SimonR32

Got a new fuel pump (Magnafuel) that arrived today... Getting it all ready tonight and hopefully back on the dyno tomorrow. See how it goes on 1.6bar throughout the rev range, hell if I get cheeky might go 2bar and go for 500kw

I agree with you regarding the RB25 crank case vent working well and the pressure in the RB26 sump needing to be relieved. I'm actually spewing we rushed to get my GTR ready and used a Trust sump instead of be patient and getting one from you with fittings to drain/vent to the catch can. Question regarding the RB26 turbo oil drains, why do these seem to be able to "drain" back into the pressurised sump?

They are bitey but they have feel. I had some A1RM pads in my old Green thing and they had no feel or bite and that's what caused me issues with lock ups. My mate runs a track S15 with RB25 and big hp with the PMU pads and doesn't have an issue with them locking up, he loves them.

Brakes went really well, we swapped those random pads out for some Project Mu Club Racers pretty much straight away. Tried to do the dodgy and get away with not skimming the old compound off but that failed and they vibrated like crazy. Took them back off and gave them a skim, plus added R34 GTR Brembos to the rear with the same pads and it felt very planted under brakes at the track with a good pedal feel so happy days. I would have said the 10cm was perfect, it did start running out of efficiency top end (and boost dropped off) but I would imagine that was more to do with the compressor running out of flow. Considering I was making 1bar at 3200rpm in 4th when loading up on a flat road and it was still gaining power up to and over the 8000rpm limiter on the dyno I wouldn't change to a 12cm.

Same as above, seems the search function has died with the database move?

Mine's do cams of similar spec if I remember correctly

Interesting, but then again myself (plus many other) have issues with the standard Nissan OEM rings. Also you say that piston manufactures make thin rings with too little tension but the same design works with many other types of engines. The RB26 seem to have issues but the RB25's don't. Mind you the RB25's have a "VCT drain" which is actually a sump vent to the rocker covers...

I agree that they are good for street driving moderate power and boost applications to replace stock flogged out 20+ year old OEM items. But to say they are on par with OEM or Splitfires when pushed is incorrect. Going past 20psi on my old Green Gts-t we had to start exponentially decreasing the plug gap so that the motor didn't misfire.

Not wrong there, all the drags results are showing that you would be better off with a stock turbo.

Quick video of the other night, shows the pull compared with a Evo IX. Tyre rubbing on rear guard makes a great noise

To be honest I set it at around half way on auto and didn't really adjust it. The car had a bit of under-steer but that was more likely to do with needing more front camber and too high tyres pressures. It wasn't acting like a normal 32 GTR that's for sure, no tail out and then catch the slide. Just power out of the corner, gave a lot of confidence! Looks promising and considering the times I did with lack of track time it can't be a bad thing. I'll have more of a fiddle next time I'm at the track and report back my opinion. EDIT: Went for it over Ruzic for lots of reasons, pre-load on transfer case, more adjustable, changes easily on the fly and digital sensor.

Cusco Sway bars and old Tein Flex coilovers (they are not even base adjustable) so I'm guessing they will be 8kg front and 6kg rear. Have not even bothered checking the rates. No tyre temp checks on the night, I was actually running too much pressure (34psi) and have got feathering on the tread edges because of it. Car was great under brakes, pulled up straight, quickly and easily from the 230 odd km/hr I was doing down the back straight.

Any people who track R32 GTRs want to give me some advice on front camber? We originally set it at 3.5deg but had to raise the front coilovers which lowered it to around 3deg. Didn't have time to have another alignment before the track day so it stayed there. I know it needs more but how much? I'm thinking of going to 4deg as the next step

Depends if he is running E85 or not, my 6262 went 450kw on a hubber running E85 with baby cams. When it was making that power top end it was only running 19psi. I'm sure on 98 you should go close to 400rwkw on 20-22psi with a 6262

Going to drain the catch can to start with and see how it goes, plan is to run a -6 line with one way valve around the back of the head to the rear turbo drain. If that doesn't work well enough I'll think about running from dip stick to catch can or cam covers

Drilled and tapped the block and rocker cover? Bit agricultural but I guess if it works who cares!

Simple! I had convinced myself it was going to be somehow complicated. When you said "made a big difference" I assume you mean substantially less oil coming out the breathers?

Interesting, mine has no issues on the dyno or straight line stuff. Only once it's out on the track does it start filling the catch can. I do like the idea of plumbing the dipstick to release pressure in the sump, would love some pics on how you went about that. I guess then the only pain in the ass is how to actually measure oil levels?

Only rev it to 7500 on the track already so f**k going 1000rpm less. Just ordered one of these; http://streetautoparts.com.au/index.php/aeroflow/valves/one-way-flap-valves/aeroflow-one-way-flap-valve-10an-black-af612-10blk.html Don't know if anyone has used one before but I'll let you know what it's like.

Gav Beer's comment (who runs the same system) was Collie was the worst for oil issues. I think he has been through 3-4 catch can set ups that didn't work well enough. He mentioned that this catch can was the only one that worked for him and he could literally feel the oil draining from the catch can after runs at Collie by putting his hand on the catch can. I did also do a few laps of long track with boost turned right up to 1.6bar (hit boost cut at 1.74bar about 6 times during 2 laps) so I doubt that would have helped with the blowby. Turned boost down to 1.1bar for the rest of the night but I'm not sure if that helped at all with the problem, for all I know all the oil had already gone to the catch can.

Stock motor, not built. Doing low 64/54's at Barbagallo so it's not exactly a Sunday drive. Maybe I'll just avoid Collie

The only spot available currently is the rear oil drain (the issue being getting the line from the catch can to that drain) or the other potential option is we drill and tap the sump on the drivers side. The catch can took 2L of oil after 7 laps of long track and 3 laps of short track at Barbagallo. That left my sump with just over low on the dip stick which is just enough to be on the safe side considering I have a Greddy extended sump and pickup. So even if nothing drained back during the run I could do 10 laps and still be ok, other stuff on the car is going to give up before then.

Ok a little more information, this is my set up at the moment. with a K&N filter on top of the catch can. The catch can has steel wool and baffles that almost 100% separates the oil from the air before venting, so much so that of the 2L of oil that went into the catch can about 3 drops came out the filter. It's the same set up that is used by the Western Australians that do plenty of track work at Barbs and Collie, the only difference being that they then drain back to the sump, which is why I asked the question I did. I don't want to drain back to the head, because oil in the head is causing the issue. I just want to get the oil from the catch can back in the sump (if you look closely at the second picture you can see the -10 drain at the bottom of the catch can). I don't see myself as having a oiling issue, I know this set up works and it works well, I just have an issue with not having an easy way to get the oil back to the sump.

Any chance of pics?

My catch can is already a very effective oil and air separator. I just need a way to return that oil to the sump