breaker1845

That 33 though. How could you not want one of those series 3 beasts with 500kw. I might be biased because I have one myself, haha.

Well everyone who has read this thread will probably be against purchasing the car if you don't purchase it. This is why the checks from Japan are important before buying these cars because you'll find a lot with history that you did not expect. As okooko said, someone might be inclined to buy the car if they are not concerned too much about the repairs. Being realistic if they are done correctly and the vehicle is structurally safe then there shouldn't be an issue. These cars are getting old and hard to find pristine condition now so if you want one you have to wait or bite the bullet and find one that has minimal work done to it I guess. Structural repairs are hard to comment on as you said, need a professional to look at it to determine the quality, cosmetic repairs not much of an issue. Rust can be just as bad as structural repairs depending on severity. Sad to see the outcome for yourself and the owner as he now knows of the history, which isn't a good one. But it definitely reinforces the need to do background checks on any serious purchase as you'd hate to find out this information later on once you've bought the car.

How long ago where they rebuilt? Did you get any warranty with the rebuild? probably not I am guessing. If it was not long ago then you might have an underlying issue with oil supply for your turbos. Full rebuild required and as GTSBoy said, possible it could of happened during the repair too if due car wasn't taken. Definitely frustrating if you are going to do it yourself or costly if you aren't, removed plenty from a few cars and it's never any more fun than the first time.

Seems good from pictures and information you are being supplied is good. People tend to avoid most/some of the questions you have thrown his way. If you can't fault the car when you get up close and inspect well, then the price he is offering is good. What he has valued the car at could be completely different to what another seller believes it is worth. The important thing to take from it is that the history check from Japan will identify any issues before import and you can usually work out if a crash/impact has occurred while here. Personally if I was in the market for a car like this, the price he is asking is good, tasteful mods already and some spare stuff you can use or sell off. Take the plunge and personally look at it yourself and then be ready to make the call when you are there.

They do a preliminary check to make sure they can source enough information before they carry out the check. They do this because some history of cars dating back a certain year is not available and they can't always find everything. So instead of charging you to find nothing they check first before billing you I guess. You just need to be patient. Overall probably took 1 week roughly to get all the documentation I needed from initial request.

Get it to a workshop to professionally inspect, and look yourself if your Dad is happy with it. Need to look at the under body to be satisfied there is no damage or bad rust issues that are being hidden. Do the history check as some dodgy stuff could of happened when importing and usually it is picked up from the transition between Japan and Australia when the km's or stuff doesn't match. 144k km seems reasonable though. Seems legit and like a good deal but you want to be absolutely positive before buying a 60k+ plus car at least and a flight down to inspect can't hurt that much compared to being disappointed by hidden issues you didn't inspect. All the best with it.

Those values are fairly high and past the limit of safe knock. What I think is your CAS could be contributing to the problem with the noise it is producing but the fuel pump being lazy, especially at WOT seems to be the major one. It's unfortunate that they decide to do the full tune rather than contact you to discuss options on fixing the problem before finishing the tune. The upgraded fuel pump will cause your car to run richer than before with the lazy one, shouldn't be a drastic change but it will work in your favour rather than against for pinging. The reality of workshops is most will be the same and like that also, unless you build a relationship with one and get to know them personally they'll band-aid a problem like that because it means more money in their pocket unfortunately not working in the favour of the customer.

Just to clear a few things up. The Power FC knock monitor is horrible and can give really high readings which are false. Interested to know what kind of values you are getting on the hand controller if that is your concern? Do you know what particular load on the map that you get this pinging if you believe it is still there? Unigroup tuned the car, removed the pinging and they suggest a new CAS? I'd have faith Unigroup would of removed the pinging if your concern is the number coming up on the hand controller. Your CAS could definitely be contributing to the problem if the signal is not clean. Best thing you could do is talk to the guys at Unigroup about your issue after the tune if you still believe there is a problem and try not to boost it so much while driving.

What ECU? How do you know it is still pinging? Where knock ears used throughout tuning? There are several other noises that can give false readings and just general engine vibrations which can be picked up on knock monitors. You can hook an oscilloscope up to the CAS to view the signal it is producing, whether it is clean or noisy.

Fuel system to handle E85 including injectors, pump and lines. You'll need a bigger exhaust. I'd go with precision for turbo choice but that is a personal opinion, both the gtx and precision series can get those numbers. Depending on how healthy the motor is, 450kw is a huge jump from 350kw and you can run into quite a few issues so be prepared for that. There is much more involved and you should consult someone also who is going to be doing the work for you (if they are).

Did you buy a copy kit? If you aren't running extreme amounts of boost then good quality hose clamps and silicone is fine to use. You can use T bolt clamps and better quality silicon to aid with holding the pressure but if the kit is put together correctly then there shouldn't be any issues.

Get some better quality oil in the car. Timing belts don't make that noise, its more high pitched. Definitely sounds like something inside the head causing the problem.

Just putting it out there, 100 degrees after 30 minutes driving is not high. That is a very realistic and normal value for that period of driving plus other external conditions. If you start exceeding that drastically say like 120-30 degrees regularly then you start to have problems. But the oil temperature remaining around 100 degrees is fairly normal after long periods of driving. The scaling is also very bad so you could be over estimating its actual value. Secondly your water temperature will not be half way. I am assuming you are using the standard C to H gauge as the indicator which has no number scale on there so you won't be able to know what the actual value is. It would probably be around 80-85 degrees ideally for stock radiator and that is an acceptable value. If you've changed nothing recently like oil cooling or what not as mentioned then the oil temperature sensor could be on its way out.

