SimonR32

Yes I do after seeing so many issues directly related to Ross balancers. To give you an idea I know a crank that was pulled out that was bent in exactly the same spot with Ross balancer.

I would have got a file on that head to clear the cam :-)

Funny that...

Last year on a unprepped runway (Racewars) I did a high 10 @ 136mph with approx 640hp at the hubs Same runway this year I was doing similar times and trap speeds but with a passenger and a full tank on fuel with around 700hp at the hubs revving to 8000rpm With a few more revs and less 150kgs of passenger and fuel I would hope I'd be around 140mph+ Might give it ago when the drags open back up over here but the gearbox may not like it

I've got head studs, head gasket and tiny cams so I'm out! I think now days with E85 the limiting factor is going to be head stud weakness and blowing head gaskets.

Very nice!

http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-injectors/sport-compact/nissan/skyline/rb26dett-skyline/1989-2002-rb26dett Pick your poison! Direct easy drop ins that idle perfectly and no issues with E85, I would be going the 1200cc as there is no downside apart from the small price increase Shipping is usually less than a week from the USA

Do you not have overrun fuel cut turned on? Massive flamage! I like having ABS there just in case I get into a "oooo shi"t moment and can rely on that to be able to mash the peddle to the floor

I doubt much, depends on the tyre... Some 265's are wider than others I'm running 265 on 9.5" and there isn't any buldge

I'm trying to get away with no cutting the fan or shroud on the new one

Has anyone else had an issue with the fan eating away at their shroud when using a Koyo radiator with stock shroud? Mine seems to do it at high speed when the air pushes on the radiator just enough so that the shroud connects with the fan. Never used to do it until I installed N1 engine mounts and happens only above 200km/hr. I thought I had fixed the issue by cable ties on the top uprights of the radiator to the rad support which worked fine which seemed to work ok but it began munching the shroud again at Racewars at speeds above 250km/hr Pic below of the damage, it's not bad just don't want it to happen with my new shroud/fan

Correct, it's junk... I use mine but I really should get off my ass and install a adequate high speed air temp sensor

Oops misread the question, sorry! Lithium is a little wrong though, in "Precision Speak" it would be called a ....

In terms of power ability or lag?

Yes 100% worth it, a lot cheaper, easier and faster than a rebuild

I'm at about 18 months running 600rwhp at the track and now running around 700rwhp and 2 bar for fun times... Head studs are a must and probably a head gasket, so are the normal oil fixes but apart from that they are very strong

They are cheaper but by the time you put all that money and effort in it's a waste of time...

I would probably want one size down than the 1.05 in T4, actually if I could get my hands on one to see if it would fit I'd probably give one a go, but I'm not keen in spending over $2k to find out that I need to spend another $1500 getting a new manifold and plumbing Saying it looks cool is the same as saying a Thai Ladyboy looks hot

I've got a 6262 and I think the EFR would provide better response... In saying that I would say that a 6262 is on par if not better than -5s But the trade off are that they are too big, too ugly, too expensive and don't come in good external gate housing options for me

It's a balance between grip in a straight line and grip in a corner, if you grip more in a corner you get on the straight going faster which means less chance of wheelspin. In saying that, warm r-comps don't really spin at all in a straight line

Have you tracked it with these settings yet? I'm at about 4deg front and 1.5deg rear. I think I need more at the front but have not really looked into the rear as much. Mine is full interior but no stereo, hicas, air con or spare wheel/boot lining and weighs 1430ish kg without driver and 1/4 of a tank of fuel so there is a lot of scope for your car to lose some weight

Another video from Racewars, 800m roll on vs R35 GTR but I managed to snap the input shaft

I have a TS3B which is very driveable while I know people with a R3C that are very jerky. They are cheaper as well and can handle decent power, I just snapped an input shaft with over 700hp and it hasn't skipped a beat. I just checked and they come with a Hollinger 26 spline option as well

That's the size I use, they are awesome value

They are good, less than 2 sec slower than my AD050's on a 60 odd second lap. They do seem to shag out a fair bit but I do punish them, think they have had 3 or 4 tracks days so far so I'll probably get another 3 out of them