breaker1845

Changing exhaust manifolds is a waste of money and time, unless they are damaged to start with. Stay with stock because they are good up to 400kw. Stock sound is boring and quiet. Find a nice exhaust with a good note and not extremely loud or odd sounding on boost or at idle. If you are keen on that though, follow what Bob said. Intake modifications make a difference while the car is under load and you will hear it while you are driving. ADM stands for Australian Domestic Market, the R32 Gtr had a limited number made for Australia straight from factory as opposed to the JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) version where they were exported to Australia meaning they had to go through compliance and such again for Australian law.

Are you able to get it up on a hoist and have the car running in neutral, inspect the operation of the clutch fork? The noise is probably still there while driving just can't hear it. I'd say the gearbox is fine and you are probably having an issue with the fork or something clutch related as you mentioned the issue is due to operation of the clutch. Anyway to fix the problem you will have to remove the box so best to run fresh oil anyway once you know the problem is fixed. Best to get under there and check it out, could be another component causing the noise and intermittent occurrence does not help.

If you follow the service manual for your car it is pretty straight forward and probably a decent tutorial. If your mate can change a clutch on another car then you shouldn't have any major problems. If you are doing it at your home make sure you have the time, space and equipment (trolly jack and stands) available as not having a hoist or proper equipment will require patience. Gearbox removal is straight forward and there are plenty of guides on that, doesn't have to be very specific because the general process is the same. Once you have the clutch out, get flywheel off and inspect condition and if okay to reuse make sure the surface is machined before going back on. Don't ever reuse the flywheel bolts either, buy new ones. Tackle the rear main seal next and make sure you do it properly or it will just leak down the track and you'll have to replace it again.

Launching it is the best part .

Oh right, didn't even notice.

There is a thread for getting VIN's fasted you can post in if you don't mind waiting a day or so to get the results back. Ghost posted the link earlier, just go to the last page and add the VIN you want fasted I guess. Should provide most of the details. If the car is currently registered in a state you can also go to the state government website and do a quick check with the VIN for details regarding compliance and security for free or a small fee usually.

You should have an import plate also as Terry said in addition to the build plate. Once a car is registered in Australia for the first time though the import plate doesn't have to be displayed either after that. If in doubt you can always check the VIN number on Nissan Fast or something to confirm the status of the car. Once the car is registered it will have all the compliance details attached to it as it's required.

http://www.users.on.net/~goofyhsk/info/chassis_plate.html You can use that as a guide on how to decode the plate and what each letter means. For that plate I have no idea what the last 3 letters mean. But seems like a Standard GTR that's imported. If it was ADM or Nismo, etc you'd notice the letters would have a certain combination, etc.

Find someone competent with a Dyno in your country? No one is going to remotely tune it for you. Bet you didn't consider the tuning part when building/modifying your car huh?

For reference the dropping resistor is near the engine fuse box and it's a large metal casing attached to the body/strut of the car, pretty hard to miss. If you Google what one looks like you'll identify it straight away.

Get the underside of the car checked for any worn bearings/bushes and potential rust issues that the car may have. If it has plenty of those that you can't see just by going around the car then you could be up for some work. Also the 40,000km is likely to be BS, most likely closer to 150,000km or more, so if you really wanted to know the true value before it was imported you can do the Japanese History/Rego check thing and you can get the Auction Documents for a small fee. You'd be able to guess with certain things on the car aging the difference between "40,000" and the unknown true value. Secondly if you are daily driving and the engine is in good condition, verified by a compression test, then needing to rebuild the whole engine is a load of shit, it's like driving another car, except if things break or you want to do things it will cost you a fortune compared to other dailies. If the car is in good condition and you purchase it and it's fairly stock, daily driving shouldn't be an issue. Just make sure you keep up regular maintenance intervals and check over the car frequently to make sure it's all running well. Quite easy to do a fair amount of things on the RB yourself just read up if you are unsure. I Daily drive a 33 gtr currently and the car is reliable just like any other car with maintenance, but when you start wanting to modify it you have to take it off the road and need some other form of transport until its ready again. My car sits fairly low and I have some problems getting up driveways and jacking up the car requires 3 stages.

You can buy the Tomei sealant and reseal it all properly if you want to be sure. Otherwise you will find out when you have a high idle after putting the motor in the car and you'll be up for more work. There is a guide/thread about it all on here as people think to clean them out while its off but ends up causing more drama.

The lines might be on back to front for your washer bottle motors. If you go to the washer bottle and see where the plugs are, make sure they are going into the correct socket. White plug and socket, green plug and socket. The lines attaching to the washer bottle motors, which are located on the underside of the bottle are also marked on the line with white and green colours to indicate which line goes to what motor. Check that this is all good and if you still have a problem then you might have a blockage at the jets or one of the motors could be stuffed.

RHD Japan or Perfect Run, amongst other places that deliver directly from Japan probably your best option. They will have what you want or can get it at a price probably cheaper than you'll get from the USA or AUS. Only problem is you usually have to wait several months for an item like that.

It would be the cheapest of the upgrades available and it depends on the purpose of the car. Some more information about the car and use would be helpful.

Be careful with those throttles as you can remove the seal and cause more leaks. The intake side is never fun when putting back together. I've seen some good work come out of JEM and they seem to be able to do it fairly quickly which is a bonus. Maybe give them a ring if you are inclined to go to them and see what they can do for you. Looking forwards to the results from this build.

All three clutches will work well for what you want. Depends if you care about clutch feel for street or whatever then obviously the Nismo will feel much closer to stock than the Jim Berry or NPC.

Have fun working out how to install your 'serge' tank as you clearly came here asking for help with no idea and will probably leave that way with the attitude you bring. People can't help you if you are retarded, want to be spoon fed and provide no information.

Many people have still had timing scatter issues with the Haltech Platinum Pro ECU and ended up going with a crank trigger kit to resolve the issue. Although expensive in some way, it is practically insurance for your motor at higher power builds when most of the time you want to be pushing the car hard and don't want to risk the timing scatter causing issues with a tightly tuned motor. There is a really detailed thread on here about the issue somewhere, I'm sure someone can link you or you'll be able to search it . And for what it's worth, a brand new CAS would be logical on a build like this if you aren't using a new one and no crank trigger kit.

Use that search engine called 'Google', might give you some ideas. And if you have questions provide some relevant information that warrants yours intent for a surge tank. Unless you are putting one in because every other gtst owner does. To be blunt, we can't help you much unless you provide us with information about your current setup, plans for the car, power output, etc and why. Then people would be happy to share their experience and ideas with you.

Kudos sell just the genuine Nissan pump for R32 Gtr if you have all the other components. You could source from Japan also but obviously time to receive and postage would be the big things to consider.

More details always help. What have you checked so far? All electrical connections and fuses working? Can you hear the new pump priming and the car cranking but no spark or what? It's a no brainer but make sure oil and filter is changed too. You've probably glossed over something that you unplugged or forgot about years ago, or if it was running when you last stopped it then something has seized/failed over the years.

I bet your Coolant temperature sensor is faulty or broken. You can test the sensor to confirm this, just read up on how to do it, only require a multimeter and time.

You can test basically any sensor with a multimeter as temperature, airflow and other variables are directly related to a voltage or resistance range reading so the ECU can read and control what it wants through power from your battery.

For genuine glass window, yeah that is about right for the price. It's expensive as hell to get.