If you won't be adjusting fuel pressure then you'd be fine with the OEM FPR. Also the stock rail and injector adapters is probably the best solution if that is the case. The HKS rail and adjustable FPR is just going to be bling you won't even need.

Ryco are fine, you need a new mechanic mate. The only thing the greddy filter gives you is a big hit to the wallet that you don't need. I bet if you opened them up internally they would be very similar if not the same type of filter material and design. The comparison has been done between an OEM and Ryco filter and the difference between the two was not much.

Hope you're prepared to drop a bucket of cash on your car to get it running again. If you've done a fair amount of damage and need to replace a few things, it will cost a fair amount, labour involved also.

It's pretty easy/quick to drop the oil and put some fresh stuff in it and change a filter. Even easier with a relocation/oil kit.

If you searched harder you will realize that this has been done by hundreds of r32 gtr owners.

Correct you will need fittings not just rubber/clamp. If you tried rubber/clamp on those threaded fittings it won't work very well. You need to work out what AN size they are, I think High Octane racing mention the sizes on the product description. As a side note, I know you can purchase a High Octane catch can without the threaded fittings, designed for rubber/clamps so not sure if you knew that was available or not. The engine covers which have your PCV valves would then need to be changed to fittings also most likely, which you can weld on. The PCV valves correspond to AN-16 size from memory, any smaller would be a restriction. Unless someone has tried fittings on the catch can and just clamped at the PCV valve side, I personally don't know how well braided line would sit on the standard PCV valve outlets. The way Jordy has his catch can setup would be the ideal way if you go down the route of fittings on the engine covers and catch can.

Or do both A and B and enjoy a street weapon. For Cutty, I've got a 2.6L currently and still enjoy the motor with HKS GT-SS turbos. It revs freely and produces the power/response I want currently. When I go down the upgrade path like you are I will definitely be increasing my displacement for many positive reasons. The main reasons being I'll have more power down low which is what I like in my cars to get it moving quicker and response as I want my power usable while driving on the street. I value having a license so not having to rev to 7k+ to get a kick is always a benefit. If you see Piggaz's graphs and results from his 2.8L compared to a 2.6L you will see why everyone agrees to go in that direction. You aren't shooting the sky for high numbers but an enjoyable and fun street car, which the 2.6 can deliver and so can the 2.8. But if you look at the 2.8 vs 2.6 graph you can see how different the cars run and you can enjoy that early response/power compared to waiting longer if that is what you fancy, while keeping the motor at safe levels for reliability. In summary, both will get you what you want, a forged 2.6L or a stroked 2.8L. You can run both safely for the street and get the performance you are chasing. The 2.8 has the benefit of coming on earlier which is something I particularly like. The forged 2.6 has it benefits too but you'll lack that extra displacement which most people here recommend. Anthony also mentioned diffs, something to consider in your build after engine choice as they make a huge difference.

The price you'll spend on the rebuild/refresh of an RB26 you may as well go the extra and go for the RB28 if you are determined. The car won't be sluggish and you'll enjoy the low down torque more and response you get from the car. If you didn't have to do a rebuild I'd say stay with the motor you have and just put on a nice set of twins and supporting mods for it and you can enjoy a nice response street car. Then you can improve other components of the car like steering and what not with the cash you didn't throw at a rebuild to get it driving well.

What jangles said about cost or guidelines for remaining 2.6L would be my vote, otherwise most go 2.8L or RB30 bottom end conversion. If your current motor is healthy you could do some modifications to it and get between 300-400kw on 98 with the right set of turbos and keep it responsive. But you lose reliability and run a higher risk of the motor giving in at some stage depending on many conditions, the tune being a big one. If you go with the 2.8L or RB30 you give yourself that extra low down torque as an advantage, on top of having a fresh engine. In the end, your power figure can definitely be achieved on stock displacement and with the right setup would be a great car to drive and plenty of power for the street. Reliability and properly tuned car would be the best solution, regardless of displacement size as your power goal can be achieved from stock displacement as mentioned and it will not be considered a lag monster. rb28 or rb30 would be my recommendation. Understanding what you want from the build/car as an end goal helps with these decisions also as they can be quite difficult and costly to get wrong.

If money is no issue, which it shouldn't be if you are working with a GTR, then the 2.8L and a single turbo would be the best path in my opinion. Unless you fancy twin turbos you can pull more response and power from a modern single than those HKS turbos that are fairly old technology now. Personally wouldn't put either of those turbos on a 2.8L and there is a big difference between the two as stated. If you can provide more information about your intentions you might get some more help because you seem to already know the answer to your question. Personally I wouldn't pull rebuild or strip down my GTR just to put a 26 back in it. The people who have put in the 2.8L or larger never look back and its for a good reason. I'd reconsider turbo choices also unless you have your mind set on those particular turbos. In the end it all comes down to preference really.

Was a while ago but I thought there was someone on here who custom made tank lids purpose built for E85. Might be worth seeing who does them as that seems like the best solution.

Take some spare undies when you next go for a full throttle run after you get the car back Pete. I'm sure you'll need them, just reading the graphs you can see how much of an animal this car has become just from those few changes. You'll definitely be happy with the choices you made and now you will be able to enjoy the car shortly. Just be careful with all that power you now have.