Leadfoot

Consider them bought. Have left message on your mobile. My mob is 0409883996

Deposit on a house is good. Sounds easy but actually making 20% for a deposit is extremely hard. Funnily enough my nana helped us get the last bit of the deposit. Took 2 years to pay it back with 2 salaries coming in and when I thought it would only take a year. Yes you can get no deposit loans but interest rates are a lot higher. You also have no way to negotiate a good interest rate. Current interest rates for deposits barely cover inflation. At 6% in real value terms your probably going backwards. I would buy a house ASAP. Someone once said to me a house loan is like forced savings. Didnt think much about it at the time but its very true. Wouldnt touch shares with a barge pole at the moment. The world economy is being driven by China and that bubble is starting to show signs of weakness.

Just Jap sell new ones for $3500. That was 6months ago anyway. From Nissan $5000+

Thats exactly the sort of direction Australian law is taking. We are running the risk of becoming a highly litiguous country which will increase costs of labour and make us even less competative to the likes of China and Japan and everthing will be eventually be made outside Australia. Just see how much the freway extension costs have blown out. Before long we wont even be to legally able piss on the left hand wooden spoke rim (er tyre) without risk of a passer by filming it and claiming indecent exposure. Happened to a mate of mine but thats another story. We gotta protect our freedom because if we go the direction of precedents set by US law we stand to loose a lot. eg Prohibition for one, three strikes and your out and capital punishment. Thats three pretty good reasons to look after what we got here in Australia. The power of a US highway trooper is also pretty crazy. There are some other benefits of US law. The right to shoot and kill an intruder and the right to possession of handguns?? Something to aim for I reckon. The government had to legislate in certain examples to prevent the law getting completely out of hand. For example the incident where the dude succesfully sued the Waverely/Bondi beach council for negligence when he got his neck broken after being dumped by a wave. Admittedly the beach signage was incorrect and life guards had flags in the wrong spot. There was also some contributory negiligence but I reckon you assume a lot when you decide to swim in the ocean. Strong rips and shark attacks are but two other risks you assume when jumping in the ocean. Hell you could even step on a needle on the way down to the water and get hepatitis B or somethinbg worse. You could also then try and sue the council for failing to see the risk of drug injectors who would concevably use the beach for this purpose. This just goes on and on and someone at the end of the day has gotta see sense. Public liability duty of care claims went open slather for a while after this until legislation got through that put a cap on the limit of claims. This could have been a contibuting factor HIH going under. If you drive on the road at speeds over 60km/h you run the chance of getting killed. Its an accepted risk. Every tree, lamp post and concrete wall you pass is a fatality risk. The fact is the risk is very very low. If I want to travel from Perth to Bunbury I dont want it to take 4 hrs. I accept the risk and travel at 100km/h and it takes 2 hours. Luckily 99% of people also see the same way. Its the 1% of people that cause so much trouble for the rest. Usually the paranoid neurotic types that hate to see anyone else enjoying themselves. Dont get me wrong though, I am dead against individuals that have no respect for the safety of others. I have found these people to actually be quite rare (possibly through darwin awards) and more often than not do not drive performance cars. If I see someone having a bit of harmles fun Im not going to dob them in or try to film them. Enjoyment of life starts with not worrying about very very small probabilities.

Its just a winge board. It encourages others to winge about others no matter how trivial the misdemeanor. The people engaging in the winging are too legally nieve to realise that what they are doing is unlawful. When it comes to criminal matters a person cannot be judged by the uninformed citizens and members of the public and this is what is occuring. If I personally were to receive a complaint I do not think I would be very happy. The fact that they will remove the comment once the person has found it (could be years) is a very small concilliation to my mind. If someone were to have there career jepordised by the media obtaining and publishing this information (say a poitician for example) then this would be grossly unfair. Stepping right off my box now ...

I see most comments about idiotdrivers.com.au are along the lines of 1) useless website 2) poor search engine 3) who gives a damm 4) etc, etc However the concept of idiotdrivers.com.au is also immoral and more importantly ILLEGAL. Moderators of this forum are well aware of potential consequences of making unjustified statements about individuals, particular workshops and community groups. idiotdrivers.com.au basically allows people to make defamatory remarks about others that cannot be proven. Okay, so people are not named, however a personalised number plate is by no means anonymous. idiotdrivers.com.au should be shut down. Also anyone who uses that site to make a defamatory claim against another could potentially be used for defamation (ie inferring another person is a criminal or engages in criminal activity). hehe bring on the law suits

Are seats S1 or S2. Interested in drivers seat/seats if S2.

