JH32

if the car's going back to CRD for an extended period to fix the tune issue, perhaps it's not a bad idea to get them to do the starter while it's there, even if it does cost you more. Saves the hassles of stuffing around with the local bloke, then you can tell CRD that you don't want the car back until it's purring.

Haha love the launch vid!

I don't think R34 GTR prices are necessarily climbing, but they're not coming rocketing down either. But really the R33 has never been an overly popular shape - how often have you heard people say that the 34R was the thing of childhood dreams, in fact I think I have seen you say something similar in another thread. On the other hand how many people have said that the 33R was their childhood dream car, doubtful there'd be very many. There's no doubt a lot of people in your position that could afford either - that level of demand at a certain price point combined with the clear popularity lead that the 34 has over the 33 obviously keeps the price propped up.

Nice build mate, good to see you having a good crack with the gtst. I much prefer the series 2 rear spoiler over the series 1 Good luck with the compression test!

Have a look here mate, quite a few decent events to get involved in: http://www.wascc.com.au/Uploads/pdf/2015%20ALL%20EVENTS%20b.pdf Also here: http://www.nolimitevents.com/

/thread over Next!

Aside from the issues with the misfiring etc, what were you hoping for? More response, more top end power? You always said you were after approx. 400rwkw which is roughly what you got so I'm assuming it's not the peak power.

It's just a password or a code of some sort that you'll need to access the tune. But yes unless the other tuner has the code, they can't access it. However, I'm pretty sure that they can reset the whole ECU and start from scratch if you so choose.....*I think*...

That does seem much less than I had expected...seems very torquey though! Aside from the misfiring, how does it drive? (EDIT: Answered above.) P.S. Locking the ecu is shit.

Apparently Meltham Motors is pretty good, I've never been there but heard good things.

The reality is, the OP built the car for himself, the way he wanted it, and this is his build thread. Of course it's going to have some element of lag, as if you'd get 1000hp by 4000rpm. But either way, who cares? No point carrying on about it.

What an awesome machine, would love to see some vids!

He's no doubt referring to the gear ratio options you have when buying the box

I'm sure Prank could change things up a bit if people wanted to put their hands up to be moderators / WA Execs to try and get the forum cranking again. In addition to GTSTVspec I see Dan_the_man (WA Exec) likewise hasn't been on for over a year. Probably just comes down to people volunteering. It's a shame because the NSW / VIC / QLD clubs seem to get some decent track events etc going.

Wow, that's a great looking car XKLABA!

Yes, yes you did

OEM stuff is fine, though unless you need the gear urgently I'd shop around as I've never found these guys to be particularly competitive on pricing.

Yep, what Ben said in a nutshell. Really, there's plenty of info out there on how to do it. I used this guide to do mine: http://forums.nicoclub.com/my-ls2-ls7-coil-swap-t353832.html EDIT: actually this was the guide I used, but the one above helped fill in some gaps: http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/rb-tech/137034-rb25det-series-2-ls2-truck-coil-pack-swap.html Basically for each coil, there is a couple of grounds, a +12v and a trigger wire. 1) I joined the ground from each coil together (in series? dunno what the technical term is) and then had one single ground wire coming out the end of the new harness that then attached to one spot on the valley cover (see attached pic). 2) I did the same with the power wire for each coil, joined them all together. The single power that comes out the end of your harness then connects into the connector at the back of the head with 3 wires going into it (circled green in my pic attached). 3) The other 2 wires in that connector circled in green are i) the signal ground which is also ground to the valley cover, and ii) the trigger wire which you won't need anymore (you will see why when you remove all the back wrapping off the coil pack harness). When you go about connecting the trigger wires to the wires that go into the ignitor (you will need to cut the harness on the firewall side to do this so you can plug them into your own, new connector), make sure you do each one individually so you don't stuff it up. Good advice here is to take a photo of the ignitor pack as all the wires as the wires are colour coded. Read the above, then read that link I posted, then read them both a few more times. Once you get your head around it, it's dead easy.

How about rather than bumping this thread every few hours when you don't get a response, get on google like everyone else has that has done this mod.

Oh no Sorry to hear Pete...that sucks bigtime EDIT: saw your last post. I probably wouldnt touch it personally, otherwise if something does turn out to be wrong with it then the finger might get pointed back at you. Best to just leave it to the experts.

Nice one! What's the time frame on the RB30 build? Sorry to hear about the relationship but at least now there is no leash on the spend!

Maybe follow these guys: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/343106-ts-r32-ukraine-drag-car-vr38.html

Nice build mate, you must be stoked to finally have it back - makes great power clearly! Any future plans for it or just keep as is for the time being and enjoy?

I like the plans for this

Do you call or email for updates out of interest? Surely they'd give you decent updates over the phone.