breaker1845

What Paul linked, you can buy the boot replacement kits from Kudos at that price for your CV shafts. Best to do inner/outer if the other one looks suspect as well. You could also try your local power steering and CV shaft shop. I source genuine through mine and it's much cheaper. Alternative is to use Nissan Part Numbers and get the items from Japan at a cheap price but wait like 3 weeks.

Coolant temperature sensor, fuel getting too hot and/or over working the fuel pump? Jez should be able to sort it out for you.

Polish up your welding and grinding skills or become mates with someone that is. Rust is going to be common on quite a few spots on the majority of GTRs, the exception of some lucky ones that do not have any at all. The car being quite old and being in Japan for a decent portion of its life makes it more prone to the issue also. It will be a big job and take time to do it properly so best to be aware of that, cutting corners to rush it is not advised. How easy it is to repair depends on the scale of damage too, surface rust is not so bad but holes in panels is much more difficult. Trying to find an immaculate shell with no rust also would be quite difficult. So if you can spend the time fixing all the rust or potential rust issues before they become a big problem then it's much easier. If you have a built motor going in then personally I would spend the time fixing all of the rust issues and any other problems before dropping in the built motor.

There are none. Pay for the OEM Nissan one. Plenty of places where they can be sourced at a cheaper rate rather than directly from Nissan. For the record they are not what I would consider expensive but opinions differ. Do you know that you need an actual replacement IACV to begin with also?

Auxiliary belt pulley bearings maybe. Sometimes when they are on their way out they will whine a bit while at idle but usually won't hear anything at higher revs. Put your ear up to the pulley as close as you can and you might be able to pin point if its coming from there or not.

Flush your radiator and make sure your thermostat is working correctly for a start. You could have a problem with your water pump failing as you mentioned it happens on idle. 18 months is not a long time but if the parts aren't quality then the bearings in the pump can fail quite easy. Kinks' theory is spot on.

Extremely rich. Should be around low 12's for AFR's for E85 from memory. You could probably push a few more degrees in timing but really depends on a heap of variables so generally asking it's hard to give a definite answer. Best to be safe and not cause any damage by checking your timing carefully on the dyno. As Trent mentioned, fix your fueling up as you are putting in way too much for E85, even 98 isn't that rich.

Check your PowerFC first to see if they are even switched on because if they aren't, unplugging them shouldn't do anything. Also poor fuel consumption may not just be O2 sensors, other components can affect that too. But you did say you had some issues with hesitation and such that you believe is cleared once you disable the oxygen sensors. If you have time, discussing with your tuner about your level of satisfaction or what you have discovered about the tune may also help if it was recently done. You won't run lean disconnecting the o2 sensors either if that is your concern. You can order new sensors if you want from Kudos and they usually arrive at your door within a few days. If the sensors are buggered (you can check readings from PowerFC or manually) then effectively if they are on and you disconnect them it would be beneficial, which I suspect could be your case.

Probably f**ked the board and it needs replacing, lol. Pull out cluster and see what you can do to fix it yourself but if something is gone on the PCB behind the speedometer then you'll need a new board and they aren't cheap. Easier to buy a new cluster if that is the case.

I'd spend the time to pull all the turbo side piping off from intake to inter-cooler to have a look and see how much gunk and shit has been collected and might be worth cleaning it all up. Obviously the lowest points in the pipework will collect/pool all of the oil over time. As Hadouken said, you should invest in a Catch Can. Preferably one that will work and not just put the shit back into your intake if you plumb it back, or send it to an external filter.

You should do some more searching as all those answers can be solved pretty quickly but I can summarize I guess. 1. You have a PowerFC so you should get ahold of the FAQ guide and you can actually go through the menu and check to see if your O2 senors are working from a Hand Controller. When Dyno Tuning, the sensors are either turned on or off basically as they are set to open or closed loop. When they are on they just trim fuel on cruise loads to increase fuel efficiency basically. Research some more if you want to learn more. If your tuner is good you can just turn them off and tune with the sensors and get the results you want anyway. 2. You can test oxygen sensors to see if they are faulty with a multimeter, if you get a very small voltage they are not working, forget what the actual range is. Search for how what values to look for a what wires (of the 3) to check. 3. You need the correct sensors for your GTR, which if it isn't a 32, you use zirconia ones. The 32 ones use a different composite and they don't work for the 33/34. Look up Kudos motorsport as they sell OEM senors. Could source elsewhere from Japan cheaper if you are keen. I wouldn't bother replacing them unless they are actually not working though. Do the test first. 4. Your car should be running rich (not excessive though) so if anything not having an O2 sensor would just make your fuel efficiency worse if it hasn't been compensated for by the tuner and you unplug the sensor. You might get fault codes and other stuff appear but there shouldn't be any real problems as far as I know. 5. Get a wide band for your car so you can measure and read AFR values while driving if you want. Very handy for tuning and detecting fuel issues that may occur. The PowerFC Hand Controller is very useful if you know how to use and read off it. Wouldn't suggest making any changes as they are only temporary from the controller anyway, but good to understand what you can monitor and see in case you have any problems that come up. In short, you can just ask your tuner if he has it set to closed/open loop or how he set the tune up as he should know. Liked stated in the dot points, the car should run rich but not to a ridiculous point. If you have concerns after fixing/checking O2 sensors raise it with your tuner maybe.