Looking at the boost curve it appears that the initially required duty cycle (at 3500 rpm) is not set correctly to meet your boost target of 1.6kg/cm). 1) At 3500 rpm your turbo is finally making enough pressure to overcome the actuator spring pressure. Prior to this your 2mm reducer and bleed off valve have no effect. 2) The sudden reduction in boost pressure after 3500 rpm is due to the solenoid bleeding off too much pressure. The duty cycle is too low at this point (even at 85% open) and the waste gate has opened too much due to too much pressure on the actuator. This suggests the reducer is incorrectly sized and you need to reduce the duty cycle (overall) in order to gain some control at the onset of boost - 3500rpm. My guess is that a bigger reducer would give you better control of boost at this point. The 2mm reducer cannot relieve enough pressure fast enough at this point and the waste gate is opening too much. 3) The boost response from say 4500 rpm to 6000rpm is fairly normal. 4) To retain a flatter boost curve after 6000rpm a multi channel boost controller might be needed to pull down the duty and open the waste gate as this turbo really starts to come on steam. A simple proportional controller as per the PFC may not be able to act fast enough in this sort of situation.

and also for completeness of this record and for anyone also contemplating the idea, I have justed tested the climate control fan at all 4 speed settings with the windows up and I have lost about 25% of the air flow when switching between recirc and fresh air mode. Once I wind the window down in fresh air mode the fan flow jumps back up 25% to normal. There are still gaps along the rear and sides of the parcel shelf for ventilation however at a guess I believe that removing the vents has reduced the effective open area by around 50%. This leads me to think that not installing the vents in the back parcel shelf may not be a good idea for the small benefit in sound quality from the rear speakers. The drivers door closes easily with the window slightly down. With the window up the door needs about twice the effort to make it close. Oh well.

Now that you mention it the drivers door does take a bit more effort to close now.

Ah yes those ADR boys. Sorry, nothing personal. I suppose I was just laughing at the irony of how poor the seal is between the boot and cabin in an R33. Hydrogen is the fastest diffusing gas known to man and will move throughout the enitre car within a matter of minutes even through the smallest hole. Sometimes I just laugh at some of the rules these people come up with, however I suppose they are designed to protect the masses. As you say it is probably the acid that is the greater concern. I must admit we have had a few battery explosion incidents in trucks over the last few weeks from poor jump starting practices. In one case acid was sprayed 30ft away. In an R33 that could make a real mess of the boot and stereo gear. A good reason to attach the jumper leads to the terminal points provided under the bonnet rather than on the battery.

Hydrogen is not really toxic in the amounts that would be produced by a battery. Hydrogen is more more likely to explode before it would poison anyone and there are plenty of ignition sources under the bonnet if that was going to be a problem. My main concen would be that this bit of metal is structural. Removing it will reduce the crushing strength of the vehicle in event of an accident and also the torsional strength through the rear axle line. If the metal sheet was removed and replaced by some diagonal braces the original strength of the vehicle would be more or less unaltered. It could also conveivably be argued that the speakers installed in the cutout of the metal sheet are stronger than the original metal and no strength is lost. Would depend on the installation and might be something best left to the experts.

I would recommend people dont put the vent holes back in the new shelf as much as it might preserve the original look it may detract from the mid-bass sound quality. The vent holes will allow air to short circuit from the front of the speaker to the back. This reduces the speakers efficiency to make bass. When I cut my new shelf I did not put the vents back in. The rear window does not seem to be fogging up at all. I dont know what the purpose of those holes are to be truthful. If you have a subwoofer in the boot though it may be worth putting the vents in so the boot air pressure doesnt destory your rear speakers.

The R34 box for sale (link previously posted) is $1800 with clutch. $1500 without. He might even throw in the slave cylinder if you ask. I only mentioned it as it sounds like a good buy if it is indeed in the good condition the owner says. Transport via Greyhounds Busfreight was $70 from Melbourne to Perth which is how I transported mine. Wrapped it in plastic and tied it to a small crate. Other couriers I approached were $250 and above and from what I heard use Busfreight anyway.

My S1 RECO box was worse than my original S2 box I replaced it with in terms of noise but at least 5th gear was useable. The S1 box probably had a lot more miles on it though. The bearing clearances were not properly set so there is a noticable slop in the drivetrain in going on and off the throttle. There is also a whine for the first 5 or 10 seconds which then goes away. A lot will depend on who rebuilds the transmission. I couldnt find many gearbox places in Perth that would touch it to be honest. As a guide each synchro set is $250 from Nissan and then around $50 for each bearing. A low km R34 box still has a lot of life in it and is going to be much better than a +100,000 km R33 box. Every part in it will have a lot less wear. Reconditioning the box only fixes those areas that are truly stuffed. That doesnt stop something else breaking further down the track. The fix for a R34 box is to make sure you get the pull type slave cyclinder with it along with the pull type clutch (as per a GTR).

Sounds like the main shaft bearings are gone. The quote I got to fix my box was over $1500 for just a few bearings and synchro's and that was just to fix a 5th gear grind and 1st 2nd 3rd gear crunching. What you need is a good second hand box: Just so happens there's a good R34 5 speed thats done only 30,000kms for $1500. Thats a good buy if its in the condition they say it is. It will fit straight up. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=135335 The 5spd R34GTT box has the upgraded synchros. Not 100% sure but the clutch pull might be different than the R33 so you would need to keep that in mind. Might pay to buy his clutch as well. Your other option is to buy a brand new box from JustJap for $3500. I seriously considered that as well. Thats also the R33/R34 uprated box.

