SimonR32

haha how cool is this (people will understand if they have purchased on of these turbos)

30% lighter is great... As others have said the extra flow comes from the shank being smaller and not the actual blade diameters. BUT if there is 30% extra airflow that is going to cause less boost response and more lag for sure. What people forget to think about when looking at flow sizes is no matter how heavy the compressor wheel is, that weight is going to be nothing compared with the force required to push the extra volume of air. I want to give the billet wheel a go, but I will need some convincing that the redesigned compressor wheel is going to be better

No it's not, it has a TD06H rear wheel and not a TD06SL2 rear wheel... Nothing wrong with just oil cooling with plain bearing turbos PS. Has anyone seen these billet wheels yet? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Billet-Compressor-Wheel-7075-AL-T67-25G-TD07S-25G-Extra-30-airflow-/270897143127?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f12ba5d57#ht_2045wt_1270

Sorry my bad, from that other photo it looks like the pipe is all behind the splitter! All good

mods: S1 RB25 from R33, Kinugawa/Kando T67, 6boost, Tial 44mm MVR, Freddy plenum, Deatchwerks 720cc injectors, 044 in tank, china cooler, z32 afm, nistune, VH45 throttle body fuel: BP98 mixed with CSR E85 50% = E42 power: 410rwkw (hub dyno) or 360rwkw (Dyno Dynamics roller) oil: Castrol Edge 10-60 useage: Track days, drags and light street lifespan: Over a year so far failure: Still going strong comments: Cams soon for more power

Time to rip that manifold off and start again... You have all your waste gate gas coming from the 3 cylinders

hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha I want to see a boost graph, my guess is it's got a whole guts full at 140km/hr

Yellow line looks much more like the SS1 on a lower boost setting than a stock turbo... Might want to check that stao

still no graph!

Flash point of E100 is 13-14 degress so if the temperature is lower than that you will struggle. Brockas over here in Perth is running E100 (he gets it cheap), I don't think there is any gain over using an E85 or even an E42 mix. He hasn't had issues starting in winter but almost always garages the car so the ambient temp would be higher than 13-14degress. When he did leave it over night at the track one time it took a lot of coaxing to start in the morning. My E42 has never had an issue no matter what the temperature, pretty much fires first or second crank unless the battery is flat

I also am surprised by the lack of ID2000's, but I guess the simple normal and effective way isn't in line with the build.

By my viewing it's making 15psi at 4000rpm and turning over at 6500rpm I would be more worried about the small power band than the wavy graph

I've had the oil cooler sitting there for over 6 months... I'm just lazy

No more chiropractors bills! YAY I yanked my old seats out and looked at my abortion fix roof lining from when I originally removed the sunroof. Sits a lot lower that the standard roof lining and every time I wear a helmet I have to bend my neck just to fit in the car. Also the tint on the perspex that I replaced the sunroof frame with was starting to peel as it had got a little bit of moisture under it and looked dodgy. So I pulled out the sunroof spec roof lining and pulled the tint off the perspex, then I had to remove all of the excess tint adhesive (while getting a bit tispy off the fumes). Managed to paint the bottom of the perspex with a polyurethane based paint (with no primer so finger crossed it doesn't peel) and then sikaflexed the hell out of the seal to stop any chance of leaking. The angle grinder then had to come out to cut away the excess roof frame that the original sunroof frame attaches to. Got myself a roof lining out of a Gts-t coupe without a sunroof and a weekend of work later voila, it fits. There are a few brackets that are different which I had to use but the only real issue was the mounts for both interior lights are different. So I just fixed them to the roof lining (dodgy but effective) and you would never know it had a sunroof from the inside. Just have to clean out all the metal filing and put the seats/harness in and should have a tonne more head room at the track. May sound like a boring modification but it's going to make the car so much better to drive Next in line after that is; GTR Bonnet and Grill Oil cooler with Thermostat New cooler piping hot side and then maybe S15 rear cradle Tomei Poncams and Springs

So of the 10 people I counted using these injectors in this thread, 10 are very happy with them and have no issues... So 100% positive feedback from people who use and own them? Interesting

http://www.racingbeateurope.com/bbosch-044-filter-sock--adaptorb-1072-p.asp or similar

Both on jew mix, 50% E85 and 50% BP98 T67 is the slightly lazier 480rwhp and the GT3076R is the 436rwhp

Yeah can't see shit! But if you want to compare a GT3076R (same as HKS 3037) with the T67 see this post

8000rpm minimum on a RB26, I think that's even stock... If it's built well 9000rpm shouldn't really be an issue either! Torque Graph:

You answered your own question, because then you would have to fold and weaken the sheet, plus you would have to weld it as well!

I think he had to jet off interstate so there might be a bit of a delay. I'm sure it's also not going to be an overnight process haha

Thread title needs to be renamed, interesting old wives tale! At idle I still can't see it being 3 sec

You won't be disappointed... What RPM are you planning to run the RB26 to?

Do Nismo or Injector Dynamics cover any of the above in event of a failure under warranty period? I can find evidence on google of both of the brands failing