SimonR32

Nothing wrong with a RB26 and unless you want well over 500rwkw. Under that a 2.6L will pretty much match a 3.0L at 4500rpm and above which means it will be just as fast at the track or the drags because that's the rev range that is used. Obviously the extra torque off "power" of a 3.0L will be nicer to drive on the street but will also use more fuel. I know at the track I can cap the revs of my RB26 to 6000rpm and still be on boost and have plenty of torque in the next gear, it's actually still brutally quick and I have the option of an extra 2500rpm on tap if required.

Electrical gremlins are the worst, bad luck mate. Get them sorted and there is always next year

The Ross balancer caused the issue... I don't really concentrate any more when people talk about issues with them as there are so many reported it's just not worth even risking it. It was something to do with wobby balancer flogging out the keyway and destroying the crank.

haha I was wondering when you were going to post something up here If it makes you feel any better I know of another 600rwhp built RB that is getting a rebuilt motor due to issues with a ROSS balancer

Well done mate, impressive effort

It had a set of Grex cams and 1.2mm head gasket when it came from Japan (we assume it's a Greddy one as pretty much everything on the car was Trust/Greddy). When we had the sump off to put on the sump extension we checked out the internals and they are all OEM from 1991. Since then all we have done is put on the Trust sump extension, Ati balancer, Reimax oil pump gears and now after the OEM head bolts stretched it has copped for ARP2000 head studs

Yes have to agree, the V-bands are average and need locating groves

1.95bar backing off to around 1.8

As far as I'm aware they are standard, the Japs put the Grex cams in back in the day and they are only 9.1mm so only babies in terms of lift. Have never thought to check valve springs but I highly doubt it, they didn't even put aftermarket head studs in, just wacked the cams and head gasket in. I was more worried about head float after the standard head bolts stretched Same motor that came with the car in 1991 (R32) but it's a very low km example... Done 46,000kms

Finally, must be happy after such a long build just to hear it running... Looking forward to results, looks like it comes on fairly hard just after 4000rpm. Love the sequential gearbox!

Yeah from the factory block, crank, bearings, rods and pistons Belted it for a full weekend at Powercruise on 1.8bar (650hp) and it didn't miss a beat

Here is my entry RB26, stock bottom end Grex 9.1mm cams ARP2000 head Studs Greddy 1.2mm head gasket Greddy manifold and gate Precision 6262 CEA dual ball bearing 0.84 T4 divided rear HKS Type-R 100mm cooler United E85 530rwkw at just under 2bar

Turned up the wick on the old girl and went a little crazy for a street drag tune

Proper graph of my 6262

Um..... All the HICAS, air con, boot trims, spare wheel and stereo stuff. 32's are a fair bit lighter to begin with

1427kg without driver and I'm just under 80kg

That was just a single run, tuner actually wanted to go harder and felt there was still more left in it but standard head bolts didn't want to play ball. Have replaced with ARP2000 studs this morning. It trapped at 135mph with around 640hp on the same dyno so would expect around 140mph now

Still the 1200cc but they are at 108% duty on vipec. Went 580 with 1.4 bar and 650 on 1.75 bar on my other boost settings

I know it's the shittest pic in the world but this should give you an idea of 6262 power potential. We ran it up at just under 2 bar (1.96 I believe) and it went 710rwhp (530rwkw) and 776Nm. Stock bottom end RB26 with 1.2mm head gasket and Grex 9.1mm cams

Someone over here in WA just finished their RB30 with EFR8374... Apparently went 470-480rwhp on a dyno dynamics on at 1.5bar on pump 98. Full boost at 3500rpm

Time for an update, last track night I went out in the wet and managed to chicken wing the front diff and torque steer a lot... All the way up to and including 5th gear which subsequently killed the front diff. So after chasing these oil into catch can issues for a while I decided to bite the bullet, pull the motor out, replace the front diff and weld 2 fittings onto the sump. One is going to lead to the top of the catch can as a vent and the other to the bottom of the catch can as a vent/drain, all in dash 10 lines. At the moment they are blocked because we are running out of time and don't need it for powercruise this weekend which should be fun. All back together and ready for Powercruise, just needs a wash now. Will try and sneak it on the dyno before the weekend to squeeze a bit more power out of the old girl.

So it went 600ish on dynojet and 700hp on dynapack by the above comment?

With the hubber they are usually about 300-500rpm better on the street. With the roller it's usually closer but even if it was the same as the dyno it would still be awesome

Insane result even if it only built boost on the road the same as that graph it would be insane!

They are made to a jig for a R32 GTR. Very well built but not one off custom, as you can see there are 3 in that photo haha