is not a good thing. You'll need to maintain it regularly and have funds for unexpected problems that may occur. So owning one and having enough to buy another is a baseline people use. There is a big difference between the two, if you get the chance to take a ride in both you'll understand why. $10k is definitely steep for a gts-t in my opinion and it may be best to find a another one instead of his to save any drama.

You have a leak somewhere. Regardless of ECU, if you don't fix the leak it's going to try and hold idle to compensate for the air leak. Adjusting AAC or swapping anything else won't work, only masking the issue. Find the leak and fix it. I've replaced turbos on my car and starts first time with no idle issues, there is something else you've missed. Have you done anything with the BOV system at all? Forgot to connect something?

If you read the specs you can determine how much you will be running at full load roughly. In general those bigger pumps draw much more current and if you are hard wiring you should use some thicker wire and an in-line fuse for safety measures. I've seen cases with the 460 pump drawing large amounts of current and burning through the stock wiring/fuel tank hat almost causing a fire. Realistically the pump will draw as much current as it needs/wants for the given scenario and if the wire can't handle the current going through it you'll find out about it. Having said that it can be rare for it to happen and if you aren't pushing a fuel pump that hard then you probably won't ever experience that potential scenario. Better to be safe than sorry.

Are you buying this car to drive at all or just sit in the shed? Sounds like you want to get a good condition one and hold onto it and re sell later for a profit. If you enjoy the car in its current state do you really care about its resale value? I plan on keeping my 33 for a long time but don't expect to sell it in the future for large sums of money. Same if I had a 34, enjoy the car for what it is now and look after it, not with the intention of resale value later. In general cars never appreciate in value, 34's have changed a bit but the main reason is due to popularity from media.