SimonR32

I took a pic last night with the new cam gear cover but the low light plus the flash makes the photo average at best haha

I will print one out next time I'm down at Allstar. I just did a quick comparo 3500 GTR = 100 Gts-t = 130 (-30) 4000 GTR = 175 Gts-t = 200 (-25) 4500 GTR = 310 Gts-t = 225 (+85) 5000 GTR = 460 Gts-t = 425 (+35) 5500 GTR = 520 Gts-t = 485 (+35) 6000 GTR = 560 Gts-t = 520 (+40) and so on holding about an extra 40hp top end... Not really fair because the Gts-t run started at 2000rpm while GTR ramped at 3000rpm, if all was equal I think the GTR wouldn't have given any power away at 3500-4000rpm. Plus the Green car was running a fair wack more boost.

God knows, but every reference I can find (Nismo, Sard, Billion etc) all claim that factory ones start to open at 75. Either way my new one should be cooler than it is now when cruising, which will start the engine cooler and take longer to reach "hot" temperature when at the track. As I'm not going to be doing endurance races, it suits my application perfectly

Stock starts opening at 75deg so either your gauge is wrong, your thermo is stuck open or you have a low temp one

My ECT sits at about 82 driving normally and went up to around 90 after some laps at the track. Just received a Sard 68deg thermo from Japan, hopefully will sit just over 70 in normal driving and around 80-85 when thrashing

Compared with the T88 it's noticeable haha

Power after the latest tuning, ran out of fuel top end which was expected. I'll keep it as is for now and maybe go nuts in the future

We overlayed a few GT3582R graphs and they were similar response. Remember hub dyno makes things look lazier than a roller graph and the run was only started at 3000rpm so not much time to wind up the big girl. Could make big power with another pump though, would go close to 700 if we were crazy haha The boost isn't falling over top end either, it's just we layed more boost into the mid range to beef up the torque. If we had held that boost through it would have run out of fuel (and probably make another 30-40hp)

Maybe, depends if I can be stuffed. Cams should make a bit more power, if you do cams I'll do another pump Only drove it about it 200m, gave it stick in 1st and 2nd, held on... Was good! T4 0.84 divided

Sucrogen, we don't get E85 on pump over here About 450kw at the hubs yeah, boost is on the graph 1.6bar to beef up the mid range and 1.4 bar top end. It's running E85

R32 GTR Stock Bottom End Precision 6262 T4 divided 0.84 rear Greddy Head Gasket Greddy drop in Cams E85

Tune all done, ran out of pump (fuel) top end so we stopped there but I'm fairly happy with how it went... May chuck another pump in and see how it goes but I'm happy for now PTE 6262 on stock bottom end RB26 with a Greddy 1.2mm head gasket and Greddy drop in cams

It's a GTX53R not a normal GT35R so it does flow another 70odd hp more... In saying that the results are a little eyebrow raising and also don't fit into this thread

Yes. In other news, mine should be tuned this weekend (fingers crossed). It's half tuned at the moment and goes very hard already

Just bought the wire, terminals and a billet bracket (that's meant to be for an evo) and made it up as I went along. Happy with the way it turned out, nice and neat Ran the lines for the oil catch can today!

Rear Brakes are on, battery is secured! Need a retune and wheel alignment and good to go! Did some launches today and it goes proper hard

New photos of progress...

More info here http://www.full-race.com/store/r14-awd-skyline/ets-pro-center-diff-torque-split-controller-for-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gt-r-1.html Soon fingers crossed, whenever I can get Sean to do it

Finally got it running again so I thought I would give it a quick wash. Made me much happier afterwards, really happy with how it looks

Tune on BP98?

Bit of an update, drove it for the first time last weekend with the 6262 and it's much better than the T88, only did a few pulls but looks like it's getting 1 bar at 4000rpm in 3rd and 4th which should improve a bit as well after tune and boost control is fiddled with so I'm happy so far! Got the car home and promptly started pulling it apart again Precision 6262 up and running Purchased a Full Race ETS-Pro which has digital G-sensor to replace the stock one and also a new ECU to control the whole 4wd shebang Epoxying the ETS-Pro G-sensor Fitting the Switches New Catch Can and I also ripped off the old crappy looking Carbon and stuck on some 3M stuff

Slicks and auto vs Street tyres and manual... Thus why you can't compare times and mph

Ripped out the interior and did some other things and then went to install the ETS-Pro, the length of cable for the G-sensor is way too short to run between rear parcel shelf to where I wanted to locate it (where the stock G-sensor is located) so I gave up. Geoff it might be worth making that cable longer, I think mine was well under 1m long so no real chance of either getting from behind the dash to the middle of the car or the rear parcel shelf to the middle of the car. Anyways, my plan now is as follows (can you please let me know if I have any incorrect ideas) Install the ETS-Pro in the center console and run wires through the base Remove the stock G-Sensor and cable tie the standard loom out of the way Remove the stock factory ETS control unit Epoxy the G-sensor just in front of where the factory G-sensor was located Earth the green wire Run the Black/White wires through car under carpet using dual core to connect to the same wires Blue32 used in the boot using some dual core Run the Blue/Red wires through the car under carpet using dual core to connect to the same TPS and switched 12v wires from the same pinouts that Blue32 used Run the Brown wire to the hand brake switch Run the switches to the dash and mount them Any issues with any of that? Is removing the factory G-sensor and ECU going to cause any issues apart from the dash light coming on? The ATTESSA pumps, regulator and switches don't require the factory ECU to be in and powered to work just the signal from the Black/White wires of the ETS-Pro?

Going to give this a bash tonight so thanks for the write up! I'm going to assume that the 4wd light on the dash is going to come on after the install and the globe will need pulling? Also why did you reinstall the Factory control unit?

Scott is right. T4 0.84 divided I'll check at 3000rpm if I get a chance, it seemed to be ramping fairly quickly at 3500rpm