AnotherOneEightyDriver

If it's that big, the DB is probably on it. Being so I can make this program into a webpage if anyone is interested so you don't have to ask one poor guy to keep checking all the time.

Ok, I'm the paranoid here but what I do on suspensions I've learned from race car builders. For the bottom, car on the hoist, pass a string/line through the centre of the car front to back. Measure the track to your line on both sides to get a good understanding of how off the suspension mount points are (if off at all). For the top of the strut, Nissan has on their workshop manuals a series of measurements to be taken of the bonnet. If they have it for the bottom, I've never seen it but it'd be a lot easier. Knowing both top and bottom allowed the mechanics to push and bent the chassis until things were 'square' as they said.

Hi Sean, I change the bearings, ball joints, rod ends and bushes yearly on my daily drives. On some of these old cars, with the car on the hoist, you can wiggle the suspension arms big time or the wheel thanks to these components being worn out. Can be dangerous to drive like this. While at it you can check if there's any arm or link bent or any sign of metal-to-metal or tyre-to-metal touching and give everything a good clean.

Hi, A mate came around yesterday with a set of rod ends and dust boots for his 180 but they're different. The ones I get from CBC have some play and movement but the ones my mates brought around are very tight. have you guys heard of this brand 'strut tower' ? Googling for them finds nothing, not even the company site and there's no mention of it here in the forum. This address was written on the package www.struttower.com.au . Anyone here tried them before?