You can buy thread repair kits and then fix the stripped thread that way. Most bolt shops should be able to supply them. It's pretty straight forward but should read up on google on whats involved and how it works before going ahead and doing it.

AAC and IAC valves under your plenum might be causing you grief. Also your blow of valves, how are they setup? recirculating or no? Sounds like you have a constant vacuum leak that you notice under idle

If you don't know what it is don't touch it? Got a workshop around that is experienced with Skylines that can help you out? Smoke test and getting the vehicle on a hoist will help significantly. I'd still put money on it being the BOVs or a combination of BOVs being not plumbed back, broken and the ECU tune being rich to begin with.

Both are more than what you actually need as already mentioned. So you both lose?

Can you take your cooler off and just run a relocated filter and see what happens?

Easier to wind back to odo to show that it still has 24 thousand km to go before the 100,000km service!

Your oil and filter choice is fine. But the pressure not building up instantly on start up is a problem. You shouldn't be seeing a delay in pressure build up and the light should not come on. There is definitely some underlying problem and the tappet noise could well be related to it. Is there anything you may have skimmed over in the build (if you did it yourself) accidentally or some kind of blockage/restriction? Might want to check the oil cooler is not getting restricted, causing that slight delay in pressure build up.

You'll break 400kw with it I bet.

You have the stock bov's but are they actually functioning correctly and plumbed back? If they aren't that is probably your issue. Run it on the dyno or do a smoke test to find your leaks after checking the BOVs. It could be poorly tuned also contributing with the leak resulting in the car stalling.

Chances are you can't hear the rattle after 2000rpm and it could still be there or its due to vibrations at idle and low rpm. Noises are usually very hard to identify just by sound unless its unique. If you can do more testing and try and eliminate variables it may help. Or getting under the car and putting load on the engine to see what happens. Can you hear the noise in neutral or just while in gear? Possible heat shields on exhaust or something? Need more information to help you out. For the 'bump' issue, it could be diff related but can't confirm. Have you serviced the diff recently and checked all the moving parts are alright?

Sounds like they didn't go into the cold start setup on the ECU and compensation settings. Hopefully it all goes well when it returns.

Better to replace pulleys with new stock ones in my opinion if they are a problem. HKS/Tomei Cam Gears are fine and nice upgrade if you plan on actually using them by dialing in timing otherwise they serve no purpose except to look pretty and function the same as the stock ones. I hate Ebay and like to buy from trusted sources which will ensure I receive quality products with no chance of replicas. If a pulley or cam gear fails because you bought from ebay you'll be in a bit of trouble. The Gates Racing timing belt and pump kit is a good choice, just make sure it's genuine gates products. You might want to look at your Fan belts also while you are there.

Buy the hyper gear turbo with his waste gate and get a boost controller unless you have the PFC one. Install the turbo and re-tune the car. Drive away a happy customer.

I've just replaced turbos on a r33 and the stock manifolds were in good condition, however not as old as the r32. Stock manifolds are one of the best for twins because of the type of material used. They can be prone to heat cycles which causes warping and damage depending on life as you said but replacing them for more expensive ones (using different material) that will crack easier seems silly in my opinion. Sourcing a good condition 2nd hand pair if yours are damaged would be what I would do. You could get an exhaust made up if you wanted, depends how easy it is to do with your location though. The stock exhaust seems too restrictive but quiet. Where as you can buy bolt-on systems that flow better but still are noisy on idle, etc, which is not what you want. Something a bit bigger than stock, up to 3" maximum and a good muffler or two mufflers will help the most. Having a small diameter will compromise performance but increasing diameter from dumps down and having a good cat will give better flow and reduce emissions (if that is a problem). Then putting on some quality mufflers before the tail end of the exhaust will drop the noise down and keep it quiet on idle. I don't really have any brand suggestions for mufflers though. You might have to search and see what people recommend.