Just a warning but I hope everyone here who has done this conversion should check the EFI hose after 3 months because thats about how long mine lasted. I have tried several types of EFI hose and none are compatable with "full immersion". EFI hose has an inner buytl rubber for fuel resistance and an outer PVC hose for strength. The outer PVC hose fails very quickly once fully immersed. Once this fails the inner hose bursts under pressure. My first hose lasted around 6 months and nearly left me stranded. Luckily it failed just around the corner from home. The car wouldnt start once I stopped the engine. The outcome could have been a lot worse. I did a lot of ringing around and apparently the only truly compatable hoses are the factory made ones. It must be of butyl/butly construction I suspect which is really rare. Hose suppliers do not carry this sort of hose so it would be best to reuse the existing hose if you can. The second hose I tried was already looking sad after the first week. Their may be rubber hoses that are compatable but no supplier could guarentee there hose was going to last forever. I eventually solved the problem by going to a braided teflon hose from hosemasters (a mining and hydraulic supplies outlet). Teflon is a bit difficult as it does not bend easily and doesn't seal as well as rubber. I used barbed end connectors and double hose clamps and tested it in a bucket before installing and there wasnt the slightest leak so I know it works. If anyone has had other experience than this then I gladly stand to be corrected, however 2 out of 2 failures with EFI hose says I should warn others just in case.

I can vouch for the performance of the Xreme 9 puck cushioned ceramic clutch. I have done some track days with it and I generally give the car a bit of a work out anyway. My car dynos at 250rwhp so this is not an account of the clutches power capability. However, I can certainly vouch for its drivablity characteristics which, to me, is very important. Just for reference I went for the heavy duty version which is hard, but not totally ridiculuous. If you get caught in one hour of heavy trafffic it might become a little bit tiresome but nothing that your calf muscles wont eventually adapt to. It is also recommended the flywheel is faced which I had done as well. The clutch feels really smooth for about one week till it wears in (about the same feel as an organic clutch). After that the pressure plate beds in and it develops its proper bite. The typical issues with puck and brass button clutches is their on/off nature. The XTreme 9 puck does not suffer from that as such. It is quite possible to slip the clutch with a degree of control, for example an easy take off from the lights when being followed by Mr Plod. The let out point does become a bit sharper but once you find where that is its not a problem. Reversing however is a bit trickier as a chattering or reverberation in the drive train can start up which requires you to push the clutch back in and try again. However once you learn to use a few more revs than you would on an organic clutch, say about 1800rpm, there is no chattering or jerking at all. The only time it happens to me now is when I forget or I am trying not to wake up the neighbours early in the morning. On the power capability side it will chirp the tyres between 1st and 2nd gears if your powering hard and the revs arnt right. It definately feels much stonger than the stocker. At no time does it feels that the clutch might be slipping even at the traction limit of the rear tyres. However by the same token its not that harsh that it could be severely shortening the lfe of the transmission. All in all I would say the Xtreme 9 puck is a really good compromise between power capability, aceptable feel and smoothness, passenger comfort and longevity on the drivetrain. Once you learn the intracacies of it the car can be driven just like it has the stock clutch and no one would even know. Ken from Hyperdrive (Perth) was installing a lot of the Xtreme 9 puck cushioned ceramics about 12 months back when I had mine replaced. He said he was putting them on cars with up to 400rwhp. Might want to send him a PM or even give them a call if you want a second reference or to see if his opinion has changed.

Am interested in the Nismo boost/EGT guage. PM sent. Will discuss payment via PM.

PM sent in regard to turbo.

I'll take the rear GTR wing. PM sent Rgds Andre

Have PM'd you my mobile No. I am in Perth.

go to www.gasresearch.com.au for the Gas Research website. I have put a gold series carb on my 4.1 crossflow 6cyc XE falcon. The motor was fully rebuit and worked beforehand to suit the gas. It has high compression, high lift cams and bigger inlet valves. I also have an EB falcon on gas too. To my mind the gas research carb is the best out there but they are arounf $1000 for the carb + vapouriser. Unfortunately it is very rare that you will achieve the same power on gas as petrol. Both of my cars lost power in the conversion. The latest BA falcon can be bought with a factory fitted dedicated LPG system which makes only 150kW compared to the 180kW on petrol. Whilst it is possible to make more torque than the same engine on petrol the power output cannot be matched. The problem is to do with the greater volume (space) taken up by the LPG per intake stroke because of the higher fuel to air ration required. Fuel has around 8 carbon atoms per molecule and LPG has around 4. The other problem is that on average kilometers, 20,000 per year, it will take 2 or 3 years to pay for the LPG gas installation system, and thats just a cheap, $1500 conversion. A high performance V8 will need 2 gas carbs.

I am interested. PM sent

Cheers Noble, My parts were freighted out today via busfrieght. Busfreight is the cheapest freight service to WA for big or heavy items for anyone else looking to do the same. There may be a maximum weight restriction though. The gearbox was 60kg which was pushing the limit I believe. Cost was around $70 which I underestimated but Noble paid the difference :-) Thanks again.